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Topic: vibration
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 02-27-2001 08:44 PM
Thanx guys,Im going to check that balance to see if it moved. What about the balance on the yoke of the drive shaft? that also has a rubber ring on it.What is the purpose for that balance? I have been working on cars my whole life and have torn this one apart and replaced about everything major.It might be time to tear it down and send it out.start from scatch with the drive train.(Motor has less then 6000 miles on it now.)Rebalance the whole show. Let me know about that yoke? ALSO anyone know what the little sensor with one wire in the grill of some models is for?
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 02-28-2001 04:13 PM
Try unbolting and spinning the drive shaft 180 degrees. That is a very common cure for vibrations on cars that have dampner equipped drive shafts. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 02-28-2001 05:18 PM
Thanx Moneymaker, I did that. no change. I been toying with it to long. Its starting to not be fun anymore. I've gone to tech school graduated with a 4.0. played with cars my whole life.This one is making a dummy out of me. The only thing i havent replaced is the interior and paint. I feel someone didnt do their job properly somewhere along the line(eng.shaft balance or trany)SO im gonna pull it all back out. I've done it so many times i can have it all out before noon on a saturday. Downfall is living in the east with no garage.(WEATHER KILLS CARS)Anyway thanx alot for your reply.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 02-28-2001 05:58 PM
OK, just two more easy things for you to try, First, disconnet the torque converter, push it back and start the engine. Since you say that you can feel it in neutral that is a good test. If that does not cure it, disconnect all of the accessory belts and start and run the engine. There may be a belt driven pump or alternator or pully causing the problem. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 02-28-2001 09:58 PM
Thank you moneymaker for something i havent tryied. This i will do. I do think i recall a pully not looking to straight. Just never put much thought into it at that time. I do think im going to pull the motor anyway. It had a couple thousand miles put on it. I want to check everything inside. could have torn up some bearings. It was also in another car,85 stang before i got it. I bought it from someone i know. it was bored 60 over and all that fancy stuff. Anyway it would make me feel alot better to know whats wrong first. I want to take it to a mustang show that comes around . mustangs unlimited had one one year. You dont see any mustii around here to much. I seen one in a show out of about 50 shows. Thanx again. Also tring to find frame supports. do you who makes them?
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 02-28-2001 10:14 PM
Frame supports? Do you mean sub frame connectors? ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-01-2001 04:38 PM
Sorry, yes i do. Can i weld or bolt roll bars to them? Just not sure how there made. Going to run 400 horse or so. I figure roll bars will help also. Im Looking for those to. I find that some places dont list must.ii parts but have them.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 14622 From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773 Registered: May 99
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posted 03-01-2001 04:54 PM
quote: Originally posted by Moneymaker: disconnect the torque converter, push it back and start the engine. Since you say that you can feel it in neutral that is a good test.
I never knew you could do that. The converter can go that far back? ------------------ '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter "Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"
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Mark Gearhead Posts: 229 From: North East Ohio Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-02-2001 01:02 PM
Oh My. ...You say this was in a '85 and had a bunch of quality work done to it?? This opens a whole nother can of worms. I bet you changed/ are using a different flywheel/ flexplate. First, I bet the engine was ballanced for another fly/ flex. Second, there is the possability the crank was reballanced to '85 spec, or the crank may have been replaced with a post '82 unit to work with the '85 parts. If I were you I would definatly pull the engine and start checking numbers. Or maybe even pull the bottom and have it's ballance checked if there are still questions. Won't take too much being wrong to ruin a 0.060 over block.
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-02-2001 04:08 PM
Thanx Mark. The guy i bought the eng from (who also had it built) tells me that he didnt change anything. he had it built as a 1969 motor. same crank but turned. he also told me he had a little prob. with vibration and was told to put an older flywheel in the car. Then he said it went away. This man is not to smart about cars. he didnt even know what he put in it for a cam. I just had talked to him. Im more confused know than before. If i explain to a the machine shop whats going on. will they know what to look for? Or what do i do now? I wasnt to worried about it coming out of an 85 because he said he didnt change anything. he says the front balance is the 1969. OH BOY!
