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Author Topic:   4-link/ladder bars handling characteristics
iamblackjack
Gearhead

Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 02-14-2002 10:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for iamblackjack   Click Here to Email iamblackjack     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm sure some one out there has a 4-link or ladder bar rear suspension. I'm considering it myself, but I don't want to drasticly effect the cars streetablity. I want to narrow my axle about 6-8 inches over all and run a pair of 18" x 12" wheels.

How would this handle if I run some tight springs and a rear sway bar??? I already have a Shelby spring and sway bar kit in the front.

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Pair of '65s from Texas

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Mario428
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 02-15-2002 06:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mario428   Click Here to Email Mario428     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ladder bars suck on a street car. The back of the car can not roll over on a corner because the ladder bars bind up. Though with the tires you are putting on handling around corners may not be a concern but any corner taken hard will put incredible loads on the front of the ladder bars.
The best setup is a 4 link where you keep the bars parellel when driving on the street and set them to best position for the track. Any 4 link with an IC under the car will act somewhat like a ladder bar.

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iamblackjack
Gearhead

Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 02-15-2002 07:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for iamblackjack   Click Here to Email iamblackjack     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mario,

Triangulated 4-link??

Unequal or equal length??

Paralell with the ground and/or each other??

Panhard bar or diaganal locating bar??

Any manufacturers??

I've looked at Competion Engneering and a few others. I kind of suspected that of the ladder bar system, but I also worried about the 4-link having too much lateral play.

Thanks, Kirk.

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Pair of '65s from Texas

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64FalconF-16
Gearhead

Posts: 233
From: Republic Of Texas!! Temporarily living in KY
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 02-15-2002 08:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 64FalconF-16   Click Here to Email 64FalconF-16     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
BlackJack,

I have two cars with 4 link under them.

For the street I went with the Comp Eng Pro-Street setup. DO NOT GET THE UNEQUAL LENGTH. Make sure you get the Pro-Street Hime Joints with the kit. If you don't it will squeek like crazy.

I love mine because it is fully adjustable. I can adjust the rear end up for regular street use and down for taking it to the track. Also the coilover shocks are adjustable for ride comfort.

The gotchas, You need a Panhard bar. That will solve your lateral worries. and a sway bar or you will hate it. Find a reputable outfit in your area to adjust the rear end so it will go straight. (Go to a local drag racing website) Once you have it running true you will love what the car looks like.

Rick

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64 Pro-Street Falcon
351C 4V 8.1s in 1/8
79 Ford Bronco 4 X 4 Lifted 6"
400C 9.9s in 1/8 :-)
70 Plymouth Cuda'
440 Magnum. 2600#
Race Car 6.90 in 1/8

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27499
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-15-2002 10:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Why do you want to go through all of the sh*t on a street car? For the looks? A 4 link certainly will not enhance the handling, and the constant attention will drive you nuts. Ladder bars are best suited to dedicated drag cars. A set of Cal-Tracks or C&E slide-a-links will serve you much better in my oppinion for "spirited" street and occasional track driving.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
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Mario428
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 02-15-2002 12:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mario428   Click Here to Email Mario428     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
DOH Sorry Kirk I misread your original post, I just saw big wheels and assumed a Pro Street type car but now I see you are planning a serious cornering effort.
In which case stay the hell away from drag racing stuff.
I do not know much about getting around corners, the only one I worry about is the turnoff road at the dragstrip.
You are looking at fabricating stuff as far as I know, the triangulated 4 link anyway.
Good coilovers and a sway bar but cannot help you with details.

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ASTIKHOSSW
Journeyman

Posts: 90
From: UPLAND CA SAN BERNARDINO
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 02-15-2002 07:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ASTIKHOSSW   Click Here to Email ASTIKHOSSW     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
CHECK WITH LUNDRUM FOR SOME ADVICE THEY MAKE LEAF SPRING SUSPENSION FOR THE ROUNDEY ROUND GUYS AND STEEET STUFF.BUT STAY AWAY FROM THE DRAG RACE STUFF.IE FOUR LINK OR LADDER BAR YOU WILL BE MISERABLE.

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iamblackjack
Gearhead

Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 02-15-2002 10:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for iamblackjack   Click Here to Email iamblackjack     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys. Right after I posted my last reply, I opened the latest Popular Hotrodding Mag. They had very short (follow up from a previous month's article) article on a '56 Crown Vic that is set up kinda like what I'm looking for. It DOES have a 4-link, but it's probably just a show car. One good idea that they had was putting custom fuel cell between the finder wells and fabricating the trumk floor.

Like I said though, When I get the car torn down and make some measurements and stuff, I mihgt drasticly change my mind. I WOULD feel much more comfortable with leaf springs, but that will majorly effect my trunk (back to fuel cell idea). I had already planned on fabricating a full length sub frame (starting from the front sub frame and remaining [practically] parallel to the back). I have a ton of other idea, but I'll have to spread them out over a few more post.

P.S. I know that some of Y'all probably think that I'm fixing to oper a BIG can of worm (seeing as how I've never done anything like this before), but I won't do anything to THIS car that I'm not 100% comfident about. This car means TOO much to me (My mom owned it 20yrs. I've had it for 10yrs).

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Pair of '65s from Texas

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chips67
Gearhead

Posts: 663
From: louisville, ky, usa
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 02-16-2002 10:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chips67   Click Here to Email chips67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
leaf springs and homeade slapper bars rule!!!

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67 coupe, 650dp and rpm intake on 5.0 with afr 165 heads, 4 speed, 4.11's.....best so far is [email protected] in 1/8 mile with 1.79 60ft. time.

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Gary
Gearhead

Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-17-2002 09:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gary   Click Here to Email Gary     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a 4-link on my 69 Mach and think the car handles pretty well except on un-even pavement but that is due to the huge 31x18.50's out back. Once you set them up (4-link)straight she tracks nicely. I think since the car now has a lower center of gravity it helps alot when cornering. Now my MT tires are another subject, they suck compared to a nice set of radials...look nice but thats about it.
In all I love the looks of the car and glad I did the 4-link to mine My car was rusted out in the truck area...thats all gone now with all new (steel sheet)tin work instead of alum. I figured since the car was mainly for street use steel tin was better and easier to work with. I purchased two "how to" videos of half backing a car, one from Chassis eng. and the other from S&W..they are great and well worth watching.
It's alot of work but not that bad, mine took me two months) measurements are the most important thing! recheck everything before you do the final welding.
Have fun.
PS. I use the solid heim joints, they make alittle noise but the engine makes alot more!!!! lol

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