Most of you know Melissa's H.S. bracket car, but for those who don't;

It's a 3060# w/driver 351w perf rpm headed 750 holley etc, 4 speed, 4.11 9" trac loc, M/T et streets, spare and tools in trunk, no back seat, glass hood, battery up front, gas shocks in frt, Rancho 9000s in back, frame tied, steel wheels, 205-60s in front, weight balance; 56% front, 44% rear, etc.

The problem is the car won't hook! It runs high 12s usually w/ 1.9-2.0 60'ers @ 108 mph corked up. It's run better but these are the norm on a Wed night, sometimes 13.0s w/ 2.1 60'ers. With an extra $1,000 or so to throw at it, what are most benificial mods??? You know, the most "bang for the buck"? Cal tracks, skinnies, good shocks in the fromt, new front springs, battery in trunk, glass front bumper??? What will work to give us solid 1.7 60'ers and solid mid 12's? That's not too much to ask is it? Esp. since it's not a daily driver anymore, it's an occasiomal driver now. Please give me your comments, (if you don't wanna post, then e-mail me) but we need to know how to make this thing bite, on a budget!

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!

In this order:
Cal-Tracs!! $320
Battery to trunk $60 ($30 for cable,$30 for cutoff switch)
Good shocks up front. $100-$200
Real slicks. The ET Streets are much better than a street tire, but they are not just a slick with a little tread. Different compound and sidewalls are twice as thick/stiff. $300

Later,

But, did I mention that slicks aren't allowed. We gotta do this on DOT tires. We know it can be done 'cause there's a crapmaro running the same tires + skinnies and slapper bars running 1.68 60's and 12.2s at the same mph!?!

It used (and still uses) cheap Competition Engineering front 90/10 shocks, which are around $35 each. These are adjustable, and I set them to the setting where they extend the easiest, and compress the hardest. The front springs are still the original V8 35 year old stockers... and are quite mushy.

By all means, move the battery to the rear. Install it over the right rear tire and move it as far rearward as possible. It's also a good idea to move the starter solonoid to the rear too. That way there isn't a heavy gauge (always hot) wire snaking it's way to the front of the vehicle. If a battery cable sized wire were to short itself out, it could catch the car on fire. Move the battery, then move the solonoid.

In the past I used a good set of slapper bars... the ones that replaced the lower spring mounting plates. The U-bolts are what attach them. I later changed to Cal-Tracs and had zero improvement. Your results may vary.

A good set of rear springs is also necessary. I used 4-leaf "GT" springs. These were a bit stiffer than stock, and stood up to launches quite well. 35 year old stock springs just aren't up to the stresses of 4-speed launches on slicks. Get some new springs.

Rear shocks were stiff (and cheap) KYB units... Yes, the same ones that can be purchased for $119 for a set of 4. They were left over from the "road race" days and came with a handling kit that used to be on the car.

Does the car have a 2-step rev limiter? In not GET ONE!!! This allows for consistent stick shift launches. You can launch at the exact same rpm every time. But, the best thing about it in my opinion, is that it allows the car to be launched at that rpm with the throttle WIDE F***ing OPEN. If the car can't be launched this way it WILL bog once it starts to get traction. I consider a 2-step mandatory on a stick car.

Be sure to launch it HARD. Most likely, you will need 31 spline axles. A Detroit Locker is best, but a 4-pinion Trac-Loc will do if the clutches are good.

I always launch near redline with the throttle buried.... which is required for best results. (at least with a 302) The 351 might have enough torque to be launched a little lower, but not much.

With stock wheelwells, the largest slick that can be used is a 26x10. An equivalent sized ET-Street would be advertised wider since they are marketed by the sidewall width. Look at the specs and compare to the slicks to see which is needed. I had no problems running a 26x8.5 slick into the 11's.

Stiffen up the rear, move the battery to the back, loosen up the front shocks, and launch it HARD!

My best 60ft with the above combo is a 1.43 with a 150hp shot of nitrous (activated on launch) that resulted in a 6.74 @ 103 in the 1/8. The car pulled the front wheels first -and- second gears! Of course, the track had excellent preparation and gobs of VHT, but the car has NEVER cut 60ft time higher than 1.6's or very low 1.7's on any track off the bottle.

Good Luck!

I've watched the car and it really does try to work but the front seems too stiff and it unloads the rear....I've gone as quick as 1.44 60' in my car with a slapper bar, granted it has a slick on it, but a slapper bar can be made to work well in the 1.6-1.7 range.

I forget what you have in it for ignition, but a low side rev limiter would help in consistency and add another tuning tool. I know for me, the less things I have to think/worry about, the better I am in the car....a 2-step just adds to my confidence level.

I'm not sure how much a glass bumper is worth on an early Mustang, but I can tell you this....The biggest single regret I have with my car is not having fiberglass readily available and having a real fight to get the car under 3000lbs. If/when I do it again, I'll start with a lighter car and throw every fiberglass, aluminum, plastic, titanium, ultra lightweight piece that I can get my hands on and the budget allows. That also includes using moly tube instead of mild steel....I use up way too much power trying to overcome the weight of the car. That's the bottom line for me.

Steve & MelissaW

p.s. Axles are Moser 28 spline and 4 spider trac-loc. Trac loc could be set up tighter, sometimes on a dry 2nd gear burn out only one tire smokes. If we can get 'em wet they both burn fine.

quote:

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Originally posted by Doc:
Steve if you look close at the pic I took at the Wed Tom was down from that other country only one tire was movin in the water, take some of all that extra cash and put a kit in the rear

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Doc,

By 'kit' do you mean new clutches and tightening it up or a detroit locker?

