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Author
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Topic: Passenger Window Switch Issues
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-21-2005 02:19 PM
   
This is driving me crazy. My passenger window ('93 GT 'vert) works fine from the driver's side switch. However, it doesn't work at all from the passenger side. I pulled the switch from the passenger side and replaced it. No dice. I put a voltmeter on it, and the passenger side switch is getting no juice (but door lock switch is). I picked up a replacement door lock/window switch assembly at Carlisle (last year), but it's not interchangable with mine. It was from an '89 I think. Anyway, the wires off of mine got straight into a wrapped bundle and disappear into the door (no connectors). The shop manual says there are two fuses, one on the fuse panel, and one on the starter (?). The one in the panel is ok, but I have no clue about the one on the starter. Wouldn't a bad fuse disable the line from the driver's side also? Interestingly, if you remove the switch from the passenger side, the driver's side won't work either, so obviously the power runs through that switch when the driver's switch is closed. Man, I'm snowed what to do next....Help! Anyone have this issue? Dave
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44921
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-21-2005 08:53 PM
You've ruled out the problem being in the switch, take a close look at the contacts in the plugin and trace the juice back down the wire. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-21-2005 09:02 PM
The part I don't get is you said there was no power to switch, but when you remove it the drivers side stops working? Then there most be power getting to it some how, or it completes a ground system?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe 351w C4 Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-21-2005 09:18 PM
I just don't know where the wires go once they enter the door. They become a mass of taped wire bundle going God knows where. Scoop, I only measured for voltage when the driver's switch was not depressed. Since, if the switch is removed, the window doesn't move from the driver's switch, I can only assume that voltage must pass through the switch somehow, although I didn't verify that via a voltmeter. Seems weird that voltage would pass through there, but I can't figure out why else the passenger window won't work if the passenger switch is removed.I pulled out the shop manual, but as usual, it doesn't give enough detail about where things are. I guess I'd need a wiring diagram. Steve, I also cleaned all of the contacts with alcohol and a toothbrush on the switch thinking that they were just gunked up. Didn't seem to have any effect. I get 12v at the door lock switch but 0v at the window switch. I pulled the switch all apart, but cannot find anything wrong with it. 
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44921
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-21-2005 09:28 PM
Do you have the power supply wire identified? Is it live?------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-21-2005 09:30 PM
Dave, have you tried running a 12v jumper wire to switch? It would tell you if the switch works or not. ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe 351w C4 Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-21-2005 10:37 PM
No to all 3 questions. There are 5 wires on the switch. Connection figure looks like the '5' on a die. I assume that two of the five should be 12v (one set for up, one set for down, and a common ground). Although, the common ground could be a common 12v, depending how they lay it out. Again, a wiring diagram would be most useful.
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I65Stang
Gearhead Posts: 6502
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-22-2005 01:18 AM
I'll try and look at my wiring diagram tomorrow evening for ya (after running around getting parts lol)!
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 05-23-2005 10:15 AM
I'm sitting here trying to remember if my '91 vert has a "Window Lock" switch on the driver's side. I know I have one in my '93 Explorer. The window lock switch kills the power to all the other windows except the driver's side.I would take a close look at your driver's side switches. In my Explorer, if you hold down the window switch on any of the doors, the driver's switch won't operate the window with the depressed switch. I know this 'cause I have kids that like to play with the windows. That's also why I remember that my Explorer has the window lock switch. :) Anyway, the point is that all of the window switches are interconnected. The problem could be in your driver's side switch or wires.
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I65Stang
Gearhead Posts: 6502
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-23-2005 10:50 AM
Yes,it has a lock button. Ill get the diagram tonight
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-24-2005 11:29 PM
While I cannot guarantee the problem isn't with the lockout button, it is not in the lock position. As stupid as it would make me look, I wish it were that simple! 
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 05-25-2005 11:46 AM
I believe that since there is a Lock switch, everything has to go through the driver's switch. Do the back windows work from their switches.Do you know anyone close by that has a similar Fox with working switches? You can swap them and try it. Where in MD are you? I just looked on MapQuest and you're pretty far from me. ------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"Tank, I need an exit."
