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Author
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Topic: Ford oil pan gaskets.......
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Strain Gang
Gearhead Posts: 212
From: Thor, Iowa
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-12-2004 09:15 PM
   
SUCK 100%. I dont know if it is my rear main cap or what, but all three oil pans (stock Ford, Canton, and now Kevko all for 351w) we had on this thing keep spitting out REAR pan end seals. There is absolutely no reason for it. I have tried to install then dry with only a little dab of goo at the ends, siliconing them in and everything else. Why am I having such a problem with it. Am I not doing something right? It is always on the passengers side about 3/4 inch up from the bolt and it pushes out about an inch of it. As you can tell I am very upset with it and it just ruined another $20 gasket. I know it sounds stupid, but I am half tempted to just toss the end seals like on an intake and silicone the whole damn thing. I figure its gonna leak either way. Please help a Fella out. Thanks, Steve.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-12-2004 09:30 PM
You can always bring it back to Lyons.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Strain Gang
Gearhead Posts: 212
From: Thor, Iowa
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-12-2004 09:50 PM
That sure is a tempting offer Chief. I had the gasket down like you said and when I start pulling the pan down, alternating sides, the seal pushes out EVERYTIME. Tell me exactly how you do it and I will see where I screwed up at. The guy I got this gasket from Has a Vette with a BBC and he showed me his 1 piece gasket that is virtually indestructible. It is made of a hard plastic that will not move. It is made by Fel Pro and is cheaper than the two I just trashed. Thanks, Steve.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8826
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 03-12-2004 10:03 PM
Steve,Was it a one peice like we discussed in this thread? https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/007586.html SteveW
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Strain Gang
Gearhead Posts: 212
From: Thor, Iowa
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-12-2004 10:11 PM
Steve, No it was a Fel Pro 1810. The first one was a Fel Pro 1827 for strokers ect. I decided I did not want to spend $40 on the 1 piece and next day air so I got the 1810. The 1827 I had to pull of cuz the jesus clip for the dist. fell into the pan. Then when I went to pull the pan to see what was wrong with the 1810 the silicone had tacked up and the gasket ripped in 4 pieces. I think I might order the 1 piece on Monday. I am running out of time to be screwing around like this. Strainer.
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Dad Vishus
Gearhead Posts: 836
From: Moscow, Iowa, USA
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 03-12-2004 10:33 PM
If I had a rubber gasket that was doing that, I'd glue it down first with good ole Permatex #2. You'll play heck gettin it back off, but if you let that stuff set up for a day or 2, it keeps rubber from goin anywhere. I've never thought silicone and rubber gaskets were a good match. The silicone makes the rubber slick and doesn't stick to it very well. JMHO  ------------------
63 Falcon 377 Cleveland stroker Flying Toilet alchohol injection. 6.19 @ 110 MPH 1/8 mile
2002 Ranger FX4 daily driver
2000 F350 PSD Crew cab dually - Like commuting in a B52!!
98 US Cargo Phantom II 28'
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1437
From: Hurricane alley
Registered: May 2002
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posted 03-13-2004 11:20 AM
3M spray contact adhesive has worked great for me over the years on intake gaskets, oil pan gaskets, valve cover and timing cover gaskets, just about everything including transmission pan gaskets...It works on rubber or cork as well.Spray a light coat on the gasket and on the block pan rail. While your letting it get tacky, apply a small amount of black silicone on the rear main cap ends, where the nipples go into the holes. Also, I apply black silicone to the outer side of rear main cap as well before installing the cap. That?s been a problem area for the 2.9L Ford truck engines for a while now. The nice thing about this contact adhesive is it?s easily removed with solvent or brake cleaner. I?ve used it for years. I had a link for the site, but I think it's down. [This message has been edited by Buster (edited 03-13-2004).]
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Strain Gang
Gearhead Posts: 212
From: Thor, Iowa
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-13-2004 04:10 PM
Well after 3 hours and 50 miles later, I finally solved the problem. I finally found a 1 piece gasket!!!!!. I went and bought 3 different styles of gaskets, 1 piece silicone rubber (both Victor and Fel Pro) and a Victor multi piece Hi Perf. gasket with steel insert. Got home cleaned block of all old silicone and also the main caps where the ends sit into block, wiped it clean with brake clean and test fitted the Victor 1 piece and it sat BEAUTIFULLY. The multi piece end seals NEVER sat as good as them. Victor said to install dry (as did FelPro) and the thing never moved. Now I am happy again.  Tomorrow it will go into the Falcon. Thanks for all your help, Steve.
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