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Author
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Topic: Help Building a budget 351w
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 02:33 AM
 
Ok if all goes well this summer.I may have enough $$ to build a budget motor.
So using what I already have a 1969 351w motor.RPM intake,hedmen long tube headers,duraspark system,600 VS carb
What should I do to it,and how much can it be done for.I was hoping to get 400 out of it.It must be ok on the street and last. I'm hoping to keep it at or under $2500 with shop work. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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ccode67
Gearhead Posts: 3285
From: douglasville,ga,usa
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 11:32 AM
Stroke it....
392 is an easy one, uses a different crank ($400) stock length rods and 302 pistons, you'll be buying pistons anyway. Easy 400 hp or more.------------------
Stuart
MCA #48902
M&M #1091
67 stang 5 speed, 351W,
Edelbrock Performer RPM package my photo page
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mustangboy
Gearhead Posts: 1343
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-18-2003 01:01 PM
There's no denying the strokers make great power but I would stay with the stock stroke if your on a tight budget.I've read countless posts about crappy quality cranks or how the cranks were machined poorly or out of balance etc etc.Personally I would put my money into some good aftermarket heads if you can afford them.For example the edelbrock performer rpm,heads,cam and intake combo made over 400 hp with only 9:1 compression.If you absolutely have to stay with the stock heads,a good port and valve job and more compression and cam should get you close to the combo's numbers.------------------
1968 mustang j-code sprint.13.69@101 306cu.in, stock ported heads,weiand exellerator,650 holley DP,hedman hedders,comp 292 Magnum cam,4-speed,8 inch 4.11 detroit locker http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 08-18-2003 01:34 PM
Remember those heads I found for $400 last year? Try to find a good pair of used heads. Then rebuild the bottom end with flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, and instal a Comp 282S cam and you'll be there.  SteveW
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-18-2003 02:27 PM
How fast do you want to go, Scoop?BTW there's a $2500.00 windsor buildup in the newest Car Craft or Popular Hot Rodding(I get those two confused)
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65racecoupe
Gearhead Posts: 149
From: Tempe, AZ,
Registered: May 2002
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posted 08-18-2003 02:47 PM
Car Craft.There will be no dyno numbers until all three engines are finished though.
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 05:30 PM
quote:
Originally posted by steve'66:
Remember those heads I found for $400 last year? Try to find a good pair of used heads. Then rebuild the bottom end with flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, and instal a Comp 282S cam and you'll be there. SteveW
Steve I remember those heads and I was unable at the time to buy them. I regret not getting them ever since. I really appreciate you doing that for me. Sorry it did not workout. Thats a real big cam.I don't know how to cut reliefs in the pistons.Is this something I should have done at a shop? If you come across any parts let me know.I'll know if I have the money to spend on the motor,or not in the next two weeks or so. Rustang,I'd like to get into the 12's.I'd be happy with low 13's too. I'll have to grab Car Craft magazine.But I trust who guys alot more then some car rag. What about just putting some heads and larger cam on my used short block.I'm looking for an cheap way to go fast,but I dont want N20 or to trash the motor.
------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 06:12 PM
I wouldn't skimp on the low end scoop. I would start asking around at the local cruise spots for reputable machine shops. Ask the guys who are gearheads and not just show guys.Then when you call the machine shops, ask them how much it would cost to rebuild a short block including the following but not limited to: clean and magnaflux for cracks
align hone mains for .002 clearance
bore & hone with torque plate
polish the crank and/or turned if required
balance rotating assembly
possibly deck block for 0 to +.002 I would try a realistic goal of 1.1 - 1.4hp per cubic inch and still be very streetable. After the low end is stout, then match them up with good heads and a big cam (282s - 294s) and you'll make big torque and big hp. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 07:22 PM
Eric I really dont care about the HP number it's the ET's. 
If I only get 350hp but can run low 13's to 12's I'd be real happy.
I also have to keep this motor low dollar.So if I can do it for less then $2000 thats even better.
