posted 08-18-2000 12:07 AM               

We're running the bfg d/r's at 16 psi and I did a dry line lock burn out (in 1'st gear) not a smokey one, but just to clean 'em off. We've also tried just "dry hopping 'em but it doesn't matter! They are like a regular car trying to get going on ice

Whatta you think M/T et streets or Hoosier quick times?

posted 08-18-2000 10:50 AM               

Thanks for the thought, yes both sway bars are removed. 90-10 front shocks are not an option for my kid's street car. If the rear tires would bite, all would be good.

Eddie,

As soon as I find some "cheater" slicks, I'll ship them to you! BTW that run was with me driving, Melissa's turn next time, and she's about 100 pounds lighter than me.

SteveW

posted 08-18-2000 12:33 PM            

Get some M/T ET street tires or Hoosiers.I run 15lbs in the 10.50X26 ET's on the Falcon.They are only about 8.5 inches tread width,but they are worlds better than those BFG'S.I don't know how long they last ,as I don't drive the car much,however mine are 2 plus years old and still have plenty of life yet.

Cal Tracks bars will work wonders on the rear.I made my own clones for about $50,as the price of real ones was too steep for me.With no front sway bar,90/10 shocks,Cal TrakClones and the M/T's, the Falcon lifts the front tires about 2-3 inches with 1.70 60 foots.(on a good track)

Stay cool,
Jim

posted 08-18-2000 01:08 PM               

------------------
Marcus
68 Mustang giggling and flying. New combo coming, shooting for low low 11's

posted 08-18-2000 04:19 PM               

I'll be away this w/e but if anyone has any ideas please let me know! Oh, the shocks are koni gas shocks all around, 50/50 valving. CU guys Monday

posted 08-19-2000 11:58 AM               

Get rid of the gas shocks, they are so wrong for what your trying to do, front and rear. I know there are some shocks on the market that have external adjustments...HAL makes one and I think AVO does also. Competition Engeneering shocks are adjustable also but I think they need to be removed from the car to adjust them....not sure though. I've had the same set of Race Country shocks (90/10) on the front of the Comet for almost 15 years now...lol...I've said a hundred times that I'm gonna get a good set of shocks but just haven't yet. I think if I don't blow it up again I might

Butcher

posted 09-01-2000 12:33 PM               

Melissa bought a pair of M/T et streets 10.50-26-15, and a pair of C&E shocks for the front. Eddie the bfg d/r's are on their way to PA. I'll let you know next week how it works out.

posted 09-07-2000 11:08 PM               

here's the latest. The 60'ers are down to 2.08s but we can't get a decent line lock burn out. I raised one traction bar snubber and lowered the other and it still makes a hard left turn during the "burnout". So I reversed the snubbers, and it still makes a hard left turn. Then I had Melissa hold the brake peddle down and both front brakes are on equally. Then I had her do the line lock and SURPRISE only the left tire is on on the linelock! We've got a weekend race tommorrow and we can run open headers etc. but until we get this straightened out we can't really heat up the M/Ts and make 'em really sticky. My question is what is the correct position for the snubbers? Drivers side higher or lower than the passengers? Can we get away with a second gear burnout of the water box w/o the linelock this w/e?

As far as et for all those interested Melissa ran consistent 13.20s with a 2.08 60'. My best was a 13.1? with a 2.2? 60', she granny shifts, but at least she's consistent and easy on the tranny! I really think I could pull a 12, but it's her car and she'll have to do it not me Maybe this weekend! BTW since we get to open up the headers, I was wondering if this means I should rejet??? Any ideas, should it matter?

Thanks for everyones help!!

posted 09-08-2000 11:44 AM               

As far as the re-jetting goes it depends. If your AF ratio was close or right on before it will probably be a little lean, and thats never good. You might want to up your secondary jets one size just for safety.

posted 09-08-2000 11:58 AM               

I ran the two front lines from the distribution block to a tee at the solenoid, then a tee out of the solenoid to the two front brakes.

I'm picking up a dual m/c for a '67 and installing it today. That should cure the line lock problem, and be safer too.

On the traction bars it is 1/4 inch higher for the passenger side snubber, right?

SteveW

posted 09-08-2000 09:25 PM               

The line loc if fixed with new dual m/c and it is sweet! The bars are set up w/ 3/8 gap on left side and no gap on right, we're off to the races. We'll let y'all know how it went on monday, and anyone from around here is welcome to come by and say Hi, we'll be at Sears Point, Melissa will be competing in the GoodGuys Nostalgia drags (there's also a car show) only 1973 and older cars are allowed to enter, so there won't be any rice, there will be a lotof the old A-fuel dragsters too (running 6.0s). We'll be in the pits, and you can find a pic of the car on this site. Thanks again everyone, hello 12's (maybe)

posted 09-11-2000 12:39 PM            

I won't go to the Good Guys events for the reasons you stated.They don't care about the little guys,and 4 runs all weekend is not enough to justify the entry cost and travel expense.I guess for a spectator the events might be OK,but not if you want to race.