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
AIM, YM: topdnmustang [This message has been edited by ddenton749 (edited 05-25-2005).]
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-25-2005 10:39 PM
There are no swithes for the rear windows anywhere but on the driver's control panel. The only other switch for any window is the one on the passenger side that operates (when working) only the passenger side large window.I'm eons from everyone! That's a good idea though. I should find another '93 and experiment.... Hey Fishtail!!!
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 05-26-2005 08:49 AM
Interesting...my '91 has rear window switches in the back in the speaker grills.That's probably worth knowing if you're going to find another car and experiment. The other option is that those switches aren't all that expensive. The P-Side window switch is probably around $30 ------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"Tank, I need an exit."
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
AIM, YM: topdnmustang
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-26-2005 03:26 PM
Dave, that would have been funny if it was just that you had to unlock the lockout switch. 
Test to see if power goes and out from the lockout switch.------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe 351w C4 Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-27-2005 02:12 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Dave, that would have been funny if it was just that you had to unlock the lockout switch.
Test to see if power goes and out from the lockout switch.
If it were only that easy!!!
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-27-2005 02:17 PM
You need a master switch. That'll fix it. ------------------
Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1. Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5.
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-31-2005 09:31 PM
WELL?? Easy fix. Did you fix it??------------------
Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1. Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5. [This message has been edited by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER (edited 05-31-2005).]
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-01-2005 06:10 PM
No. You'd have to have a replacement master switch to be able to do that. I'm (hopefully) going to Carlisle this coming weekend and will pick one up.
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-01-2005 06:12 PM
And there's this:https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000679.html 
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Russ3747
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Raleigh, NC
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 06-02-2005 11:04 PM
yeah my 93 convert does the same thing passanger window switch does not work but it works form the driver's side, if you figure it out i would like to know.also my 89 LX some times the driverside window will not work with the door open witch i think is really weard. i think there is something wrong with the wires on these cars. P.S. I still love them
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fred
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: berea ky
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 06-10-2005 08:39 AM
The problem is probably the switch on the drivers side if you have no power on the pass side, both switches have to have a neutral position to allow current to flow so that you can control the window from either side,they actually reverse power sent to the other switch, I know this may sound confusing but more than likely it is the drivers switch.
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-10-2005 03:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by fred:
I know this may sound confusing but more than likely it is the drivers switch.
Quoted two weeks ago:
quote:
Originally posted by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER: You need a master switch. That'll fix it.
Hey, thanks for the backup Fred!!
------------------
Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1.
Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5. [This message has been edited by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER (edited 06-10-2005).]
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-01-2005 05:46 PM
Fixed it! Turned out that there was a hot wire attached (or not attached) to the back of the driver's side switch. It had broken off. Don't ask me how that could have happened, but I connected it back up, and low and behold, the window now works...from BOTH SIDES!!!! 
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-01-2005 06:50 PM
GOOD!  ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe 351w C4 Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 07-01-2005 09:27 PM
Outstanding!! I'll make myself a mental note on this one.------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-01-2005 10:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by GTRocks:
Fixed it! Turned out that there was a hot wire attached (or not attached) to the back of the driver's side switch. It had broken off. Don't ask me how that could have happened, but I connected it back up, and low and behold, the window now works...from BOTH SIDES!!!!
So, technically, it wasn't the master switch, but technically, the problem had to do with the master window switch circuitry. Glad you found the problem. Speaking of power window switch problems....I had a '95 Taurus SHO in my stall yesterday that had a passenger power window problem. It intermittently didn't work from the master switch and never worked from the passenger switch. After fiddling with the switch and finally figuring out that when you opened the driver door halfway, the window would start working again. Turned out to be a broken wire INSIDE the door jamb connector. Boy, that was a treat to figure out. ------------------
Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1.
MCA Member #61863 Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5.
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4072
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-02-2005 12:23 AM
Bet mine was a lot easier to fix too!
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