I'll know about the money for sure in about 2 weeks or so.I'll call some shops after I have the money ready.If it's all a go I'll email Alex for some of the other parts.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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JCQuinn@work
Gearhead Posts: 998
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 07:47 PM
Scoop, your horsepower is determined primarily by the airflow system ( carb, manifold, heads, and exhaust) The cam can move your peak torque and Hp around some and cubic inches set the power peak.A 351 with a good air flow system will be a strong motor, the extra inches will make the power peak at a lower RPM. What people refer to a a super torque motor is a motor that does not have enough airflow to spin 9000 rpm with the displacement of the shortblock. In a street car this is a good thing. You don't want to spin high rpm in a street car. For instance a 300 inch engine with 300 CFM heads, a 750 carb, a good manifold, and race headers is capable of making about 700 HP at 10,000 RPM. It will run fast but will break constantly. The same setup but with 400 cubic inches still makes around 700 HP but at 7500 rpm. At 3000 RPM the 300ci makes 300 LBft of torque, the 400ci makes 450. For a hot street car the big motor is best but it still needs good heads. John
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 08:06 PM
Thanks John that makes sense to me.
I'm keeping my eyes out for a deal on some good used heads.Or I'll go with the RPM heads new.I know that will take most of my budget,but I'm hoping to get my motor's short block rebuilt for around $600-$1000 does that sound about right?
$1000 for short block and $1100 for heads =$2100,plus new exhaust and 750 carb.What compression can I use,or should I use.
------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 1558
From: central Indiana
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 08:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
I really dont care about the HP number it's the ET's.
Hey, you're catching on! 
------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 351C 4V
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 08:35 PM
Ben the NUMBER guys are always the most fun to beat. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 08:38 PM
Before thinking about compression, you need to decide on the rpm range that you will run. Then you can choose a cam and head combination that will provide the best power with the type of gas that you want to use. Does that make sense?------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)full street trim!
DanH
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1821
From: Hurricane alley
Registered: May 2002
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posted 08-18-2003 10:08 PM
Yes, by all means, find a good set of used aluminum heads for starters. Just make sure they have good valves, no two-piece valves... either that or changed the valves to be on the safe side.I have a few cylinder head parts around, if you find a bare set let me know and I will hook you up with the rest....
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Bluegras
Journeyman Posts: 64
From: Easton,Pa.
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 08-18-2003 10:23 PM
The 69-70 larger port bigger valve heads would work well when prepped. For the street/strip combination, higher compression will be most helpfull with a cam the will run up to 6500 rpm.
That is about the best you can do and keep the cost down.
I am currently putting together a 351W for sprint car use running alky, N351 heads and big victor intake with an 850 carb.
The shop says it will make 550 hp+ in the 7000 rpm range.
Doing up an engine for relibality and power is not cheap so be ready to spend more than $2k by the time you done.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 08-18-2003 10:46 PM
Ron,Let me know when you're ready and Glen and I will start looking, meanwhile we'll keep our ears open for deals too good to pass up. SteveW
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 12:55 AM
Thanks Steve and Glen I'll let you know.Like I said I should know in the next few weeks.Buster,thanks for the help.I'll let you know what I find. Bluegras I have 69 heads now on the motor.I've read that unless you can do your own head work.There's no way you can beat a good set of Alum heads all done.I know I want it all.I just want to run fast and have the motor last more then a year. Dan I'm thinking around 6000rpm or 6500 at most.For a mostly street car.I dont care if I have to run 91 gas,if it means more power. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 08-19-2003).]
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ccode67
Gearhead Posts: 3285
From: douglasville,ga,usa
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 07:48 AM
Ron, heres my combo,
'69 351w .030 over
I used a rebuild "kit" from Summit with forged pistons with 11cc dish @ .020 below deck.
Edelbrock RPM heads #6022, 60cc chamber,
RPM intake,
RPM cam (496/520, 224/234 @ .050)
Final compression is 9.89 to 1,
Total cost of parts and machine work was $2300, assembled myself.
This combo runs real good and is completely street worthy with 91 octane.
I've done open track, autocross, and drag racing with this engine.
Drag strip, 1/4, 13.63 @ 105.88
1/8, 8.60 @ 85.22, These times are street tires and spinning. With slicks and some "driver practice" it should go in the 12's easy.------------------
Stuart
MCA #48902
M&M #1091
67 stang 5 speed, 351W,
Edelbrock Performer RPM package my photo page
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 09:56 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Eric I really dont care about the HP number it's the ET's.
If I only get 350hp but can run low 13's to 12's I'd be real happy.
I also have to keep this motor low dollar.So if I can do it for less then $2000 thats even better.
I'll know about the money for sure in about 2 weeks or so.I'll call some shops after I have the money ready.If it's all a go I'll email Alex for some of the other parts.
