Naw, I don't think that I would know how to do make one work.

psssst, Steve, e-mail me.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

quote:

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Originally posted by Glens67:
I have used a piece of 3/4 rebar about 4' long jab one end into the tire at the back side then hook it through the bumper, back up about 2' and that should make a very good tire hook.
Hope this helps
Glen.

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Glen,

You're fitting in real well.

Thanks again for your tips.

I finished the rear tonight. 3/4" space on the left t-bar snubber and 1" space on the right. Front 1/2 of the springs clamped tight with 3 clamps each, left Rancho shock at one click and two clicks on the right. Two step set at 4200rpm, 6+ degrees of pinion angle and 15 psi in the slicks and I'll save the front end adjustments for the morning.

If you read this from Iowa, e-mail me your number again, I left it at work.

Good luck and in case you didn't know it you really are "da man"

SteveW

Just keep in mind the fact that you are trying to hook up a ton of torque.

Alex uses 30" tall tires, who's tall sidewalls will absorb the shock from the transbrake. You are dealing with extremely short sidewalls from your 26x10 tires... that will not absorb nearly as much of a shockload.

I have struggled with my car trying to get it to hook up. Getting a mustang to hook up with a stickshift and nitrous isn't easy. It takes a good setup AND a good track. Most places don't spend the money to prep a track during test and tune.... They aren't making as much money, plus there are too many radial tired cars who ruin the surface. Chances are, you'll need to go on race day to get a good surface.

You might have better luck launching without the transbrake. Alex's 9000 rpm 289 NEEDS to launch with a transbrake and a converter that will stall PAST your shift point to make his car work, but your torque monster 408 might have better luck getting traction by footbraking. You could do this, or start cutting the quarters out for taller tires....

I tried clamps and stiffer settings in an effort to make my car 60ft better, but just ended up going backwards. If a car is getting plenty of traction, stiffening up the rear end will make it more efficient. Less energy goes into making the rear suspension move, and more goes into making it go forward.... BUT if the car is making more torque than the tires can deal with, there's got to be some give somewhere. Pro drag racers who use stick shifts rely on clutches that slip a little before hooking up. Using a suspension that will move and absorb some of the shock will also help.

Ideally, you'd use a really soft set of leaf springs (which are often too flimsy to properly locate everything on launch), then ladder bars or something to precisely locate the axle and keep everything in place. It's going to be tough trying to use ONLY a set of leaf springs to properly spring the car AND keep everything correctly located during launch.

Get fancy with the rear suspension, get some bigger tires, try and kill a little torque on launch with an igniton retard in 1st gear, or find a stickier track to play on.

Good Luck!

I've managed a best 1.43 second 60ft launching on the bottle (this was with regular slapper bars and KYB gas shocks in the rear)... but it took a WELL prepared track. On test and tunes, it's usually in the high 1.5's to low 1.6's. The Ranchos (that I've been using lately) work best on their lowest setting, and fairly stiff springs are needed to keep the rear end properly located. The tires are 28x9 slicks. The car ran a best 60ft of 1.46 seconds with a set of Hoosier 26x10's.

My car weighs 3300lbs with driver, and has no ladder bars or anything fancy.

Try not to get the rear end too far in the air when the car is sitting still... That kills load transfer.

Good Luck!

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

quote:

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Originally posted by steve'66:

BTW Melissa added another 1st place trophy to her collection today.

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Way cool! Way to go Melissa! Glad to hear you guys are getting a handle on getting the car to hook.

quote:

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Originally posted by steve'66:
It used to raise up the same front and rear "like an old Mopar" LOL

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quote:

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Originally posted by steve'66:


BTW Melissa added another 1st place trophy to her collection today.

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Way togo Melissa,thats cool that you let your your Dad help out.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede.

quote:

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Originally posted by Buster:
My 68 has alwasy lifted alot in the rear, off the line. Should this be corrected, if so, how?

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This is the rear suspension 'giving' under the stress of launch. In a car that is traction limited, this can be a good thing. That 'give' helps keep the tires from spinning. A car that has an abundance of traction can 60ft faster by eliminating all that movement. A stiffer rear suspension can take that energy and re-direct it into making the car move forward.

This movement can be limited by using stiffer springs and shock settings. Clamping the springs will also stiffen the rear end up.

Personally, my car's tires deal with some pretty harsh shockloads, and the car needs all the 'absorbtion' it can get. My shocks are on a soft setting, and there are no spring clamps. I've tried that, and ended up going backwards.

Ideally, a person would use a 'drag race' suspension system in the rear that would allow plenty of tuning. Best results are usually had using ladder bars or a 4-Link to control and 'locate' the rearend. This allows really light springs to be used. With the light springs, a GOOD quality fully adjustable shock can be used to adjust for track conditions. Soft settings are used when traction is poor and the rear end needs to move in order to absorb energy, stiffer ones are used when there is plenty of 'bite' to direct the maximum amount of energy into making the car go forward.

One just has to keep the total amount of suspension travel available in mind. Leaf springs generally provide plenty, but 4-links and ladder bars don't move that much. Most coil over shocks used with these devices have a TOTAL range of motion between 5"-7". 7" is rare. Most are closer to 5". That means, the suspension can only move 2.5" up, and 2.5" down... IF the shock is centered in it's travel with the car sitting at the line.

If the suspension tries to move further than the shock will allow (it bottoms or tops out) the suspension will become unloaded and the tires will spin. The back of the car might even start to bounce.

Video taping each run from a good perspective, and STUDYING the suspension movements is paramount in dialing in the suspension.

I began accumulating the parts required to install a 4-link in the mustang. I've got pretty much everything, including the 4-link, teflon rod ends, frame, 7" travel shocks, etc... I just haven't had the heart to cut into the car yet. I might just keep the mustang as it is and cut up a Fox body coupe or something... Maybe an RX-7 or a small car like that. ???? Any ideas?

Good Luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:

Video taping each run from a good perspective, and STUDYING the suspension movements is paramount in dialing in the suspension.

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Taping mine was the only way I could get it dialed in and I'm still working on it. I'm gonna see if a little ballast in the trunk can help me get in the 1.4's and I'll be happy for a street car.

Steve I was able to fit some 28 by 10.5's under my 67. It's a little tight but they do fit. That extra tire height would add a little more contact patch for you. Are you still running the 3.89 gears and the ET streets?

Later!!

67-68 mustangs are great to work with. They still aren't that heavy, and have more room in the engine compartment and rear wheel area.

Good Luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:
If the suspension tries to move further than the shock will allow (it bottoms or tops out) the suspension will become unloaded and the tires will spin. The back of the car might even start to bounce.

Video taping each run from a good perspective, and STUDYING the suspension movements is paramount in dialing in the suspension.

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It's funny you said that. It would bounce before I changed the front shocks and rear springs. The front shocks wouldn't adjust properly, to stiff. It looked cool, but I am sure it was affecting the 60' times.

I can get away with as much as 28" tall tires. I will try some of those ideas and let you know.

I just got my new cam in and piston cutters from Isky. So, I have alot of work ahead engine wize first.

I might take it out before I make the cam change, just to see how the small cam worked.

btw, on a good track, I can get 1.43 short times, with the old engine. This engine should be making alot more power. What is the best 60' I can expect out of a 68 Stang with slapper bars?

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

quote:

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Originally posted by Moneymaker:
...If you can't get some spring perches with bronze busings...let me know.

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Alex, I know what they say about, "If ya gotta ask", but I've gotta -- how much do they cost?
Would they have a grease zert in them?

Ryan

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator