Author
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Topic: suspension control arms
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-01-2001 12:25 PM
has anyone thought about replacing the stock lower suspension control arms with the aftermarket tubular A-arms and removing the strut-rods? If you have done this, what modifications have to be made to the cross-frame?
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The Cobraman Gearhead Posts: 119 From: Edmond, OK USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-02-2001 12:28 AM
I believe if you look closely at the manufacturer's info, the wide tubular lowers are not recommended for use with the stock crossmember, and the narrow style tubulars require the strut rod.
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Maxwell_fax Gearhead Posts: 102 From: Port Royal, PA, USA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 05-02-2001 02:25 AM
Using the wide tubulars with no strut rod on the stock crossmember is very much bad... The crossmember isn't quite strong enuff...
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-02-2001 03:22 PM
what if the crossmember was strenghtened with steel plate and boxing it, do you think it would work? I agree that without a tubular A arm the strut is required. I'm looking for more wheel clearance and removing the strut junk that protrudes into the area between the frame rails. I've moved the firewall back 10" for engine set-back.
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Maxwell_fax Gearhead Posts: 102 From: Port Royal, PA, USA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 05-03-2001 04:36 AM
I actually have been thinking the same thing myself... If reinforced by some means I think it would work..
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-08-2001 05:09 PM
I've been looking at the street rods front cross member this last weekend and they seem to just thicker side sheet metal. Do you think this would be enough?
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-08-2001 05:10 PM
just be thicker........
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Boneman Journeyman Posts: 24 From: Sharon, PA, USA Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 05-09-2001 07:22 AM
Why not do what the Hotrodders do to hacked out MII IFS. Box the factory arms with a plate of sheet metal welded to the bottoms.That would allow you to trim off the lip around the arms in install larger dia. disks & rims.
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-09-2001 12:47 PM
that would work for the disc and rims and be a big improvement, but I'd still have the strut rods in the engine bay area. I've been thinking that I maybe able to shorten the threaded length on the strut for more clearance in the engine bay and cutting down the strut mounts size. I would like more side to side engine bay clearance since I've moved the firewall back 10" and the engine about 8". I'm looking for header and starter clearance.
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JEBSCOBRA Journeyman Posts: 5 From: LYNCHBURG,VA,USA Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-19-2001 05:12 PM
is it hard and expensive to move in the rear for say a 205.55.16 pony wheel
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The Cobraman Gearhead Posts: 119 From: Edmond, OK USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-19-2001 09:58 PM
The 91-93 ponies with a 205 will work without modifications. my 225s rub in hard corners. The rear actually could stand to be about 1-1.5" wider
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-21-2001 12:03 PM
cobraman, so your saying the front 225 tires rub against the frame at full lock? What's the back space and rim width on the 91-93 pony rims your running?
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6tFalcon Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Wayne MI USA Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 10:56 AM
I took a stock mustang II and put tubular lower control arms on it. First I bored out the lower bolt hole to 1.25 dia and then took a piece of round stock 1.5 dia actually for those that work in machining it was a 1.5 boring bar shank a little over 7 inches long. I drilled a .630 hole through for the bolt and turned down the width of the lower control arm so that it just stuck out the other side a little bit to weld to. Then i welded it in and put a support to it for strenght. As you can see in the pictures. [img]www.prostreet60falcon.homestead.com/files/54falcon.jpg[/img] [img]www.prostreet60falcon.homestead.com/files/54falcon.jpg[/img]
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6tFalcon Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Wayne MI USA Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 10:58 AM
quote: Originally posted by 6tFalcon: I took a stock mustang II and put tubular lower control arms on it. First I bored out the lower bolt hole to 1.25 dia and then took a piece of round stock 1.5 dia actually for those that work in machining it was a 1.5 boring bar shank a little over 7 inches long. I drilled a .630 hole through for the bolt and turned down the width of the lower control arm so that it just stuck out the other side a little bit to weld to. Then i welded it in and put a support to it for strenght. As you can see in the pictures.I guess you can't show pictures here. Or i don't know how to put them here. [img]www.prostreet60falcon.homestead.com/files/54falcon.jpg[/img] [img]www.prostreet60falcon.homestead.com/files/54falcon.jpg[/img]
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 12:04 PM
6TFalcon I can't get to your pictures. Do you have an website? I can't get into the one you've listed. So how well does the front suspension work? Any twisting or stress to the cross member?
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6tFalcon Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Wayne MI USA Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 12:41 PM
I just updated my site with some pictures of the mustang II ifs havent add any word to the pictures yet but a picture is worth a 1000 words. Best viewed in internet explore. www.prostreet60falcon.homestead.com/insert3.html
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roadsterII Journeyman Posts: 19 From: West Olive, MI, USA Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 04:21 PM
thanks falcon, the pictures worked this time and you're right. The do tell a 1000 words. I think from your example I have my answer. Seems you have no strut rod. The picture doesn't show one or if you added one later. By the way, the Falcon looks like a fun little ride. Nice work.
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6tFalcon Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Wayne MI USA Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-25-2001 04:39 PM
Thank. And yes there is no strutrod i didnt want to run one. Save a couple of pounds.
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