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-02-2001 11:36 PM
Yes Steve, you can do that on almost any FoMoCo except one that has an integral flywheel torque converter of course. We used to to that at the dealerships to localize vibration problems all of the time. I still do it when I am trouble shooting someones miss match. I'll look into some ready made sub frame connectors for Mustang II's Gidyup.------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 14622 From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773 Registered: May 99
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posted 03-04-2001 03:45 PM
Thanks, Alex. That's another one for my bag of tricks. ------------------ '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter "Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"
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a351must2 Gearhead Posts: 288 From: Snohomish, WA, USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-04-2001 03:48 PM
Sounds like exactly where the vibration is coming from.The '85 crank is a lightweight crank that requires a matched harmonic balancer and flywheel. The '69 flywheel and balancer are not for this motor. The two fixes are to either replace the harmonic balancer and flywheel with the correct ones for this motor, or to take the crank, flywheel, harmonic balancer, and one piston/rod to shop that can do balancing and have it balanced.
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-04-2001 07:12 PM
a351must2, Im not sure i understand what your saying. My eng. is a 1969. Original crank,balancer.With the must2 flywheel that has a 28 oz weight. If this is correct i should not have a mismatch prob? If the eng was balanced for an85 must i should have prob? I also dont think you can put a bigger flywheel in these cars. I again talked to the guy who had it buit. He says the man that built the eng builds all race motors and didnt know what the eng was going in when he built it.My buddy thinks it may have been internaly balanced. Is this a possiblity?
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-05-2001 08:14 PM
To be internally balanced like all of my race engines, you must have a neutral balance flywheel and balancer. No weights on them. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-05-2001 08:52 PM
My front balance has no weight. Time to start back from the top. Tear it all down and check it out. THANX[This message has been edited by Gidyup302 (edited 03-05-2001).]
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-07-2001 11:05 PM
How about your flywheel? ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-08-2001 05:28 PM
Flywheel has a 28 ounce weight on it.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 8413 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-08-2001 05:54 PM
I think that you found your problem. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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John Holloway Gearhead Posts: 273 From: Romeoville Illinois Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 03-28-2001 07:59 PM
Gidyup,did you find out what the problem was,I have a 83302HO in my 77 MustangII,I am using the stock flywheel from the C-4 trans.I have a 50oz balancer with the stock 28oz flywheel and I have no viberations???The 50oz balancer was confirmed today
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a351must2 Gearhead Posts: 288 From: Snohomish, WA, USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-29-2001 12:55 PM
John, do you know if you motor has ever been balanced?My Mach 1 has a 28oz flywheel on a '88 5.0L with a 50oz balancer, but the whole rotating assembly was balanced together so it runs perfectly smooth.
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John Holloway Gearhead Posts: 273 From: Romeoville Illinois Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 03-29-2001 05:44 PM
They were not balanced together,the 83 302 is stock and never been taken apart
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mustangj Gearhead Posts: 138 From: fergus,ontario,canada Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 03-29-2001 10:56 PM
Gidyup302: When my II belonged to my best friend. he blew up the original 302 engine. we put a roller motor from an 88 lincoin mark7 into it. It had a large vibration problem! we used the II's harmonic and flex plate. to solve the problem we uh...... cole chisled the weight off the flex plate. As back-yard as that sounds the vibration disappeared 100%. I bought a competition engineering 6 point cage and frame connectors . The cage was great, the connectors sucked huge! I did not know when I ordered them that they were desighed to move the leaf spring mounts inboard. To instal them you must cut your floor to pieces. I ended up cutting the sping pockets off the connectors and welding them to the original pockets. The connectors go right though the rear seat pan making the rear seats not fit anymore. Now you know which ones not to buy anyway! ------------------ 1978 mustang II t-top mach 1 1991 lincoln mark 7 1997 escort wagon type R [email protected]
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-15-2001 09:07 PM
THANX MUSTANGJ,SOMEONE ELSE TOLD ME TO PULL THAT WEIGHT OF THE FLYWHEEL ALSO,BUT I FEEL THAT IT WAS RUN LIKE THAT TO LONG AND MAY HAVE TORN UP THE BRNGS.HOPEFULLY NOTHING ELSE.SO OUT WITH THE ENG. ON THOSE CONNECTORS,WHO MADE THEM?I CANT EVEN FIND ANY.I FOUND SOME LIFT BARS BUT IM AFRAID THEIR GOING TO MAKE MY CAR TWIST LIKE AN OLD DISH TOWEL WITHOUT SOMEMORE SUPPORT.
