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Author Topic:   Installing center section
streetstang67
Gearhead

Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 08-27-2003 10:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for streetstang67   Click Here to Email streetstang67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I hope to install my new center section this weekend if it comes in. Can somebody tell me the specs on doing this? What kind of gear oil, what to torque any of the bolts to, how do undo/redo the u joints....? Basically, I want to know everything I'll need to know to do this, that way I wont get it apart, and then not know how to correctly put everything back...I'm not even positive of how to take it all apart . I just want to get this thing in and do it right. Thanks

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'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast

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Tea'sGrabber
Gearhead

Posts: 276
From: Seattle, Wash.
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 08-28-2003 10:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tea'sGrabber   Click Here to Email Tea'sGrabber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What type????? detroit locker??? Traction-lok????? 8"? 9"????

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Todd 71 Mav Grabber All orig 306 cu.in. Cast Iron heads. Carillo Rods.Best et. 10.71 @ 124 thru the mufflers.

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MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 234
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 08-28-2003 11:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
When I installed a new driveshaft w/ fresh u-joints in my car, I was told that when you tighten the u-bolts that hold the rear u-joint to the pinion yoke, only tighten the nuts until the lock washers are flattened and use loctite. Overtightening will put uneven stress on the u-joint and wear it out fast. As for the installing the center, it's pretty easy. You tear down the brakes so you can get to bearing retainers, take loose the 4 retainer nuts, pull the axles a couple or three inches, might have to use a slide hammer (can borrow from autozone) to pop loose the axle. Then you unbolt the center, drain the oil, remove it, clean up the mating surfaces. On my 9" I used RTV on the housing, put on a new gasket, more RTV on the gasket then slid the center in and bolted it down w/ nylon insert lock nuts, eliminating the factory copper washers. Then you slide your axles back in, I used a little RTV on the edge of bearing. Bolt the retainers back on. Not sure if you need new retainers or not, I used new ones. Reassemble the brakes. I filled mine w/ Red Line synthetic lube that has friction additive in it already. Burn some rubber. Good Luck.

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Killingworth, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 08-28-2003 12:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just what MDF said, with a couple additions..

When you pull the drum, you'll see some holes in the axle flange. These allow you to use a socket and extension to get to the bearing retainer bolts without removing any of the brake parts.

You'll probably be spending some quality time with a chisel, getting the copper washers off the center section studs. This is a PITA, but the nugget won't come out unless they are all removed. Don't replace these washers, just use Nylock nuts, I believe they are 5/16-24 (fine thread), I always get the stainless ones...

While you have the axles pulled, I'd recommend you dress the seal contact surface just inboard of the bearing with some fine emery or 600 grit paper. Give this surface a thin coat of grease or axle lube when you put them back in.

Check your axle bearings while they are out. If they feel even slightly crunchy or make odd noises when you spin them, replace them. You need a press to install the new ones, so you may have to take them to a machine shop.

I also recommend you replace the axle seal that is installed in the housing itself. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes when you are at this stage.

I generally skip the whole gasket thing when installing the nugget. I just lay a bead of RTV around the perimeter of the housing and let it set up for 10 minutes or so.

Before you insert the nugget, make sure the splines --inside-- the locker are lined up. There are two sets of splines one one side that your axle must align with. Take your axle and stick it in each side, and make sure it will engage completely. Otherwise you'll end up trying to fix this in the car, and that is a total PITA...ask me how I know...

Get a friend to help you with the nugget, it isn't easy for one person to muscle it up into place, line up the studs etc, especially if you've never done it before.

Before I insert the last axle, I jack up that side of the housing and fill the axle with the gear oil through the housing end. This makes it a piece of cake to do, instead of under the car with a hose on the bottle, trying to fill it through the plug. ]

Make sure you get the little bottle of posi-traction additive. Most gear oils say they are limited slip friendly, but I have never found one that won't cause my posi to chatter on corners without the additive.

Any brand name 85W-90 or better gear oil will be fine. I think a 9" takes 2 or so quarts, but I'm not sure.

[This message has been edited by Hemikiller (edited 08-28-2003).]

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-28-2003 12:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's good time to think about changing your axle bearings.It's not expensive but you do have to take them to shop to them pressed on and off.
I'll 2nd what Hemikiller said about having another person help you put the center section back in.I did it myself,but it's not easy on your back.

It's not a hard job over all.Just take your time.

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SCOOP

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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