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  Wheel hop solutions?

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Author Topic:   Wheel hop solutions?
460-67Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-16-2002 10:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 460-67Stang   Click Here to Email 460-67Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well after 500 miles of break in I finally felt comfortable letting the 472 rip. Man, there's nothing like a big block letting loose on a set of Detroit Locker fused 50 series tires!

Problem is after about 2 feet af contact I got a LOT of wheel hop. The evidence patch is solid for about two feet and then you can see where the tires jumped up and down on the pavement. I'm running very stiff leaf springs and KYB gas shocks.

What type of traction control would you recommend? I'm not interested in a 4 link due to the amount of modification to the car that would require. I would consider ladder bars or some other simliar traction control device. And I'd like to not have a fear of speedbumps due to low hanging gear. What works?

Does pinion angle figure into this at all?

Thanks!
Brian

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472ci in a '67 Coupe
472ci-67mustang.com http://www.geocities.com/slariviere/460-67Stang.html
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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6150
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-16-2002 11:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You've got to control axle wrapup and keep your pinion angle steady to stop wheelhop. The cheapest and easiest way is with traction bars. The best (arguably) for a street/strip car is CalTrack bars or the C/E slide a link bars. Ladder bars aren't practical on the street, and you've already ruled out a 4 link.

SteveW

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johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 4088
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 04-16-2002 12:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have to agree with Steve , it seems that you have not given yourself alot of choice, go with the traction bars , and , hope that you don,t hop yourself into a broken drive shaft. Did that in a 68 fastback I had a few years back.

JOHN

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65 2+2 FASTBACK
68 COUPE
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK

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68stang351
Gearhead

Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-16-2002 04:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68stang351   Click Here to Email 68stang351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
WHOOOAAA!!!! That is seriously one of the meanest, sharpest looking 67's I've ever seen. NICE CAR!!!! I can dream about my car being painted one day. Now I'm stuck on either Grabber Blue or Silversmoke Grey.

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Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!

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wvcat
Gearhead

Posts: 210
From: New Cumberland,WV
Registered: May 2001

posted 04-16-2002 11:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wvcat   Click Here to Email wvcat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was having wheel hop problems and put south side machine lift bars on, big improvement.
John
wvcat

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Thanks
John
(wvcat)
http://www.geocities.com/wvxr7cougar/wvcat_01.html?989286238390

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RICKS
Gearhead

Posts: 243
From: Ocala, FL
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 04-17-2002 09:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RICKS   Click Here to Email RICKS     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you haven't already done it, find a set of big block staggered shock brackets, and reconfigure your shocks to staggered. It's at least worth a shot before strapping traction bars underneath, and would be an improvement still more if you also added the bars. I've never owned a big block car that wheel hopped, but when I stab my fairly healthy 351W Mach (with standard shock configuration) it bounces the fillings out of my teeth. Conversely every 4-speed big block car I've owned with the shocks staggered has been smooth and straight, no hop, even when you're spinning the holy bejeezus out of your tires. It's been my observation that this makes a huge difference, and also seems to do a better job of planting both tires equally so as to not be a "ditch seeker" when you put it to the wood. Not that I'm any chassis engineer, I've just had alot of seat time in 428 and 429 4-speed cars in which the shock setup is the only significant difference.

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460-67Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-17-2002 02:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 460-67Stang   Click Here to Email 460-67Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the replys guys. I have a few questions:

1) Where can I find CalTrack bars or the C/E slide a link bars?

2) "Ladder bars aren't practical on the street" - I've heard this before, but why aren't they streetable? Ride?

3) south side machine lift bars - Where can I find these?

4) RICKS - By staggered shocks do you mean having one mountd forward and one mounted rearward from the axle? Both my rear shocks are mounted to the stock, forward position. Your thinking this may be contributing to wheel hop?

68stang351 - Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks for the advice gang!!!

Brian

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6150
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-17-2002 03:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brian,

Here are some ladder bar threads for you to check out.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/001399.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/001100.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/002064.html

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/002374.html

Also Slide-a-Links are in Summit's catalog for $318.95, and CalTracks are available from Calvert Racing for about the same price.

CE's traction bars w/adjustable J hooks are $149.95 in the Summit catalog.

Good luck, and run a search in the Racing forum. You'll find tons of discussion on all kinds of performance topics.

SteveW

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