Hey Ron, I really meant not to skimp on the low end. The last thing you want is to spend a few grand on a motor that will last 2-3 times down the track or 100 street miles. This was what I was replying to... quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
What about just putting some heads and larger cam on my used short block.
Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored [This message has been edited by rockafellz (edited 08-19-2003).]
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 11:26 AM
quote:
Originally posted by ccode67:
Ron, heres my combo,
'69 351w .030 over
I used a rebuild "kit" from Summit with forged pistons with 11cc dish @ .020 below deck.
Edelbrock RPM heads #6022, 60cc chamber,
RPM intake,
RPM cam (496/520, 224/234 @ .050)
Final compression is 9.89 to 1,
Total cost of parts and machine work was $2300, assembled myself.
This combo runs real good and is completely street worthy with 91 octane.
I've done open track, autocross, and drag racing with this engine.
Drag strip, 1/4, 13.63 @ 105.88
1/8, 8.60 @ 85.22, These times are street tires and spinning. With slicks and some "driver practice" it should go in the 12's easy.
Thanks that sounds real close to what I'm looking for.I think I might go with the 282S or the 292H cam. "forged pistons with 11cc dish @ .020 below deck." Can someone explain this to me???
I really don't know what it all means.  ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 08-22-2003).]
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 11:29 AM
Erik I knew what your were saying.I'm not sure what kinda shape the bottom end is in right now?
I was just kinda thinking out loud.What if the low end is ok for now.I could just do the top end?
I need to do a copression check,are there any other things I can do to check it out.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 12:04 PM
Well, I honestly don't know how to isolate how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber. If I remember correctly, your current motor burns some oil. If you guys have taught me right it could be the valve seals or the piston rings. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 12:22 PM
It does alittle burn oil,and smokes alittle when you get into it.The threads of the plugs all have oil on them too.But never on the first two threads ?
My brother inlaw tells me it's the from the heads.I dont know ???
------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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kopps67
Journeyman Posts: 33
From: maple valley,wa,98038
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 08-19-2003 12:23 PM
Here's my combo:
351w 030
stock rods/forged pistons w 13cc dish
69 351 w heads ported 1.94/1.6 valves heads milled 040
10.25-1 compression
isky 270-280 mega cam
650 dp/victor jr manifold
approx $2000-2500 for all machine work/parts
best et to date 11.77 @ 112mphMark
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-19-2003 12:44 PM
I think the 282S is a good choice for a bracket motor. Throw on a set of mild aftermarket heads like the FMS X303. They are selling pretty reasonable on Ebay and are good for over 400HP on a 351 easily. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2428595900&category=33617 Don't even think about not freshening your shortblock. The new found HP will finish it off quickly. ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)full street trim!
DanH
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ccode67
Gearhead Posts: 3285
From: douglasville,ga,usa
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-20-2003 07:46 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
"forged pistons with 11cc dish @ .020 below deck." Can someone ep;ain this to me???
I really don't know what it all means.
With the early (69/70) block the deck height is lower, the pistons (L2446) were .018 above the block (way too close). I had the pistons cut so they were .020 under the top of the cylinder.
I was going to go with them @ zero (flush with the deck) but the compression would have been 10.6 (memory ?? )If they would have cleared @ .018 above compression was 11.8
Most recommendations are for .040 clearance between piston and head (Waddel Wilson's book), gasket thickness is .038 compressed. My goal for this engine was to run pump gas, it never pings on premium. Maybe I should have gone a little closer. ------------------
Stuart
MCA #48902
M&M #1091
67 stang 5 speed, 351W,
Edelbrock Performer RPM package my photo page
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-21-2003 09:03 PM
What do you guys think of this company,and are these heads worth it.
http://www.smedingperformance.com/hipocylinderhead.htm
------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 08-21-2003 09:48 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
What do you guys think of this company,and are these heads worth it.
http://www.smedingperformance.com/hipocylinderhead.htm
NO, That isn't gonna get the job done. Maybe if they port them to a "stage 2 or 3" but that'll probably cost another $500+ in labor. SteveW
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-22-2003 01:18 AM
Ok I'll keep saving. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-22-2003 06:50 AM
My cheap windsor motor circa 1990
1969 block .030 w/oil restrictors
DO heads w/1.94 1.60 valves, screw in studs and guide plates, mild portingFlat tappet Cran cam: 252/[email protected], .571/.590, 108
truck rods w/ pioneer bolts, polished and shot peened
speed pro 11.2:1 pistons
stock crank
street dominator intake
holley 750 vac secondary carb
stock distributor w/ light springs
hardened ford motorsport pushrods (a steal at $25.00/set)
Crane Hi Energy rockers
Total money, including carburetor, was $2100.00. I think today it could probably be built even cheaper or about the same price. This motor has ran a best of 11.18 at around 117-118mph in my 3100lb '67, and has in the neighborhood of 500 passes plus street miles. The motor's still together and never had any problems with it. With a slightly milder cam and with a set of flat-tops, I would think this combo could tickle the hi 11's on 94 octane.
