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  Coming soon, 1 HP per cubic inch for $1500 or less

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Author Topic:   Coming soon, 1 HP per cubic inch for $1500 or less
Moneymaker
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Posts: 19966
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 10-17-2001 04:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If there is enough interest I can do a a small block 289-302 one horsepower per cubic inch build up on this thread. I can put together a proven piece for $1500 or less so that any member can build their own. You must of course be able to do your own assmebly and R&R labor. It ain't that hard gang.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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rockafellz
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Posts: 1329
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 10-17-2001 05:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello Alex,

How about a 239-302 / 350-370HP buildup for $1500-$2300? Is it possible? If so, i'm listening.

I've seen a parts list for a 351w/400hp buildup but I kinda like the 302 a little better.

I WANT TO LEARN THE ENGINE IN AND OUT SO I'M GAME!!!!

Regards,

Erik

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65driver
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Posts: 101
From: Syracuse, NY, USA
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 10-17-2001 06:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would like to see a buildup, but I'd rather see 350 hp for between 2200-2700, if it can be done, and be a real street driven car. Or 1 horse per cube, and options to bring to 350hp at what additional cost....That would be great!!

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sprcoop
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Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-18-2001 12:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can't believe this isn't a 200 post thread yet! Let's go folks, let's take advantage! I believe I have already tasted of your wisdom Oh wise one. Let me guess. 302 bored 60 over. Comp cams 270H installed straight up. 351 Windsor heads D0 or C9 with adjustable rockers. Autolite 4100 carb. Badger pop up pistons. Headers and decent ignition of some sort. Am I close? Let's see it! I hope I'm right since I have the carb, the heads and the headers. Not to mention a worn out 302 sitting in my car.

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Candy Apple Red
66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
15" Styled Steel Wheels

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sigtauenus
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Posts: 1847
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 10-18-2001 12:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sprcoop:
351 Windsor heads D0 or C9 with adjustable rockers

I'm hoping he says 289 heads with 351 valves, because I already have them. That and a C90X intake.

If Alex says 351 heads, I'll have to sell my stuff first before buying a new set. I can hear my wife now "ANOTHER set of heads?????" LOL. She's a quick learner.

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sprcoop
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Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
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posted 10-18-2001 01:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oops, I almost forgot. Air Gap intake or comparable. I picked up a used Holley Street Dominator single plane. If it doesn't work on goes the Air Gap.

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Candy Apple Red
66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
15" Styled Steel Wheels

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Fastymz
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Posts: 12697
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-18-2001 01:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex I'm all for it.Will the info help me out on my 351w too.I'd love to hear how to do it for $1500.I want to the R&R myself.Cool when do the classes start.
Ron

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65 Coupe with a stock 1969 351w, Edelbrock RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty Hedmen hedders,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-18-2001 09:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK, we'll do this in two parts starting this afternoon. I'll start with the short block then go on to the top of the engine. We'll have to fudge a little on the carb and oil pan assuming that everyone has them already with an engine core.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Moneymaker
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posted 10-18-2001 08:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK, let's try this one more time. After researching several machine shops in my area I will assume that these prices can be duplicated or bettered by most of the USA membership. This build up is based on a garden variety 65-78 289 or 302 Windsor good condition donor engine core. You will need to completly dissassemble the engine. 1) Degrease and cam bearing bare block with cam bearings $95. 2) Bore .060 and finish hone $160. 3) micro polish carnk shaft $30. 4) Check connecting rods and fit piston pins $40. 5) Valve job $130 6) Mill heads .030 $60. 7) machine heads for screw in studs $80. Total spent at machine shop $595.
Parts: I opted for a PAW type of inexpensive rebuilder quality engine kit consisting of rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain and gears, and a gasket set. These generally contain decent quality brands such as Michigan, Muskegeon, Detroit Gasket, Melling, etc. I priced mine through my normal wholesale supplier at $155. You may pay a bit more. 2) a set of Badger .060 11 to 1 pop up cast pistons from us at $150. 3) Comp 270S cam, solid lifters, and valve springs $250. 4) Steel shim head gaskets $40. 5) Edelbrock Air gap or similar intake $220. 6) A set of screw in rocker arm studs $20. 7) a set of Headman 4 tube headers $90. total of $925 in parts. Grand total of $1520 spent to get 300 horsepower at the flywheel.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Moneymaker
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posted 10-18-2001 08:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Continuing on another post just in case my AOL buddies strike out at me again. If you already have headers you are money ahead. The same with an intake. 351W heads woould be a bonus and add about 20 to 25 HP stock. You will need a GOOD 600-750 max CFM carb. A 4100 series 1.12 Autolite is nice or a 700 CFM DP Holley is better. Anything in between is OK also except a Jimmy Carter POS carburrito. If that's all ya got then so be it! What ever electronic ignition you havbe (like a FoMoCo Duraspark) is fine. This engine will make 300 [email protected] RPM at the flywheel on a dyno guranteed if assembled correctly. Does it sound familiar? Well it should as it is basically a higher compression 289 HIPO. Add a bigger carb, tube headers, an efficiant intake, more compression, more cam and you have got 25 to 30 more HP than the 271 easy. The best part is that it will last and take lots of abuse. These babies are very forgiving if the time is taken to assemble them right. Enjoy!

