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Author Topic:   9" Questions Cont.
MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 234
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 02-15-2002 12:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alrighty folks... after prowling through junkyards for the past couple days, rooting around in cold stinking mud underneath rusty pickups, I managed to find me a 9" rearend in a '79 4x4 Bronco with a 3L50 tag. I got'em down to $170 and brought it home. I pulled one axle tonight and it's a 31 spline. The other axle is really tough and I'm gonna have to rent a puller or something, unless you all can advise me otherwise. Anyhow, I've got a few questions.

Is there any advantage to narrowing the rearend narrower than stock (66 Mustang). What is the ideal drum to drum width for a 66 Mustang? I'm planning to roll in the fender lips and pack as much rubber under there as possible without relocating leaf springs. Probably run a set of Weld wheels or something.

I've been talking with a guy who sets up 9" rearends and here's his prices.
narrow the housing = $75
new ring and pinion, new clutches in diff., new bearings etc. and assemble center = $350
set of moser axles and bearings = $380

Thanks alot fellas!!
Matt

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Mario428
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 02-15-2002 06:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mario428   Click Here to Email Mario428     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
From a drag racing point of view the narrower the housing the better. Since a wheel of a certain width weighs the same regardless of offset the trend is to buy a wheel with the least backspacing. This makes the housing the narrowest & lightest reducing unsprung weight.
The next thing and most important when building a rearend to suit a car BUY WHEELS & TIRES FIRST !!!!!. I got trapped by this myself the last time I backhalfed my car. I borrowed wheels and tires that were close and now my current combination is too close. When you figure out where the most whell & tire sits then make the housing fit since you are buying custom axles anyway.

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27499
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-15-2002 10:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
1) Bolt a brake drum on backwards then as gently as possible pound the axle out by tapping on the drum 360 degrees.
2) 48 inches housing flange to housing flange is the std 65-66 Mustang width.
3) Good price on the rebuild and new gear.
4) 31 spline Ford axles are plenty strong.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
US Class Nationals link

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rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1446
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-11-2002 10:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Alex,

Do you happen to know the spring seat to spring seat length by any chance?

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27499
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 09-11-2002 10:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Check the archives Erik. There was a thread with rear end dimentions.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA/MCA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."

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rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1446
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-11-2002 11:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Found it shortly after I posted it. Thanks

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesFordRears.html

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

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RPM289
Gearhead

Posts: 155
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 09-11-2002 11:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RPM289   Click Here to Email RPM289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Where did they measure from to get those deminsions? I thought a Versailles was the correct width for a 66 Mustang with no rework just bolt in.

Thanks,

------------------
Mike

66' Mustang,289,4 speed overdrive.
95' Lightning #2218
65' Mustang,Tubbed, Rear cage ladder bars / coil over's, 5.13:1 N-case 9in.31 spline, 302, C4.

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MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 234
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 09-11-2002 01:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The rearend widths on that chart are measured from drum to drum (where the wheel would touch the drum). According to the chart the Versailles rearend is only about 5/8" wider on each side than the Mustang, it'd work fine, could go with a little more backspacing to fit the largest wheel/tires combos with it I guess.

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TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 6120
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 09-11-2002 02:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
in my experience a width a couple inches narrower is ideal. The wheels are easier to find in that backspacing if the rear end is 55" to 56" drum to drum. Much narrower and the brakes are kinda close to the springs.

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2954
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 09-11-2002 11:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got a question. if your going to all the trouble of narrowing a rear end why can't you relocate the springs? Just a thought.

Jerry

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2494
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 09-12-2002 11:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mario428:
...From a drag racing point of view the narrower the housing the better. Since a wheel of a certain width weighs the same regardless of offset the trend is to buy a wheel with the least backspacing. This makes the housing the narrowest & lightest reducing unsprung weight....

Hey Guys:
I always thought that a 8" or more wide wheel with very little backspacing presented a problem with even tire contact patch, that the weight distribution on the the tire patch would be less at the out-board edge of the tire patch. In other words, if you had a 10" wide rim, ideally you'd want 5" of backspacing to put equal weight distribution on the tire patch.

I'm I wrong (again)?

...I understand the idea of less unsprung weight with a shorter housing, but thought that the weight issue was less of an issue than the equal pressure on the tire patch...

Ryan

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stang106
Gearhead

Posts: 786
From: God's Country!... Port Alberni B.C. Canada
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 09-12-2002 11:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stang106   Click Here to Email stang106     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've had axles in so tight it broke my slide-hammer. I put a chain on the stud and looped the other end around a 14lb sledge hammer and swung it like Babe Ruth! Axle came out.
Dave

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