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mustangj Gearhead Posts: 138 From: fergus,ontario,canada Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-15-2001 11:29 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Gidyup302: "...ON THOSE CONNECTORS,WHO MADE THEM?" Competition Engineering. I am not certain they still make them, I will check at work tomorrow for you. They suck anyway! They were a $250.00 piece of square tubing. I did a custom thang under there I will take some pictures and throw them up on my page soon.------------------ 1978 mustang II t-top mach 1 1991 lincoln mark 7 1997 escort wagon type R [email protected]
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-16-2001 08:26 PM
THANX MUSTANGJ, PICTURES SOUND VERY HELPFUL,I GOT TO DO SOMETHING.350-400 HORSE IS ALOT FOR THAT CAR.
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mustangj Gearhead Posts: 138 From: fergus,ontario,canada Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-16-2001 08:50 PM
quote: Originally posted by Gidyup302: THANX MUSTANGJ, PICTURES SOUND VERY HELPFUL,I GOT TO DO SOMETHING.350-400 HORSE IS ALOT FOR THAT CAR.
My car is going up on the hoist wednesday, Pictures soon! I did not have a chance to check the comp engenginneering thing. Too many colored light bulb and clear tail light sales to keep up with!! (at my work). With that many ponies consider the 6 point cage. This stiffened my twist top II huge! I had to send my Ghia to the glue factory because I twisted it into a pretzel! 350-400 horse power, wow! My car has an estimated 275 plus a hundred nitrous in the works! I have intense horsepower envy! I built my engine mild because SMOG regulations in Canada treatened to be for all cars, no matter what year. Now that SMOG is in full effect, cars 20 years and older are exemt, anyone want an E.G.R vavle!!! arg.....
------------------ 1978 mustang II t-top mach 1 1991 lincoln mark 7 1997 escort wagon type R [email protected]
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John Holloway Gearhead Posts: 273 From: Romeoville Illinois Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 04-16-2001 10:20 PM
No Thanks,I'm tring to quit!!
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Gidyup302 Journeyman Posts: 46 From: Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-19-2001 06:36 PM
I live in CT.and their not to bad with the old cars on emissions,78 and up needs cats,they knock test them,so no hollows!My eng is out of a 69 stang.Its 60 over with TRW flat tops(10.5 compression)with one pc.rings.An EB 289 performer with a Holly 750 double pumper.I bought it done, but just found out it was internally balanced and blueprintd. I like to swap rears from 300 to 340's depending on my mood.I had 411'S. What holds that 6 point cage in place? I was looking at them . Weld ins?
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mustangj Gearhead Posts: 138 From: fergus,ontario,canada Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-19-2001 11:37 PM
"What holds that 6 point cage in place? I was looking at them . Weld ins?" The competition engineering cage is basically a pre-formed hoop with lots-o-extra tubes. The main hoop is the hardest part of making a cage, so the kit makes life a little easier. You must form plate steel, to weld to the floor. Then you must fish-mouth,cut and weld the rest together. It was a big job. I cut, fit and tac welded the cage and my friend welded it all for me. He is a very good welder, where as my welds look like snot! Some of the welding ,and I quote "was like trying to weld a snow flake to a dew drop". Building a cage in a unibody car is like building a ship in a bottle! Our backs may never be the same! All that said, I highly recommend it. The suspenshion works better, The car hooks harder and lets face it cages look cool! I put my cage in because my car is a twist top, and I was worried it would pretzel up like my last II. I rolled my jeep 8 times on the highway once, so the cage also gives piece of mind. You never know when a flat bed truck is going to blow a stop sign (in the rain, in my case). ------------------ 1978 mustang II t-top mach 1 1991 lincoln mark 7 1997 escort wagon type R [email protected]
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toastcgm Journeyman Posts: 5 From: Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-26-2001 10:57 PM
check out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591760233
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