SteveW

p.s. I'll get the answers out of you guys if I have to pull it out in single sylables! LOL

I agree with you, a spool or even a "lincoln locker" does not wait to hook the opposite axle during a burnout. A trac-lock does, except that the cluthes smooth the transition. I run detroit lockers in my 4X4's, but not the S/S car(s).

I wasn't able to try any of your tips this week, because I spent this Saturday fixing the body damage caused by the Dodge Boy a couple weeks ago. But I will next w/e. Thanks again for the tips, and if anyone has any others please join in!

Not a big deal. I changed the tail light panel, rear valance, and rear bumper today. Total of $242 in parts delivered + 6 hours labor (free). That net's 1500 or so for a new paint job. I told Melissa to get a bumper sticker that says "hit me I need the money" LOL
So now it's a tri-colored 'stang! Soon to be a silver w/blue shelby striped 'stang. I shot it the last two times in my garage, but I'd like to have it done professionally this time. Not a "show car" job, just a nice clear coated paint job. I'll do the prep, and trailer it to a shop. Do you know anyone in N.Ca. that will shoot it cheap? I've got a couple in mind. Thanks guys!

I have the cheapy Comp Eng. front shocks on my car...its rides smooth and handles fine at 133mph. They work excellent,car settles very quickly,rarely ever bounces the wheels back off the ground in 2nd. The 6 cyl original springs sit the front end pretty low but the car never lands hard from a wheelstand... except for that time i did a dry hop (flattened pan)

This is excelent stuff! Last season when the car was getting squirely I posted the prob, but didn't get any sound advice so we took the good stuff off until it was safe again!

Quote fron TomP "Also make sure the front end has some caster. this may mean shimming the upper arms at the front mounting bolts to tip them back and pulling the strut rods all the way forward, this should keep the car from getting squirrely.Lowering the upper control arms (like Shelby's)also help keep the front tires more perpendicular. Shocks should be extended, this can be done by making the top mounts shorter,kinda like flat plates,with the wheels hanging the shock should top out,but not before. Make sure the brake lines are long enough."

Thanks! We'll try it!

Make sure when you do the water burnout to have it in third gear (not first) and hold it in the water box for a good long while, and then no dry hops. The wrong method here can lead to poor traction.

Also, I assume you are using a wide ratio tranny and not a close ratio. If you have a close ratio you may have a tough time ever getting a decent 60ft without gearing the rearend down a bunch.

Thanks for the tips, I agree the et streets need lots of heat to make 'em stick. We use 2nd gear at 5500-6000 for about 30 seconds. Now that you mention it that crapmaro I mentioned earlier in this thread really smokes his et streets brutally! Maybe we should try third

As for burnouts, I've never done one in 3rd gear. I'm not a big believer in super high speed burnouts. A longer, slower burnout gives time for the heat to soak into the tires. 5-6k in 2nd gear with a 4.33 rear works fine for my car.

DEFINITELY tighten up that traction lock! Install new clutches and springs if you can find them, and don't use too much of that friction modifier. You might need to use a little with new clutches, but it is designed to HELP the clutches slip. You don't want too much of that stuff.

Good Luck!

I fab'd and installed flat shock towers, giving us about 1.75" more suspension travel. Then shortened the lower control arms by 3/16" adding "some" caster.(thanks TomP for that tip) The car returns to straight after a turn nicely now. We'll test it Weds. night with the gas shocks in front and 13 psi in the et streets and make sure it's safe before changing back to the C/E shocks and tiny battery mounted at the firewall. Oh I also removed the two horns, but Melissa wouldn't allow me to remove the horse!! LOL Thanks everyone!

She ran a new best today of 12.54 @ 108.84mph this morning. 60' was 1.703. Her second round in the afternoon was a 12.63 @ 107.6, 1.754 60'. The 90-10's, little battery, ballast in trunk, and the jet extensions are working. Now we're looking at an automatic, and alum drive shaft. Any ideas on tranny (4.11 gear) and convertor (leaving at 4500 now w/4spd)?

Any sugestions on an auto tranny and convertor anyone?

NOTamatic ... don't do it...don't succumb to the evil forces of icky red fluid-dom.

Steve they are trying to brainwash you... make you think that automatics are OK and that a Torque Pervertor is some sort of replacement for a clutch.

Anyways... thats my suggestion...glad i can be of help

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64 T-Boltish Fairlane 427 HR 4spd 10.05 at 133.7 so far ... arrgh ,so close!!

I know Alex's recommendation, a C4 .

I think the clutch thing would be a pain in the butt. As soon as the clutch was let out the least little bit, the switch would activate. I like to have the clutch part way out on the starting line. so it wouldn't work for me.

It's not hard to release your thumb when stepping off the clutch.

My shifter button is hooked to both the 2-step and the line-loc. When released, it's time to go! The nitrous is throttle activated.

Some people mount it in the steering wheel spoke by their left thumb. Whatever works!

Good Luck!

After reading all these great suggestions, I was wondering if you have ever considered going with Fiberglass Rear Leaf Springs??? As per MoneyMaker...

Toni, also runs regular control arms with Lakewood traction bars,,, Have you given that a try???

Don

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Previously Known As Don H McDonald
Brilliant Blue 1966 2+2
Soon To Be 302 w/5spd
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/BigD.html

The three/two step is in and we'll get to try it out next week. The car went 1.702 60'ers on Memorial day @ 12.520 et. We've been vacationing since. A new driveshaft is on the way, and we'll report the findings next week. Still need to loosen up the front shock mounts.....

Yeah it's still the same. Maybe a 5 speed in the future.
I put a Crane three step in it and it is fully adjustable w/o chips. I'll try 4,000rpm first, then up or down depending on traction. The launch limiter is released by the line lock button on the shifter handle. She has to use linelock on the line at Searspoint 'cause it's not level. I like your clutch activated set up, how'd you wire the relay?