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Just Jim
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From: So Cal
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posted 10-18-2001 10:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Jim     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex,sounds like a good low buck motor. Just a few questions.Will those 11-1 pistons work on pump gas,and if so how much more power would be gained going from 9-1 to 11-1?Is it safe to bore the thin wall motors .060?Thanks.

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"Just Falcon Around"
1962 Falcon 351W
1958 Morris Minor 289

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Fastymz
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From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
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posted 10-18-2001 11:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It seem like all the above should apply to my 351w.Maybe a buck or two more here or there.But will the cam and 11-1 pistons still be the same on the 351w.And will you need relieves in the pistons or do they come with it already.This a one great post something that even a low buck guy like me can use.Thanks Alex for your time.
Ron

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65 Coupe with a stock 1969 351w, Edelbrock RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty Hedmen hedders,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.

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bluestreek
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Posts: 1395
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 10-19-2001 12:16 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex,
.060 over ??? Is it worth taking a chance on the thin walls?? I have a few .030 over blocks that I was gonna use as core trade-ins on one that is bored .030....Is it safe to bore again?

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-19-2001 12:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You can go .030 if you like. The .060 over bore being too thin is an old wives tale. We go .070 over on 289/302 blocks all of the time on our race motors. The pistons have valve reliefs. There is no economical similar piston for a 351 unfortunatly. You will need a steady diet of 93 octane with careful timing adjustments. The 270S cam will allow the high compression. Loosing 2 full points will cost you 25 horsepower.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Greenstang
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Posts: 908
From: its all a fog..
Registered: May 2001

posted 10-19-2001 12:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Greenstang   Click Here to Email Greenstang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here in CAi
we get stuck 91 octane,
Which change would you make?
Less timing? Or less compression?
Thanks Alex

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Marcus
"We are coming after you. God may have mercy on you, but we won't," Sen. John McCain

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JAAZZY
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Posts: 745
From: Bay Area, CA
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posted 10-19-2001 01:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My new motor is 10.5 with no problems on the 91 Octane. That won't cost you much power.

- Jas

quote:
Originally posted by Greenstang:
Here in CAi
we get stuck 91 octane,
Which change would you make?
Less timing? Or less compression?
Thanks Alex


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sprcoop
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Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-19-2001 02:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex,
Are the steel shim head gaskets NECESSARY to handle the higher compression? Or, are they thinner to CAUSE higher compression?

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Candy Apple Red
66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
15" Styled Steel Wheels

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sprcoop
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Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
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posted 10-19-2001 02:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Another question, say you get 300HP out of your 302 at the flywheel. How do you figure the HP at the rear wheels since (I believe) that is how new cars are rated? Is there a formula or is it too individual (trasmissions, rearends, etc.) to cover that figure with a single formula?

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Candy Apple Red
66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
15" Styled Steel Wheels

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Moneymaker
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From: Lyons, IL, USA
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posted 10-19-2001 11:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I always adjust the timing on street cars by the trial and test method. Keep advancing it until it pings then begin to retard it until it stops. It should still handle 32-34 degrees total on 91 octane. The SS gaskets are not mandatory. They are worth another 1/2 point in compression. They hold up very well and are cost effective. I don't like Fel-Pro head gaskets on SBF's and the Victors are $65 a piece.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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SteveLaRiviere
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From: Saco, Maine
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posted 10-19-2001 08:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sprcoop:
Another question, say you get 300HP out of your 302 at the flywheel. How do you figure the HP at the rear wheels since (I believe) that is how new cars are rated? Is there a formula or is it too individual (trasmissions, rearends, etc.) to cover that figure with a single formula?

Figure about a 20% loss with a manual and 30% loss with an automatic.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Be American, Drive American!

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steve'66
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Posts: 6782
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
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posted 10-19-2001 08:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was looking for a good place to use post #3000, and this thread was/is the winner.

Modern h.p. is sae net h.p. As I understand it, it is at the driveshaft with accesories running and exhaust hooked up. Even so, 300 flywheel h.p. is great for $1500. 300 rwhp will cost a "bit" more.

Nice thread Alex! Keep up the good work.

SteveW

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Amherst
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Posts: 255
From: Amherst, WI, USA
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-19-2001 11:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Amherst   Click Here to Email Amherst     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here I am trying to sell my 66' and a post like this comes up!! Oh the agony!! Are you trying to talk me down from the ledge?? Very cool thread Alex. You are an inspiration to us all..... Do you suggest the Ford shop manual as a guide to putting the motor back together?? Any other book you would recommend that gives the down and dirty as to what goes where? I don't mean the big stuff (we all know the cam goes on the bottom of the motor ) just the helpful hints on what type of assembly lube to use, torque sequence, etc. etc.

[This message has been edited by Amherst (edited 10-19-2001).]

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SteveLaRiviere
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posted 10-20-2001 11:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Amherst:
(we all know the cam goes on the bottom of the motor )

Err, that's the crankshaft.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Proud to be an Infidel!

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-20-2001 02:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Any Chiltons Mustang manual or Chiltons motor manual is good. Better yet would be one of the Jim Osborn shop mauals available from M&M. Also thanks Steve for the compliment.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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sprcoop
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From: Tucson, AZ usa
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posted 10-20-2001 02:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was checking the specs on the 270S and noticed the next step up is the 282S. It appeared to have almost 1/3" more lift and obviously more duration. The suggested components to go with it (springs, rockers etc.) were the same as the 270S.

Would it not be wise to step up to the 282S due to possible mechanical failures or would it be just a rougher idle, different power band and more horsepower?

Also, I'm seriously looking at tbe roller rockers suggested by Comp Cams to go with the 270S or 282S. They are only about $147.00 at Summit.

[This message has been edited by sprcoop (edited 10-20-2001).]

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sigtauenus
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Posts: 1847
From: Beaufort, SC
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posted 10-20-2001 08:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex, how do you fit in the variable of combustion chamber size? ie, 289, 302, 302-4v heads, and 351 heads all have different combustion chamber volumes that will affect the compression. What heads (and/or combustion chamber volume) are those 11 to 1 Badger pistons designed to be used for? Or, better phrased, what heads will give you 11 to 1 compression with those pistons.

I assume the formula posted above is based on 11:1 compression for the HP, which is why I ask.

[This message has been edited by sigtauenus (edited 04-01-2002).]

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-20-2001 11:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't actually. The 48 cc heads with SS gaskets will garner closer to 12 to 1 and the 53's will be closer to 11 to 1 and the later model ones will be around 10 to 1. Remember that we are cutting the heads also. Smaller chamber heads will get closer to 320 HP. Regardless, the motors will make AT LEAST 300 HP. The 282 cam is a bit TOO radical for a daily driver as far as I'm concerned. Roller rockers are nice, but they just didn't fit into my buget. The sky is the limit as far as options are concerned. This is a tried and true combo with GUARANTEED results. NO BRAG, JUST FACT!

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Moneymaker
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posted 10-21-2001 12:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Engine manual has ALL of the 6 and 8 cylinder specifications.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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SteveLaRiviere
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posted 10-21-2001 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I always thought the Tom Monroe book, "How to Rebuild your small block Ford" was one of the best engine assembly books ever written.

Buy it from M&M and help your favorite web site! {We get 60 cents, but every bit helps! }

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0912656891/stevelarivierepe/104-4349104-4984702

You should also have the Ford shop manual set for your car.

The shop manuals gives you the specs, the Tom Monroe book give you the step-by-step.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Proud to be an Infidel!

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-22-2001 12:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tom Monroe book is good also.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Moneymaker
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posted 10-25-2001 01:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's hard to find a dedicated 351W FoMoCo piston that you can buy for $200 or less a set.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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sigtauenus
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Posts: 1847
From: Beaufort, SC
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posted 10-25-2001 01:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
I'll do the tool list first.


Alex, can your tool list post include the cam wheel and how to use it to degree the cam?

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steve'66
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From: Sonoma,CA,USA
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posted 10-25-2001 01:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
Alex, can your tool list post include the cam wheel and how to use it to degree the cam?

Sam,

The destructions come with most degree wheel kits. Plus CompCams catalog has good instructions too,

SteveW

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-25-2001 03:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm still working on pistons and some other parts. The tool list will be up tonight. Steve is correct, Comp Cams has an excellent "how to degree your can" instruction in their cataloge.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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RonnieT
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Posts: 692
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
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posted 10-25-2001 09:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
For those of you that do not have a Comp Cams Catalog you can go to their web site and look at the online catalog. Pages 22 and 23 have the degreeing instructions, but pages 17 - 25 have a lot of good information.


http://www.camhelp.com/catalog/

Went back to thier site and noticed you cannot download, only online viewing.
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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

[This message has been edited by RonnieT (edited 10-25-2001).]

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sigtauenus
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From: Beaufort, SC
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posted 10-25-2001 09:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
BTW, Comp Cams doesn't have any prices in their catalog. Where is a good place to buy their parts?

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RonnieT
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From: Port Allen, La. 70767
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posted 10-25-2001 09:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sig,

Summit is a good place to order Comp Cams from. If you find the "K" kit number you can search the Summit site and find the price. Their code for Comp Cams is "CCA", so when you find the Comp number just put CCA in front of it and it will pull up the price. Example Comp # K-31-246-3 you would put in CCA-31-246-3.

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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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sprcoop
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Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-25-2001 10:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
RonnieT,
Anything you can view you can download. Open the page that has the instructions. Right click and click "save as". Save as a jpeg and then when you have it on your hard drive you can open it with IE or whatever program understands *.jpg files.

[This message has been edited by sprcoop (edited 10-25-2001).]

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-26-2001 07:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Moneymaker Racing is the "best" place to buy Comp products.

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Alex Denysenko
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SteveLaRiviere
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posted 10-26-2001 08:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
Moneymaker Racing is the "best" place to buy Comp products.

That reminds me, I need to get some push rods from you. You have an order in your email.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Recycle --- Restore a Classic Ford!

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RonnieT
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Posts: 692
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-26-2001 11:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
sprcoop,

I know about "save as", but from the Comp Cams site you would have to save each page individually, and there is a lot of pages in thier catalog.

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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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Moneymaker
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From: Lyons, IL, USA
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posted 10-27-2001 12:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Maybe someone can just cut and paste the page for us here on M&M.
I think that I have found an acceptable piston for the 351W build up and now I have to get some local pricing for pin fitting and rod C to Cing. We have to enlarge the small end of the rod.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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CD
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From: New Castle, IN
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 10-27-2001 06:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CD   Click Here to Email CD     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oh thanks now I have something else to add to need to do list, like I wasn't broke enough.

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1966,Hardtop, 289 2v. Stock and rusty... For Now!!!

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Fastymz
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From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
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posted 10-27-2001 07:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex what do you think of the rebuild kit from Summit racing for the 351w.

