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Author Topic:   Possible air leak source
Maxstang
Senior Member

Posts: 83
From:LA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-09-2000 12:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Maxstang   Click Here to Email Maxstang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Some of you may know I'm fighting what appears to be a manifold leak that only appears when the engine warms up. The leak appears to be very minor and manifests itself mostly as an increased surge at low RPMs. I had a thought today and thought I'd run it past you. I have ARP stainless bolts and washers on my aluminum intake. The washers don't compress like the copper stock ones. Is it possible I'm getting leaks at the intake bolts themselves when they heat up? I know I'm grasping but I'm stuck. -Max

IP: 205.188.199.166

John Z
Senior Member

Posts: 104
From:Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 03-09-2000 08:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z   Click Here to Email John Z     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If the washers are not sealing there would be a vacuum leak right? On Shade Tree Mechanic they showed using a propane bottle, like used for a plumber solderer, to sniff out vacuum leaks. You release some propane near where you think the leak is and if the propane is sucked in, the speed of the engine will increase. I think this is the process, may be others can comment.

IP: 157.182.80.226

Clark
Senior Member

Posts: 236
From:Rowlett,Texas
Registered: Aug 99

posted 03-09-2000 09:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clark   Click Here to Email Clark     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
John, that will work or you could just use starting fluid and squirt it around the bolts and other intake areas.

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69 351W Sportsroof Deluxe

IP: 208.238.117.2

Maxstang
Senior Member

Posts: 83
From:LA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-09-2000 12:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Maxstang   Click Here to Email Maxstang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys. I've tried the carb cleaner bit on the bolts but my leak is so subtle that it doesn't affect idle much at all. I think I'll try using some copper washers and see what happens. -Max

IP: 152.163.197.176

georgeb
Moderator

Posts: 793
From:Solomons, MD, USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-09-2000 03:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for georgeb   Click Here to Email georgeb     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you have power brakes, check the hose to the booster, the manifold fitting for said hose, the booster check valve for cracks, the booster check valve grommet for sealing, etc.

If you have a vacuum advance distributor, check the diaphram and pot for leakage, and of course the vacuum line/hose.

Also, remove carb and check the mounting flange for warpage, and the gasket and manifold surface for a possible leak source.

I doubt if it's the intake manifold bolts/washers; if you put the manifold on without using guide studs and the gasket wasn't fixed to the heads with sealer, a gasket probably slipped.

IP: 198.23.5.73

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 3668
From:Lyons, il, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-09-2000 10:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Max did you try the ATF trick? Alex

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator


IP: 152.163.195.183

Maxstang
Senior Member

Posts: 83
From:LA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-10-2000 02:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Maxstang   Click Here to Email Maxstang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Not yet Alex. I was rejetting the carb (a tad richer) maybe I'll try it this week.-Max PS. My tuner thinks I'm worrying too much and thinks this is just the way it's going to run when hot.

IP: 205.188.201.57

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