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Author Topic:   starting problem
Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1718
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 05-16-2003 02:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
allright i tried to turn my car over again today, however with not good results. When i turn the key all i get is a loud "TICK" noise. I checked out the starter and it seems to be fine. It's seems just like the starter isn't getting any power. The battery is well charged. Would it possibly be the starter solenoid, and if so where can i get a new/replacement one??

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1974 Gran Torino, 351W

Just a young buck My Page

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1718
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 05-16-2003 02:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
could it possibly be the starter brushes instead??

i have no idea, it turned over fine yesterday

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65_302
Gearhead

Posts: 261
From: Bixby, OK
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 05-16-2003 08:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65_302   Click Here to Email 65_302     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Solenoid or regulator. Should be able to buy either, or both, at your local parts store. If the starter or battery is suspect, now is a good time to have them bench tested. The O'Reilly's around here will test both and the alternator without charging.

You could jump across the Solenoid to see it that is the problem. Can't remember exactly how to do that, but someone here will tell you.

Let me know how it comes out.

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2398
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 05-16-2003 08:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
when 12 volts is applied to the S terminal of the solenoid, it engages and sends power to the starter. Now try using a wire to go from battery + to the S terminal. You will be able to hear where the click is coming from.

DONT try using a small wire to jump from the batter to the starter cable, there is a reason why those cables are so thick, they need to handle a lot of cranking amps...

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'68 coupe 289 C code
66 heads, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust

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mustangboy
Gearhead

Posts: 774
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-16-2003 11:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangboy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I use a pair of non coated metal pliers for doing this test.Just touch the end of one handle on the battery side of the solonoid and the other handle on the starter cable side.Be prepared for some sparks flying but the tighter you hold the pliers against them the less sparks.Also check your ground cable to make sure it is tight and making a good ground.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18703
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 05-16-2003 11:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Your battery should be at 12.5 not just 12 volts.
Also like Mustangboy said I'd get the cable connections,both the ground and positive.
Clean the area where the ground goes to the motor too.

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SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1718
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 05-16-2003 04:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The battery is a new battery, and reads over 12 on the charger, but it has a wide band, so i can't tell if it's 12.5 exactly or not. The battery connecters are also new, and everything else including radio, horn and lights all work fine.

And it doesn't seem like a battery problem, it's a single very loud tick.

Gonna go try arcing the solenoid

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 05-16-2003).]

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1718
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 05-16-2003 05:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
no tick, no spark

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johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 5855
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 05-16-2003 06:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Change the solenoid and the starter, if you can, get the starter bench tested first before you spend money on a new one.

JOHN

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65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
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Tea'sGrabber
Gearhead

Posts: 276
From: Seattle, Wash.
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 05-16-2003 08:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tea'sGrabber   Click Here to Email Tea'sGrabber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Do you own a Voltmeter???? Sure makes electrical gremlins easier!! New batteries aren't always good... If it isn't sitting with12.7 fresh or droppes below 11.5 when you hit the key it's a dead player. I'm betting on solenoid. What happens if you try to jumpstart it??

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Todd 71 Mav Grabber All orig 306 cu.in. Cast Iron heads. Carillo Rods.Best et. 10.71 @ 124 thru the mufflers.

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RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 827
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 05-17-2003 01:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Try turning on the headlights then try and turn the engine over. When you here the click if the lights go out or very dim you have a bad connection somewhere. If the lights do not change your solenoid is bad.

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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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