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  Can some tell me about Block fill

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Author Topic:   Can some tell me about Block fill
Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 05-15-2003 06:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I really don't know what it is,and why some of you use it.
How do you put it in the block.

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SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 6061
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 05-15-2003 06:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
I really don't know what it is,and why some of you use it.
How do you put it in the block.


Great question Ron, I was also wondering about it and how it works as well as the application methods and pros & cons of using it.

JOHN

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65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK

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MrXerox
Gearhead

Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 05-15-2003 08:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MrXerox   Click Here to Email MrXerox     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Do a search on the site for "Hardblock" there should be plenty of threads to browse through.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 05-15-2003 08:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey John read these.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/000677.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/000853.html

Mr Xerox thanks I didn't know the name of it.

Now doesn't the block lower the amount of water that will flow in the motor.

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SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 05-15-2003).]

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Kellxr7
Gearhead

Posts: 679
From: Canada
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 05-15-2003 08:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kellxr7   Click Here to Email Kellxr7     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Do you have to do a major upgrade to your cooling system after putting this hard block in?

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 05-15-2003 09:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
From what I've read no you dont.But you do need an oil cooler.

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SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2694
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 05-15-2003 09:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hardblok will help support the cylinders and keep them round under severe stess. It will drastically improve ring seal under severe conditions, and it's extra mass will help dampen major vibrations.

I would fill it to the bottom of the water pump holes to allow for adequate cooling.

I filled mine with HardBlok, as this was the brand that was overwhelmingly recommended over any other... But, I haven't got to run it yet.

Fill the block BEFORE machine work is done. The Moroso brand is supposed to expand as it cures, and will make the cylinders tight. I have heard of people using the HardBlok product AFTER machine work was done without incident, but wouldn't recommend that if it can be avoided.

You do ONE bank at a time. It's a good idea to torque the mains and use a level to get the engine completely level front to back and side to side.

You then mix it up and pour it in. A mixer attached to a drill will make the mixing more effective and faster, and give you more 'pour' time before it starts to set up. An old alternator fan (or even a straight bar) welded to a rod works great for this.

Be aware that each bank will take DIFFERENT amounts of mix to fill.

When finished filling, I used an air hammer set on LOW to help with settling. I welded a fairly thick 1" square piece of steel to the end of one of the chisels to act as my 'blunt' tip. This makes the job go WAY easier. Settling takes place quickly and efficiently.

After it was all settled, I installed a head (and gasket) and let it cure for 24hrs before doing the other side. The head will simulate the loads on the bore when the engine is assembled. (same principle as 'torque plate' boring/honing)

The directions in the HardBlok containor are good, and fairly easy to follow.

If you have a GOOD scale (for reading low weights of less than 10lbs) the 'tall fill' containor is twice as big and will fill two blocks. (comes with two large bags) It's just important to weigh the filler out accurately to the 1/4 pound. The 'half fill' Hardblok is already pre-measured for half filling. (two small bags)

I also cleaned out the water jackets before beginning by filling them with muriatic acid. I let the un-diluted acid sit in there for a couple minutes in each bank before dumping it out and rinsing GOOD with water. It will eat ALL the rust out of the jackets and give a great surface for the Hardblok to bond to. Just be careful. When the acid hits a concrete driveway, it produces a nasty 'acid fog'. As a by product, the driveway will have one VERY clean spot. Wear gloves and eye protection, and try to avoid getting the acid on your clothes. Muriatic acid is found in hardware stores, and is normally used to lower the pH in swimming pools and clean bricks and masonry. (it's usually diluted for this)

Good Luck!

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 6061
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 05-15-2003 09:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Great info guys, thanks for the effort on this one. Now I know, I really wish I would have done this to my 289 as it is bored .060 over and cooling has been a problem.

JOHN

------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-15-2003 11:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
John, I wouldnt recommend it for a street gas burning motor. You might get away with a half fill, but you need that water capacity for long cruises. RACE only and mild Street serious strip cars are O.K. I see some guys at the track running gas burners who say they wished they would not have poured it so deep in their motor. Alky motors need heat to run and they are naturally cool so block filling is not an issue with MOST alky cars.
JS

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 05-16-2003 01:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike thanks for the help.

------------------
SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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