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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

Is that your scoop,or are just happy to see me.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

Is that your scoop,or are just happy to see me.

quote:

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Originally posted by capri man:
that dist. should be fine. the gear should be fine unless you have a roller cam.

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Do they make different gears,beside for a roller or not?
Like the amount of teeth do they change.
I think my cam rolls,I hope it's not flat.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

Is that your scoop,or are just happy to see me.

>edit< and do you care about gas mileage?

You should know if you have a true roller cam or not because of the roller wheel on the bottom of your lifters.

quote:

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Originally posted by bluestreek:
Steel Roller cams (solid or hydraulic) require rollerized lifters, and a bronze or steel dist. gear. Flat tappet cams (solid or hyd.) and some street roller cams (Comp Cams street roller) are iron and will use a stock cast iron gear. The difference is not so much in the in the number of teeth, but in the way 2 types of metal will wear against each other.

You should know if you have a true roller cam or not because of the roller wheel on the bottom of your lifters.

BS

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Thanks I know I dont have a roller cam.It's all stock that I know of.Thanks for the info,sorry I'm such a smart *** most of the time.

Buster,
it's a electronic ignition,by Pertronix add in kit.I was going to get another stock rebuilt dist,and put my same pertronix kit in it too.
And gas milage is not that big of a deal.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

Is that your scoop,or are just happy to see me.

surely not you scoop!!!!! hee hee

It will have two sides on the advance limiter, one with more advance and one with less. This part can be removed turned 180 to add or subtract total mechanical advance. There is a clip in the center of the shaft that the rotor sits on to remove the upper shaft. The upper shaft is part of the advance limiter and has springs to limit how soon you get total mechanical advance.

The lighter the spring is the sooner you will get total mechanical advance. Most speed shops sell the spring kits and they are very cheap. I try to get total mechanical advance in by 2500 rpm. So, If the distributor you have now has the advance your looking for, then use it in the new distributor or vice versa.

Adjust the mechanical advance this way:

Say your base timing is set at 10 deg. Watch your timing while you increase the engine rpm, with the vacuum advance disconnected. So, lets say your mechanical limiter is stamped 8, that will give you a total of 16 deg mechanical advance. See what rpm you get Base + Mechanical for a total of 26 deg. Change the springs to get it close to the 2500 mark.

The vacuum advance is the same, multiply the stamped number by 2. Also, if it's a MotorCraft vacuum advance, it will have a allen set screw in the vacuum hole, so you can adjust it. Be careful not to back the set screw out too far.... Once it gets hard to turn, STOP.

Adjust the Vacuum Advance this way:

With the engine idling, use a vacuum pump and apply full vacuum to the advance. If you don't have a vacuum pump then use manifold vacuum. Subtract the base amount of advance from the total, base - total = total vacuum advance. To reduce vacuum advance back the screw out. Be careful not to back the set screw out too far.... Once it gets hard to turn, STOP!

Example: Total, at idle full vacuum, is (26) - Base (10) = Vacuum advance (16)

Some after-market vacuum advances are adjustable as well. So, when your looking for a distributor, look for these things.

This is the way I setup a distributor for a street/strip distributor wo/EGR:

Base timing around 10 - 14 deg
Mechanical advance 16 - 18 deg
Vacuum advance 12 - 16 deg

So, your total timing, at cruse, would be from 38 to 48. How much total timing you set it for is going to depend on the fuel you use. I have gone as high as 48 with Amoco 97. These are base line numbers, a starting point. If your engine has a ping when you TIP IN, like if your on the highway and crown a hill apx 1/8 to 1/3 throttle, then back off the vacuum advance. If your engine pings under WOT, wide open throttle, the back off the base timing. I always try to get max timing, when it starts to ping... then back it down.

Under full throttle you will loose most if not all of your vacuum advance and that will decrease your total timing to around 26 to 32, depending on your setup. If your going to take it to the track, then disconnect the vacuum advance and bump up the base timing to get what ever works for you current setup.

Right now I ran my car at 16 base,and it jumps to 28-30 at 2800-3000rpm,with or with out the vacuum advanced hooked up.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

Is that your scoop,or are just happy to see me.

If you get a reman distributor, make sure it has an adjustable vacuum advance and stamped between 6 to 8.

Then I would back your base timing down.

Remember that you will have base plus the vacuum advance at idle. btw, run manifold vacuum to the advance.

So, that would put you between base 10 (+ -) and vacuum advance 12 to 16 for a total of 22 to 26 at idle. That will give you a very strong idle.

Having less base will help starting the engine when hot.