Brought to you in part by:

.

Shop Eastwood for your Auto Restoration Needs!


  Mustangsandmore Forums
  Ford Racing
  Hooking up a '66 w/351w 4speed????

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Hooking up a '66 w/351w 4speed????
steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-05-2001 10:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK here's the big ?

Most of you know Melissa's H.S. bracket car, but for those who don't;

It's a 3060# w/driver 351w perf rpm headed 750 holley etc, 4 speed, 4.11 9" trac loc, M/T et streets, spare and tools in trunk, no back seat, glass hood, battery up front, gas shocks in frt, Rancho 9000s in back, frame tied, steel wheels, 205-60s in front, weight balance; 56% front, 44% rear, etc.

The problem is the car won't hook! It runs high 12s usually w/ 1.9-2.0 60'ers @ 108 mph corked up. It's run better but these are the norm on a Wed night, sometimes 13.0s w/ 2.1 60'ers. With an extra $1,000 or so to throw at it, what are most benificial mods??? You know, the most "bang for the buck"? Cal tracks, skinnies, good shocks in the fromt, new front springs, battery in trunk, glass front bumper??? What will work to give us solid 1.7 60'ers and solid mid 12's? That's not too much to ask is it? Esp. since it's not a daily driver anymore, it's an occasiomal driver now. Please give me your comments, (if you don't wanna post, then e-mail me) but we need to know how to make this thing bite, on a budget!

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!

Steve & MelissaW

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-05-2001 11:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'd start with the Cal Track, all the front tricks won't do anything until the rear effects it or trys to , the Cal Track can be adjusted far better/finer than shimming and playing with a slapper bar and when you do want a smooth ride you can back off the Cal Track in a few seconds and you won't even know they're there.

IP: Logged

Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 737
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 04-05-2001 11:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
With $1000 to spend:

In this order:
Cal-Tracs!! $320
Battery to trunk $60 ($30 for cable,$30 for cutoff switch)
Good shocks up front. $100-$200
Real slicks. The ET Streets are much better than a street tire, but they are not just a slick with a little tread. Different compound and sidewalls are twice as thick/stiff. $300

Later,

David Cole

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-05-2001 11:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Darn it Dave. I was gonna charge him $700 to put them on!

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-06-2001 12:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Cool Dave and Doc,

But, did I mention that slicks aren't allowed. We gotta do this on DOT tires. We know it can be done 'cause there's a crapmaro running the same tires + skinnies and slapper bars running 1.68 60's and 12.2s at the same mph!?!

Steve & MelissaW

IP: Logged

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1511
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-06-2001 01:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Back when my car ran high 12's (no bottle), it would 60ft in the 1.7's no problem.

It used (and still uses) cheap Competition Engineering front 90/10 shocks, which are around $35 each. These are adjustable, and I set them to the setting where they extend the easiest, and compress the hardest. The front springs are still the original V8 35 year old stockers... and are quite mushy.

By all means, move the battery to the rear. Install it over the right rear tire and move it as far rearward as possible. It's also a good idea to move the starter solonoid to the rear too. That way there isn't a heavy gauge (always hot) wire snaking it's way to the front of the vehicle. If a battery cable sized wire were to short itself out, it could catch the car on fire. Move the battery, then move the solonoid.

In the past I used a good set of slapper bars... the ones that replaced the lower spring mounting plates. The U-bolts are what attach them. I later changed to Cal-Tracs and had zero improvement. Your results may vary.

A good set of rear springs is also necessary. I used 4-leaf "GT" springs. These were a bit stiffer than stock, and stood up to launches quite well. 35 year old stock springs just aren't up to the stresses of 4-speed launches on slicks. Get some new springs.

Rear shocks were stiff (and cheap) KYB units... Yes, the same ones that can be purchased for $119 for a set of 4. They were left over from the "road race" days and came with a handling kit that used to be on the car.

Does the car have a 2-step rev limiter? In not GET ONE!!! This allows for consistent stick shift launches. You can launch at the exact same rpm every time. But, the best thing about it in my opinion, is that it allows the car to be launched at that rpm with the throttle WIDE F***ing OPEN. If the car can't be launched this way it WILL bog once it starts to get traction. I consider a 2-step mandatory on a stick car.

Be sure to launch it HARD. Most likely, you will need 31 spline axles. A Detroit Locker is best, but a 4-pinion Trac-Loc will do if the clutches are good.

I always launch near redline with the throttle buried.... which is required for best results. (at least with a 302) The 351 might have enough torque to be launched a little lower, but not much.

With stock wheelwells, the largest slick that can be used is a 26x10. An equivalent sized ET-Street would be advertised wider since they are marketed by the sidewall width. Look at the specs and compare to the slicks to see which is needed. I had no problems running a 26x8.5 slick into the 11's.

Stiffen up the rear, move the battery to the back, loosen up the front shocks, and launch it HARD!

