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Author Topic:   Hate to be a pest but........

Posts: 116
From: Lancaster, CA
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 02-22-2003 06:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for afret   Click Here to Email afret     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
technology and tech inspections have passed me by. Used to be the tech inspector will just make sure the battery in the trunk wouldn't move when he wiggled it and only really quick cars like Melissa's needed a battery cut off switch. Now I guess I better get a box and switch. I sure don't want to have to make a hole in the back of my Stang. Where do you guys place the switch and which battery box do you guys recommend? Is the Summit switch OK? The tech inspectors never said anything about wheel stud length for the front wheel but I suppose I need to get longer studs in the front. Already done in the back. The only front ones for discs seem to be by ARP. They cost about $112 for 10. That's 5X more than the other studs. Must be low volume. Is that what people are using? Or do I have to worry about the front? I need to pull the front discs anyway to repack the bearings and change the seals. Who knows what the grease looks like after sitting so long.....On a 68 Torino we had some custom studs made and it sure didn't cost that much. Who said there is no inflation. Maybe, if I need to get the studs, I'll just take it off the Torino. Boy, it sure was a lot simpler in the 70's. But a lot less safer it seems. Thanks again.

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Posts: 11429
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-22-2003 06:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

The post above is about the Battery kill switch.
I used the Summit model they said it is the same as the moroso unit but it costs less.

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

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Posts: 116
From: Lancaster, CA
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 02-22-2003 07:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for afret   Click Here to Email afret     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Scoop. Will check it out.

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Rory McNeil

Posts: 1210
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-23-2003 04:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil   Click Here to Email Rory McNeil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don`t know if the rotor holes are the same size on your application or not, but when I switched my FE Fairmont to 5 lug by using Ranger PU rotors, I used the Moroso studs for a GM application. The knurl was the correct size for my Fords rotors, they pressed in nicely, & have never come loose. Although they are only 7/16" instead of the normal 1/2" diameter, my nose heavy car has hundreds of 2-3 foot wheelstands (and landings),over the years, without any concerns of using the smaller studs.

78 Fairmont 428 4 speed [email protected]
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed [email protected]
85 Mustang NHRA Stocker under construction, 302 5 speed
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd

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Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-23-2003 11:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Moroso studs are fine.

Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
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