Compression ration 7.79:1 (69cc heads), 8.28:1 (63cc heads), 8.52:1 (60.4cc heads), 8.73:1 (58.2cc heads), 9.12:1 (54.5cc heads)

My standard catalog of American cars indicates the stock compression ratio was 9.3 for the C-Code engine. I'd like to keep it around there, but it doesn't appear I can with these pistons. I'm building a mild street engine and see no need to go to forged pistons.

Thanks,

deadhead

I'm going to have to try and tweak it when I get home. I'm at work right now.

quote:

---

Originally posted by deadhead:
I'm building a mild street engine and see no need to go to forged pistons.

---

Keep in mind the slightest bit of detonation makes hypereutectic pistons break like glass.

I wouldn't consider anything but forged, until I was just rebuilding a stock engine, then I'd use stock cast pistons.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/002522.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/003020.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/001881.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/003052.html

------------------
All Fords since 1977!

Interesting reading. Thanks.

I had not been checking these racing forums. I'm strictly a 43-year-old with a heavy foot and a pretty little Mustang. Never been racing. I'm rebuilding the 289 'cuase she's treated me so well. There's a little scoring on the cylinder walls, so an overbore will require new pistons. I can't afford KB hypereutectics--and I'm trying to keep costs down. Should I just purchase a master rebuild kit from PAW with generic cast pistons? The TRW forged pistons add $160 bucks to the cost.

Can you also post the notes from the Cylinder Head Types table you posted?

Thanks,

When you build an engine, you should always use the best parts you can afford on the internal pieces. If you have to use painted valve covers and used intakes and carb, so be it, but make your basic foundation the strongest possible. You'll thank yourself a 1000 times later.

If you guys are into early small block Fords, you should get his book. It's the best I've ever seen. {It's HUGE and very detailed!}

Here's his page:
http://www.fordsmallblock.com/

Although I agree with you 100%, the law of diminishing returns still applies, and more importantly, the best is not necessarily the most expensive.

I view these forums as a way for those who have ventured before us to impart knowledge upon the masses. For example, I was looking for advice on headers. Many of the responses told me to purchase Hookem Comp Gold or JBA Platinum Bend tubes, and make sure they were jazzercized or jet-coated or something. It's easy to recommend things when you've got $1200 to spend just on heads. I've got that much for the whole motor.

Look at it this way. I'm a Craftsman tool guy. They're not necessarily the best, but why should I spend more if Craftsman has a lifetime warranty? Guys with my budget constraints need the 80% solution--80% of the fun for 20% of the cost. I'm building a daily driver, not a race car.

Talk to me, baby. Give me the answers. All I want to know is how to build a reliable $1200 289 that performs better than a stock 289-4V. What should I do, and what shouldn't I do, and be specific.

Thanks,

quote:

---

Originally posted by deadhead:
...Hookem Comp Gold or JBA Platinum Bend tubes, and make sure they were jazzercized or jet-coated or something.

---

LOL! That is funny

$1200 is the budget, hua? You could have a basic valve job done on your heads, re-ring the pistons, have the crank micro-polished (if necessary), install new rod and main bearings and new oil pump, a snappy little cam & timing set with a decent 4bbl manifold and a GOOD carb, a pair of headers with dual exhaust, a decent ignition upgrade, you may even splurge and install shorter rear gears for more go-power and you'll have a grin from ear to ear

All this assuming you can do ALL the tear down/assembly yourself. Borrow a hoist, have buddies help removing and installing the motor, weld the exhaust up yourself, etc.

For a little more thump , get this:

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/005310.html

He was gracious enough to grant permission for me to do so.

I had the same concerns you do and that is why I took the time to contact him.

He's a great guy and has an outstanding book that should be in everyones library.

He even signed mine.

Subj: About your book
Date: 4/27/2002 9:00:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: [email protected] (Robert P. Mannel)
Sender: [email protected] (Robert P. Mannel)
To: [email protected] (INTERNET:[email protected])

You have my permission to continue using the book to help others.

Regards, Bob Mannel
------------------
My Mustang
My engine

------------------
My Mustang
My engine

quote:

---

Originally posted by mstngjoe:
Steve,
I contacted Bob some time ago, and asked his permission to scan and post pages from his book from time to time.