My best 60ft with the above combo is a 1.43 with a 150hp shot of nitrous (activated on launch) that resulted in a 6.74 @ 103 in the 1/8. The car pulled the front wheels first -and- second gears! Of course, the track had excellent preparation and gobs of VHT, but the car has NEVER cut 60ft time higher than 1.6's or very low 1.7's on any track off the bottle.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

IP: Logged

Butch Jennings
Gearhead

Posts: 577
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-06-2001 10:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Butch Jennings   Click Here to Email Butch Jennings     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Hi Steve,

If it was my car (LOL...Larry) I think I'd start with moving the battery and getting the front end to transfer better....6 cyl or Moroso springs, shocks, skinnies. I don't think I'd worry about going to a Cal-trac just yet until you get the front end to work.

I've watched the car and it really does try to work but the front seems too stiff and it unloads the rear....I've gone as quick as 1.44 60' in my car with a slapper bar, granted it has a slick on it, but a slapper bar can be made to work well in the 1.6-1.7 range.

I forget what you have in it for ignition, but a low side rev limiter would help in consistency and add another tuning tool. I know for me, the less things I have to think/worry about, the better I am in the car....a 2-step just adds to my confidence level.

I'm not sure how much a glass bumper is worth on an early Mustang, but I can tell you this....The biggest single regret I have with my car is not having fiberglass readily available and having a real fight to get the car under 3000lbs. If/when I do it again, I'll start with a lighter car and throw every fiberglass, aluminum, plastic, titanium, ultra lightweight piece that I can get my hands on and the budget allows. That also includes using moly tube instead of mild steel....I use up way too much power trying to overcome the weight of the car. That's the bottom line for me.

------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
best of 10.27 @ 129.997 1/4 mile
Butcher's Home Page

IP: Logged

66351stang
Gearhead

Posts: 677
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-06-2001 05:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66351stang   Click Here to Email 66351stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
steve nito makes an excellent street slick, d.o.t approved ,they bite like a bear,

------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-61 falcon 302
have a great day!!!!!!!!

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-06-2001 09:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the great tips guys! I think we'll start with a battery relocation, then add the other suggestions. We have the 12 ga steel panel behind where the back seat was. I've got the CE shocks for the front and will try them again, I took them off when the car got squirely last season. Also the shocks don't have as much travel as the suspension. I might extend them, what do you think? The front springs are original, the rears are new 4 leafs. We currently run the Crane HI6 ignition, and will look into a two step (actualy w/crane the add on box is a three step which will be fine for water box rpm control too). Some of our 4 speed friends say launching "flat footed" deprives you of the pump shot off the line and may cause bogging. Is that true Mike? Thanks again and please keep 'em coming, we're all ears!

Steve & MelissaW

p.s. Axles are Moser 28 spline and 4 spider trac-loc. Trac loc could be set up tighter, sometimes on a dry 2nd gear burn out only one tire smokes. If we can get 'em wet they both burn fine.

[This message has been edited by steve'66 (edited 04-06-2001).]

IP: Logged

Butch Jennings
Gearhead

Posts: 577
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-06-2001 10:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Butch Jennings   Click Here to Email Butch Jennings     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I run my auto flatfooted on the 2-step footbraking it....never had it bog. I'm going to go with a transbrake in the next trans....waiting for this one to break before I make a switch.

------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
best of 10.27 @ 129.997 1/4 mile
Butcher's Home Page

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-06-2001 11:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve if you look close at the pic I took at the Wed Tom was down from that other country only one tire was movin in the water, take some of all that extra cash and put a kit in the rear

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-07-2001 12:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Doc:
Steve if you look close at the pic I took at the Wed Tom was down from that other country only one tire was movin in the water, take some of all that extra cash and put a kit in the rear

Doc,

By 'kit' do you mean new clutches and tightening it up or a detroit locker?

SteveW

p.s. I'll get the answers out of you guys if I have to pull it out in single sylables! LOL

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-07-2001 01:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can't wait till I see the flack I catch for this one but here goes. Just put clutches in the posi. Lockers break axles, not every time and for whatever reason not in all cars but in a hooked up piece they'll pop an axle fairly often. The deal is they start with one axle and when the tire starts to slip they catch the other axle on the fly. Go ahead and start the flaming folks but I wouldn't put one in a car/truck that runs on pavement, they're great in the dirt though.

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-07-2001 07:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Doc,

I agree with you, a spool or even a "lincoln locker" does not wait to hook the opposite axle during a burnout. A trac-lock does, except that the cluthes smooth the transition. I run detroit lockers in my 4X4's, but not the S/S car(s).

I wasn't able to try any of your tips this week, because I spent this Saturday fixing the body damage caused by the Dodge Boy a couple weeks ago. But I will next w/e. Thanks again for the tips, and if anyone has any others please join in!

SteveW

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-07-2001 09:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Damage??? I hope it wasn't a big deal!