How did the line lock work?Must have been better, judging by the 60ft.

posted 09-11-2000 01:39 PM               

The line lock worked great, the car held straight during second gear burnouts @ 3,000-4,000 rpms.

Our freind's '67 428 cj 4 speed Mustang ran his new best time at this event too. He went 12.44 @ 111.23 mph on slicks (1 mph faster than the '66) We had "good air", and a well prepped track.

posted 09-14-2000 02:25 AM               

I still think those 60ft times could be a whole bunch better...in the 1.7 range.

4 runs at a big event?? and a well prepped track?? and complaining??

sheesh we should all be so lucky!
we seldom get more than 2 time trials :-|

posted 09-19-2000 09:29 PM               

Just installed the Rancho 9204's in the rear. Wow! When they're set on 9, you can't budge the rear, and the front moves fairly easy (still set on 60/40) We'll try this tomorrow at the track, and let you know what happens. It's gonna be 100 degrees tomorrow, so I don't expect any records, but we can still compare 60'ers. Next week she's entered in the Summit e.t. series at Sears Point, a 4 day event, so I'll change the front shocks for that.

posted 09-21-2000 01:16 AM               

The rear shocks helped! We started at the firmest setting and even though it was 90+ degrees the 60'er was 1.934, not bad, but the rear of the car was bouncing like a slow wheel hop. Loading and unloading the suspension, kinda weird So we tried a softer setting and it still did it, but the 60'ers did get down to a 1.922, Keep in mind this is a poorly prepped "test and tune track" The best she ran was a 12.91 @ 106.82 mph in the heat and with the headers corked up. Next week we'll adjust the front shocks, and play with the jetting. I'll post the results for anyone interested. Thanks again, and if anyone has a sugestion, please post it! And Thanks Butcher for the help and comradiere tonight

posted 09-21-2000 10:20 AM               

First time runs were about 3:30 - 5:00, later (cooler) runs were during eliminations and she sandbags.
The suspension definately hooks better, we'll have to set the fronts to 90-10 and see if we can keep the rear from unloading after it hooks. Anyone have dimensions/plans for Cal-Trac bars? (Jim?)

posted 09-21-2000 07:59 PM               

Thanks for the tips I'll try it next week The Ranchos 9000's were $66ea from 4 wheel parts wholesalers (free freight)

Marcus,

Thanks for the link, I already have the bars and the spring perch from a set of shelby type bars. Now I need details of the front peice. I know Jim made some knockoffs... I think I'll e-mail him Well maybe not, Jim doesn't have an e-mail icon... Paging Just Jim - Just Jim, Come in please

SteveW

posted 09-21-2000 08:02 PM               

Anyone?

Bueller?

posted 09-21-2000 08:19 PM            

You will really like the way Cal Tracs type bars work.I will send you an e mail after I find the info.If you have the old under rider bar mounts which attach under the rear spring mounts using the u bolts you are on your way.Watch your mail.

Jim

posted 10-06-2000 05:23 PM               

Thanks!!

posted 10-08-2000 02:41 PM               

That's what dreams are made of (a '66 that just needs engine work) You're welcome to join us anytime. We'll be there this Weds night again.

posted 10-08-2000 09:00 PM               

E-mail me with your address (or fax number) and I'll send you copies of the drawings next week. I haven't built them yet, it will be a winter project for us. Good luck,

posted 10-11-2000 05:52 PM               

Ryan, It's [email protected]

Alex, You bet! I'll be back in the office tommorow and will fax them in the morning

Tim, We haven't had to be towed yet in 50+ trips. Knock on wood! I probably shouldn't tempt fate. LOL

posted 10-11-2000 06:15 PM            

Alex,
Thanks in advance for sending the fax !

'til later gents,,, Ryan

posted 10-15-2000 08:01 PM               

thanks for the drawings, they are very informative. I just have a few questions. Mostly the questions deal with the measurments. What is the distance between the front spring hole and the spring stop hole? And the distance between the front spring hole and the two link holes on the front plate. The third is the length, smallest and largest, for the link rod. What is the diameter of the spring stop bushing. The rest looks pretty straight forwad but I would assume that these measurments are the most important part.