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65 Coupe with a 351w, RPM intake,carter625,shorty hedders,2.5 exhaust,Flowmasters,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
MEM#1240

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sprcoop
Gearhead

Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-27-2001 10:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve,
I hate to beat a dead horse, but... I can see the difference in power to the wheels between the manual and auto tranny. However, the 20% 30% formula would suggest the more horsepower you have the more gets lost. Is that true? On a manual tranny it's 40hp for a 200hp motor but 80hp on a 400hp motor. Sorry, but this has been bugging me.

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Candy Apple Red
66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
15" Styled Steel Wheels

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-28-2001 11:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll go and look at the SUmmit 351W kit and comment. As far as RW HP loss, depending on the efficiance or the drivetrain there will be more loss if the is more horsepower. It's physics.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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ccode67
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Posts: 1749
From: douglasville,ga,usa
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 10-31-2001 09:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ccode67   Click Here to Email ccode67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex, will there be a significant increase in power if I use Edelbrock heads?
351W, hopefully standard bore, Comp 270 cam.

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Moneymaker
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posted 12-07-2001 03:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The SUmmit 351 kit is pretty good for the money.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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fordfan
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Posts: 2992
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 12-09-2001 03:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for fordfan   Click Here to Email fordfan     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My answer for my 351W for my '68 Coupe.... The coast high performance 427 Stroker Kit (p.s: theres a buildup article on the 427W stroker in the current Mustangs and Fords.)

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 1847
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 04-01-2002 02:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
These babies are very forgiving if the time is taken to assemble them right.

Alex, how do you assemble and engine wrong?

I know it sounds like a dumb question, but what are common mistakes people make that prompted the quoted statment?

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V8 Thumper
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Posts: 3654
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 08-17-2002 06:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ford rated the 'A' code 289 at 215 hp I believe, GT dual exhaust is said to be worth another 10 hp. I'd guess that's flywheel hp, subtract 20% for driveline, and you're looking at 180 at the tires

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John Z
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From: Morgantown, WV
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posted 08-17-2002 11:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z   Click Here to Email John Z     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No such luck. Prior to ~71 the engine was rated at the flywheel without "accessories" like an alternator.

[This message has been edited by John Z (edited 08-17-2002).]

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V8 Thumper
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From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
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posted 08-19-2002 08:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66MustangGTCoupe289:
289 ENGINE HAD 225 HP AND 305 FT-LB



'A'... 225
'K'... 271
Shelby prepped 'K' motor... 306

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Moneymaker
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posted 08-20-2002 01:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
289's by the factory numbers.

C code 2 v = 200 HP
D code 4v low compression = 210 HP
A code 4v high compression = 225 HP
K code HIPO = 271 HP
Shelby HIPO + high rise aluminum intake, 715 CFM Holley, and Headers = 306 HP

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

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662+2
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From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jan 2003

posted 01-12-2003 04:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 662+2   Click Here to Email 662+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Nice job on this post Moneymaker keep up the good work I love this site it gives me all the answers that I can not find in this chevy town I live in.

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Moneymaker
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posted 01-15-2003 05:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

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Comet351
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Posts: 19
From: Hemet, Calif.
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-24-2003 01:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Comet351   Click Here to Email Comet351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have decided to put this post to good use!

Im going to build from scratch my first engine.

The engine i am going to use is an 1965 A-Code 289

Thanks Alex..............

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GTRocks
Gearhead

Posts: 2510
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99

posted 06-24-2003 05:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GTRocks   Click Here to Email GTRocks     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
289's by the factory numbers.

C code 2 v = 200 HP
D code 4v low compression = 210 HP
A code 4v high compression = 225 HP
K code HIPO = 271 HP
Shelby HIPO + high rise aluminum intake, 715 CFM Holley, and Headers = 306 HP


So if you took a C code and put a 4v on it, would you have about 210, or 225?

I do so like this thread!!

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67Stangboy
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Posts: 71
From: Lafayette, Indiana
Registered: Jul 99

posted 06-27-2003 07:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67Stangboy   Click Here to Email 67Stangboy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think this thread should be sent to the archives folder. I would hate to lose all this great information.

Kit

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67 Coupe
I-6, 3sp
289 and T-5 on the way

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