Here's what I want to accomplish:
-Get the motor to idle nicely at around 800-900 rpms
-Set the idle mixture w/ vacuum gauge
-Check the initial and total timing, adjust if necessary.

Here's what I need to know:
-Where do I hook up the vacuum gauge? I have an RPM airgap intake on this 289.
-Is this the correct procedure for checking my timing?: Find TDC, hook up timing light, start motor and check initial timing at idle, rev it up to about 4000 rpms to check the total timing? If my memory serves me, the engine builder set the initial at 14* and the MSD distributor has a 21* bushing in it for a total of 35*.
-Any other tips for getting the idle speed and mixture set, I've never tuned a Holley carb. All I've done is read a book on tuning them.

Thanks.

You want to take a vacuum reading from a direct manifold source, like the baseplate if your manifold doesn't have a vacuum port.

To find tdc, use your piston stop and with all plugs removed turn the engine around until it stops then mark the spot, and turn it around the other way til it stops and mark the spot again. TDC is centered between your two marks. If your damper doesn't have the marks out to 40+ btdc then buy a timing tape and put it on your damper. Don't run the vacumm advance, make it all centrifical advance. 14-35 sounds fine, have it all come in by 3000 rpms or so. To do that you'll have to use lighter springs on the centrifical advance's weights.

To tune the carb hook your vac gauge to manifold vacumm. I use the pcv hose and shove the vac gauges tube into it (works for me). Adjust the idle screws equally until you see max vacumm, the idle rpm will increase too, so readjust your idle speed and do it again looking for max vacumm. Recheck your initial timing and idle speed and the readjust the idle screws again for max. vacumm. That should do it, unless you have a vacumm leak. Good luck and keep us posted. Can you repost the pic of your engine with its specs for others to see?

Also, after you broke in your cam did you readjust the valve lash? It is a solid lifter cam isn't it? If you didn't, now is the time, after you warm up the engine of course.

SteveW

289 .030 over, stock crank and rods, main studs, milodon pan and windage tray, Bigs 650 double pumper mechanical w/ no choke, RPM Airgap intake, AFR 185 heads, Comp solid 236/242 @ .050, .536/.544 Lift 108 sep., KB Hypers 10.5:1 (I pray they don't disenegrate anytime soon!) MSD box, distributor & coil. Hooker supercomps.

Nope, I haven't reset the valve lash SteveW. Should I do that first?

Then yes, the valve lash is next.

Nice looking engine!

What SteveL said!

The KB's will be fine for what you're doing, don't worry about them unless you drop a valve.

Beautifull 289 BTW!

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede.

I don't think the motor is running lean, when I first started it up, the temp came up to 185* and held steady right there. If it was really lean it would have been hotter than that wouldn't it? I don't recall the jetting on the carb right now but Bigs should have me close.

SteveL, when you say be conservative w/ the timing does that mean not to advance it too much? What range should I stay within?

Will I then need to put a different advance stop bushing in the distributor that allows more centrifugal advance to make up for it? What should my total timing be?