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Author Topic:   Tuning a double pumper
cpmaverick
Forum Kahuna

Posts: 462
From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-03-2000 12:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, I've got a small double pumper (600 CFM) on my Maverick, I plan on draggin it this Friday and would like to make some carb changes (hopefully for the better)

My combo is below,, I have ported stock heads & a weiand Stealth intake (pulls to 6800).

What jet sizes & shooter sizes would be best, or is a 600 DP about right out of the box? Seems to drive pretty well (except for traction)

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-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs
www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com

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Moneymaker
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From:Lyons, IL, USA
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posted 10-03-2000 11:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Charlie, with open headers (why would anyone want to drag race with them closed?) I would recomend a 4.5 power valve and 64 jets in the primaries. A 35 disscharge nozzel and a pink cam should get you in the right direction also. For the secondaries I would start with 72 jets and a 31 disscharge nozzel. I would not make these modifications until after I made a pass or two to get a baseline and take a spark plug reading. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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Posts: 462
From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-03-2000 01:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Alex!
Those are the specifics I was looking for!
I'll leave it stock at first, do a plug check like you said.

Why a 4.5 power valve? I was under the impression that you only stepped down a power valve if your vacuum was too low to support a 6.5. What advantage will the 4.5 give me?

Thanks again. PS: of COURSE the headers 'll be open

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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-04-2000 09:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex, another question...

The pink cam... Is it the really light pink one? There are about 3 shades of red..

Thanks Charlie

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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-04-2000 09:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

There! You can point it out to me..

[This message has been edited by cpmaverick (edited 10-04-2000).]

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Moneymaker
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From:Lyons, IL, USA
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posted 10-05-2000 12:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The "PINK" pink one Charlie. The 4.5 power valve will keep it clean at idle and while brake torquing during the launch. Your vacuum will go up when you brake torque the car. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-05-2000 10:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Again, Thanks and Again, one more question

Educate me about brake torqueing. Remember I have a stickshift. This will be only my second trip to the track, so I'm a novice.

The pinkpink one has 3 holes... Is that something I should just experiment with?

I can't wait until Friday, my cars back together and running better than ever.

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-05-2000 10:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OOPS! I thought that you had an automatic Charlie. I had forgotten that you put a top loader in it. Scratch the brake torquing part. The 4.5 power valve is still the way to go as it will keep the motor cleaner and not enrichen until WOT. Install the pink cam using the hole that will give you the longest pump shot duration. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
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posted 10-05-2000 12:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Cool, Thanks.

I thought brake torqueing was an auto thing... but hey, I'm new to this

According to Holley's website, any shooter 37 or above requires a 50cc accel pump conversion... your (or anybodys) thoughts?

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-05-2000 02:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
35 or 37 shooters will work with a 30cc pump. I do it all of the time and have been for about 20 some odd years. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-05-2000 02:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Great.

I don't have any more questions, YET!

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perk
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From:Staley,nc
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 10-06-2000 08:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for perk   Click Here to Email perk     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex,I've got 25 + 37 squirters.I just put the 37's in primarys and 40's in rear. I believe someone drilled out the 37's because they look to be squirting a bigger shot.
I was wondering why you recomend a smaller shooter on the secoundarys,it just seems it would require something bigger.Could you enlighten me on this,Oh Great Wise One!!
THanks and thanks and thanks....perk

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-06-2000 11:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The primaries open up first and take in the greatest initial "gulp" of air. They seem to need more fuel shot on most V-8 engines. The secondary transition does not require as much becuase vacuum is already begining to pull fuel through the boosters. Alex

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Just Jim
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From:So Cal
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 10-09-2000 10:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Jim     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Charlie,Just curious on how you did last Friday with all the input you got on the carb jetting.Hope you didn't blow the Maverick up!
Jim

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"Just Falcon Around"
1962 Falcon 351W
1958 Morris Minor 289

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cpmaverick
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Posts: 462
From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-10-2000 11:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Just Jim:
Hope you didn't blow the Maverick up!
Jim

Yeah, actually I did.
Blew a head gasket. I only got one run in, before I tried any tuning and before I opened up the headers

14.00 @ 101.25

Not bad, I had a 2.3 60' time.


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Moneymaker
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posted 10-10-2000 12:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Bummer Charlie ! What brand of head gasket do you use and what do you torque the bolts down to? Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-10-2000 12:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I used new ARP bolts, Fel Pro 1101-1 head gaskets, torqued the heads to 75 ft/lbs, then torqued the tops to 85 (as per Fel-pro's instructions). I think I must hae scratched a gaskt or something... I guess I'll find out. I talked to my head guy and he said to use ARP's torque specs this time so I guess I will...

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-10-2000 12:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I always torque the ARP bolts to 85 lbs. on the short and 95 lbs. on the long. I have been doing it this way for over 10 years and have not had a head gasket failure since. I also do not use Fel-Pro head gaskets in full race applications anymore either. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-10-2000 01:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I take it you run 1/2" bolts though?

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-10-2000 02:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes I use 1/2 inch bolts on some of MM's engines. I torque those to 95 lbs. and 105 lbs. The spec that I gave is the one that I use on all ARP 7/16ths bolts though Charlie. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Just Jim
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From:So Cal
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posted 10-10-2000 01:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Jim     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Charlie,sorry to hear you blew a gasket,I was hoping you had a good trip to the track.For years,I have used Fel Pro gaskets that come with the 'rebuilder'gasket sets and haven't had any trouble.The last was a Fel Pro 8548PT2 which I just used on the 289.

Alex,what brand head gaskets do you recommend?Maybe my low compression 9.5 to 1 motors get away with the Fel Pros?

------------------
"Just Falcon Around"
1962 Falcon 351W
1958 Morris Minor 289

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-11-2000 11:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Victor "Reintz". They are German made and were developed for the Boss 302 Trams Am program. Very expensive, not reuseable like the Fel-Pro's, but infalable. Alex P.S. I still use and recomend Fel Pro products. I just will not use their head gaskets (any of them) on any FoMoCo engine that see's the other side of 6000 RPM. I have blown too many of them and do not need the practice.

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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Ryan Wilke
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Posts: 46
From:Stanton, MI
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-11-2000 08:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex,
Earlier in this thread you suggested Charlie use larger discharge nozzles, moving up to 35 in the primary and up to 31 in the 2ndaries... would you also recommend that Charlie should use a hollow screw rather than the solid screw? Curiously, Ryan

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-11-2000 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The hollow screws have really never shown me much Ryan and Charlie. I have used them becuase Holley recomended them, but in back to back tests, saw no improvement in ET or response with them. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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cpmaverick
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From:Auburn, AL.. If you ever stop by check out my daily driver Maverick
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 10-11-2000 09:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Are the Victor gaskets also known as 'Nitroseal' Alex?

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Moneymaker
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posted 10-11-2000 10:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No Charlie. I believe that the Nitroseal is a Mr. Gasket brand. Alsthough they may be repackaged Victors as Mr. Gasket does a lot of that and make very few of their own gaskets. Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
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