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Author Topic:   Removing Body Side Molding
Tim Cash
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Clarksville, TN, U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-29-2001 11:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tim Cash   Click Here to Email Tim Cash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Anyone know of a good method to remove the door molding on a 88 GT? I want to reuse it to save some money. That double sided tape is a nightmare.

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69 Resto Mod coupe
Journeyman

Posts: 9
From: Bay Area CA.
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-29-2001 12:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69 Resto Mod coupe   Click Here to Email 69 Resto Mod coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, I'm not sure how to do it right but I know how not to do it. (I screwed mine up) The moldings have a metal inserts in them, so don't make the same mistake I did. I pealed it back (kind of like a banana) and had a real problem making them flat again. Good luck

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Some day my car will be done.........

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wythors
Gearhead

Posts: 2589
From: The cold, gray Pacific Northwest
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 12-30-2001 01:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wythors   Click Here to Email wythors     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
WARNING: I have not used this method myself. This is hearsay. It sounds like it would work, but I make no guarantees. If it doesn't and screws up your car, my name is Stewart and I live in the Bay Area. E-mail Dave for my phone number and address.

Okay, that said, I have heard that you can take fishing line and use it to cut the tape. Grab a loop in each hand and run it behind the molding using a sawing motion. Don't know if it works or not. See above.

Dave ..... er ..... Stewart

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Stewart
Moderator

Posts: 7682
From: Monterey, CA Mustangsandmore Member #437
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 12-30-2001 03:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stewart   Click Here to Email Stewart     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
LOL! Problem is, the Bay Area means the San Francisco area. Ya have the Bay Area, the East Bay, and the South Bay. None of which is Monterey considered a part of.

As for the moldings? Whatever you do Tim, don't "peel" it. Much like 69 Resto up there, getting it flat again will be near impossible. Even if you do take it off the best way possible, you'll still have trouble getting it COMPLETELY flat again.

Stewart

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Tim Cash
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Clarksville, TN, U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-30-2001 05:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tim Cash   Click Here to Email Tim Cash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Stewart, would it be best just to leave it alone? I have some rust just above the driver's side molding that looks as if it may be going under. I bought some rust converter that I was going to try. If I do leave it, how to I get the ends back down? The tape seems to be separating.


Thanks
Tim

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Stewart
Moderator

Posts: 7682
From: Monterey, CA Mustangsandmore Member #437
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 12-31-2001 04:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stewart   Click Here to Email Stewart     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If it were my car, I'd take my chances bending the trim while taking it off, so I could take care of the rust. But that's because my car doesn't have a spot ANYWHERE on it that is rusting, plus my 5.0 is in excellent shape. You need to weigh the pro's and con's of removing the trim or leaving it on.

Visit a body shop and ask them how they would remove the side moldings. A lot of times they are very helpful.

I've also heard that the metal strip in the molding can be removed. If that's true, maybe you could get a machine shop to make replacement strips. You know, if you happen to damage any of them, or they come out "wavy" after you remove them.

I dunno Tim. this really sounds like a personal call. You have to decide whether or not the rust is cause enough to remove the trim, and risk bending it.

Stewart

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Tim Cash
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Clarksville, TN, U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-31-2001 05:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tim Cash   Click Here to Email Tim Cash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stewart:
If it were my car, I'd take my chances bending the trim while taking it off, so I could take care of the rust. But that's because my car doesn't have a spot ANYWHERE on it that is rusting, plus my 5.0 is in excellent shape.
Stewart

Thanks Stewart. My wife is yelling "I told you so" in my ear. She told me to wait and find a stang for a bit more that needed little or no work, but me being hardheaded and impatient, ran out and bought the first thing I found.

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Stewart
Moderator

Posts: 7682
From: Monterey, CA Mustangsandmore Member #437
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 12-31-2001 05:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stewart   Click Here to Email Stewart     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tim Cash:
Thanks Stewart. My wife is yelling "I told you so" in my ear.

Oh man! I hope I didn't come across like I was rubbing it in!! All I meant was, that for me, since my car is in excellent shape, I wouldn't hesistate to remove the trim to get to the rust. Since your car has a lot of cosmetic issues, you might want to look at the whole picture (stripping the car down and taking care of ALL the rust) and not just worry about bending the trim.

Stewart

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 18769
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99

posted 01-01-2002 08:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wythors:
[b]WARNING: I have not used this method myself. This is hearsay. It sounds like it would work, but I make no guarantees. If it doesn't and screws up your car, my name is Stewart and I live in the Bay Area. E-mail Dave for my phone number and address.
[/B]

LOL!!!!!

Is it just doubleface taped on, or is there hardware? I'd check it out in a manual first.

3M makes an excellent spray trim adhesive release agent. I'd use that and some heat from a hair dryer.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

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