He was gracious enough to grant permission for me to do so.

I had the same concerns you do and that is why I took the time to contact him.

---

Very cool! Thanks!

He really is a great guy, isn't he?

------------------
All Fords since 1977!

quote:

---

Originally posted by deadhead:
Steve,

Although I agree with you 100%, the law of diminishing returns still applies, and more importantly, the best is not necessarily the most expensive.

I view these forums as a way for those who have ventured before us to impart knowledge upon the masses. For example, I was looking for advice on headers. Many of the responses told me to purchase Hookem Comp Gold or JBA Platinum Bend tubes, and make sure they were jazzercized or jet-coated or something. It's easy to recommend things when you've got $1200 to spend just on heads. I've got that much for the whole motor.

Look at it this way. I'm a Craftsman tool guy. They're not necessarily the best, but why should I spend more if Craftsman has a lifetime warranty? Guys with my budget constraints need the 80% solution--80% of the fun for 20% of the cost. I'm building a daily driver, not a race car.

Talk to me, baby. Give me the answers. All I want to know is how to build a reliable $1200 289 that performs better than a stock 289-4V. What should I do, and what shouldn't I do, and be specific.

Thanks,

deadhead

---

I totally understand your point of view. But in my experience, the most expensive way to build an engine is to use substandard part. Who cares if you saved $350 if it only lasts you 450 miles? {I've seen that more times than you'd imagine.}

The reason people recommended Hooker headers, for instance is that it's cheaper to buy $300 headers once than to buy $100 headers five times. That's what experience teaches you, and that's why this board is so good. Nobody here would would tell you to buy $300 headers if $100 headers were just as good. {Most of us old timers have thrown away their share of $100 headers in their time. The first pair of headers I installed were in 1979!}

What I was saying was to build the best engine you can afford, I didn't say to spend the maximum amount of money possible.

You said your bores are scored and you'll need to go oversize. Instead of the hypereutectic pistons, use good quality cast pistons. Summit has real good prices on overhaul kits, and I doubt you can beat the prices.

------------------
All Fords since 1977!

'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

quote:

---

Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
duah... blah blah blah...

---

If I'd read your all your posts, then I'd have known you've already determined a need to bore the block. My apologies for not reading it thoroughly.

I agree with Steve 100% in that you really do get what you pay for. Not that a low-buck rebuild can't be more fun than a barrel of monkeys, but there is an undeniable peace of mind in knowing that it'll take more abuse that you'll ever give it (and even that's precarious ). I too have thrown out $100 headers and cursed myself for buying them in the first place, and then come the "I told you so's" Goes beyond quality, those darn things dont just jump into the motor compartment on their own!

Just like Steve said, do it as good as you possibly can. It took me two full years to accumulate the parts to finish my motor, but I must say... well worth the wait

I didn't mean to sound as harsh as it sounds now that I've read it again. Apologies. Too many brewskies.

I was just using headers as an example. I keep thinking about buying home audio equipment. You can spend every dime you have, but there is some very good, inexpensive (not cheap) equipment out there. The same must be true of the high-performance automotive industry.

For example, if the concensus was I should buy XXXX-YY part number gasket set, I could shop around for the best price. Same with the bearings and rings. If you're gonna buy cast, get this manufacturer's pistons...forged go with these, etc., etc.

This engine has been around for almost 40 years, do we not yet know what works, or has advertising hype caused us to lose our way?

deadhead

I don't know what your time frame for this project is, but I may have some parts for sale in the next 60-90 days. If a friend doesn't buy my whole engine, I'll be parting it out. It's a 302 .030 over with a stock bottom end and TRW forged pistons.

This is a very solid motor. The only reason I'm pulling it is because I got bit by the stroker bug.

If you think you might be interested let me know.

I agree with your interpretations of the hypereutectic piston threads. It seems there are several people out there who didn't set their motors up with the correct ring gap. Apparently, a lot or the dirt track racers use them around here with no problems. They don't use NOS.

As with any public forum, most of the posters like to voice their negative experiences. Few people run to the computer to let everyone know things are normal and going as planned.

mstngjoe, my block and heads have already made it to the machine shop. Damn.