[This message has been edited by Rustang (edited 08-22-2003).]
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1821
From: Hurricane alley
Registered: May 2002
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posted 08-22-2003 10:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
"forged pistons with 11cc dish @ .020 below deck." Can someone ep;ain this to me???
I really don't know what it all means.
Be very careful with those pistons. I think they are the same one's I used before and the skirts cracked. If the oil ring-land has a long opening "about as long as the skirt" and NOT individual holes drilled then don't use them.
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-22-2003 12:48 PM
I've never rebuilt a motor. I understand how the parts work together. I know most of the names for all the parts. I don't fully understand what parts work best with what other parts.
Some of things I don't fully understand 11cc pistons I know this is a measurement but foe what?,flattop why use them? Shot peened rods why, Sorry I'm not trying to drive you guys crazy. Just that I've learned so much over the last few years. I want to learn more. I don't want to just put parts in my motor because they work they best. I'd like to understand why they work the best, why I'm using this part over another. Are there any good book that can help learn about this stuff too.
I know some of my questions are dumb. But I'm getting somewhere with all of them.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 08-22-2003).]
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ccode67
Gearhead Posts: 3285
From: douglasville,ga,usa
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-22-2003 01:05 PM
Scoop, the 11cc measure is the size of the dish in the top of the piston, you use this measure subtacted from the total swept volume of the cylinder when calculating the compression ratio. I would have to look up the formula to do the calculation, it's pretty complicated and you need some equipment to do it.
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-22-2003 01:19 PM
Time for a high-performance clinic
"11cc" - the volume displaced by the piston dome, or additional volume added in the case of a dished piston. If a piston is "dished" it would have a valley carved into the top of it. In order to quantify the size of this valley, you need to measure it's volume. This is expressed in cc's (cubic centimeters). Most of the time dished volumes are expressed as negative values, while dome volumes are expressed as positive values.Flat tops: "domed" pistons for years have been used to raise compression in performance engines. However the dome blocks flame travel during combustion. That hurts horsepower. The problem with Dished pistons is they cut compression. Flat tops are normally the best compromise since they won't block flame travel without hurting compression ratio considerably. Shot-peening- The process is similar to sandblasting except small metal shot is used. The connected rods are blasted with this shot, and it "compresses" the metal's surface, making it less prone to failure. (I've got a paper somewhere from Chevrolet where they improved strength of their "bow-tie" rods by almost 30% by shot-peening)
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-22-2003 01:41 PM
Thanks guys please add any more info if you can.I always like to learn as much as I can.Before I get into to something.Mike no mail ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 08-22-2003).]
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-22-2003 02:14 PM
nothing yet ron?? i sent it to the mattstore one.------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-22-2003 05:25 PM
I got it Mike but it didn't work.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-26-2003 01:03 PM
Would a 270S cam be enoungh CAM ?
Also would it clear the stock pistons ?How hard are heads to rebuild with new valve seals and seats ?
And I'd want to put screw in studs too. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 08-26-2003 11:07 PM
I think it would clear stock pistons with up to 1.94 intakes, but the ole wise guy would know for sure Not sure it'd be enough 'stick. Again, ask the man I'll talk to my machinist tomorrow, see how much he could snazz up your castings, and how much $ ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-02-2003 01:40 PM
I'm getting closer I have saved alittle money and rest should in soon.If my bonus comes in a few weeks.
I still need to find a good shop in town.I have asked around and every one has a different opinion. 
The motor has to be done for $2500 or less.
I really want to get my car into the 12's with the 3.40 gears and rest the car the way it is now.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-02-2003 03:57 PM
EMBARRASSED to say this but I really don't know what to ask for when I take my motor in.The times I've gone to the shops in town they just look at me like I'm a dummy.
If I'm having them do just the short will they still check for valve clearence for me ?
Also do I bring the old motor in bare or complete ?
I know they are dumb questions.But I like to at least look like I know what I'm doing when I go in there. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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