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-07-2001 10:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Doc,

Not a big deal. I changed the tail light panel, rear valance, and rear bumper today. Total of $242 in parts delivered + 6 hours labor (free). That net's 1500 or so for a new paint job. I told Melissa to get a bumper sticker that says "hit me I need the money" LOL
So now it's a tri-colored 'stang! Soon to be a silver w/blue shelby striped 'stang. I shot it the last two times in my garage, but I'd like to have it done professionally this time. Not a "show car" job, just a nice clear coated paint job. I'll do the prep, and trailer it to a shop. Do you know anyone in N.Ca. that will shoot it cheap? I've got a couple in mind. Thanks guys!

SteveW

IP: Logged

TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 4780
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 04-07-2001 10:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve

I have the cheapy Comp Eng. front shocks on my car...its rides smooth and handles fine at 133mph. They work excellent,car settles very quickly,rarely ever bounces the wheels back off the ground in 2nd. The 6 cyl original springs sit the front end pretty low but the car never lands hard from a wheelstand... except for that time i did a dry hop (flattened pan)

Also make sure the front end has some caster. this may mean shimming the upper arms at the front mounting bolts to tip them back and pulling the strut rods all the way forward, this should keep the car from getting squirrely.Lowering the upper control arms (like Shelby's)also help keep the front tires more perpendicular. Shocks should be extended, this can be done by making the top mounts shorter,kinda like flat plates,with the wheels hanging the shock should top out,but not before. Make sure the brake lines are long enough.

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-07-2001 10:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tom,

This is excelent stuff! Last season when the car was getting squirely I posted the prob, but didn't get any sound advice so we took the good stuff off until it was safe again!

Quote fron TomP "Also make sure the front end has some caster. this may mean shimming the upper arms at the front mounting bolts to tip them back and pulling the strut rods all the way forward, this should keep the car from getting squirrely.Lowering the upper control arms (like Shelby's)also help keep the front tires more perpendicular. Shocks should be extended, this can be done by making the top mounts shorter,kinda like flat plates,with the wheels hanging the shock should top out,but not before. Make sure the brake lines are long enough."

Thanks! We'll try it!

SteveW

IP: Logged

Mike_R
Gearhead

Posts: 150
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-08-2001 01:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike_R   Click Here to Email Mike_R     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Steve, I'm new to the forum. Great forum by the way. I figured I'd throw my 2 cents worth in about your launching problem. I run a toploader 4-speed and Mickey Thomson ET streets on my 70 Torino Cobra (mid 11's). This may be wasted info on you but it took some trial and error for me to figure it out so maybe it will be helpful in some way.

Make sure when you do the water burnout to have it in third gear (not first) and hold it in the water box for a good long while, and then no dry hops. The wrong method here can lead to poor traction.


Also, I assume you are using a wide ratio tranny and not a close ratio. If you have a close ratio you may have a tough time ever getting a decent 60ft without gearing the rearend down a bunch.

Sorry if these are things you've already covered, but I would make sure these two bases are covered before you start spending more money.

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-08-2001 12:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M Mike!

Thanks for the tips, I agree the et streets need lots of heat to make 'em stick. We use 2nd gear at 5500-6000 for about 30 seconds. Now that you mention it that crapmaro I mentioned earlier in this thread really smokes his et streets brutally! Maybe we should try third

SteveW

IP: Logged

TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 4780
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 04-08-2001 01:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've never been able to use third without the danger of frying the clutch. It'll take some revs and a quick snap of the pedal to do,make sure somebody is watching the tires,from inside the car it'll feel like they are spinning...till the smell of burnt clutch wafts in

IP: Logged

Mike_R
Gearhead

Posts: 150
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-08-2001 08:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike_R   Click Here to Email Mike_R     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, if you use third you definately can't let the clutch out slowly, you have to pop it quickly. Tearing up the clutch on my burnout is about the only thing I haven't broken on my car at one time or another, so maybe I've been lucky on that one.

IP: Logged

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1511
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-09-2001 10:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Steve,
Instability is probably coming from insufficient air pressure in the slicks (or ET Streets) or not enough caster. A small 26" slick should have around 13-15psi on a mustang for optimum performance. You should dial in as much caster as possible. It's a pain with an early mustang, since the only way to adjust caster and camber is the ole' labor intensive trial and error shim method with the upper control arms.

As for burnouts, I've never done one in 3rd gear. I'm not a big believer in super high speed burnouts. A longer, slower burnout gives time for the heat to soak into the tires. 5-6k in 2nd gear with a 4.33 rear works fine for my car.

DEFINITELY tighten up that traction lock! Install new clutches and springs if you can find them, and don't use too much of that friction modifier. You might need to use a little with new clutches, but it is designed to HELP the clutches slip. You don't want too much of that stuff.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-16-2001 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Update....

I fab'd and installed flat shock towers, giving us about 1.75" more suspension travel. Then shortened the lower control arms by 3/16" adding "some" caster.(thanks TomP for that tip) The car returns to straight after a turn nicely now. We'll test it Weds. night with the gas shocks in front and 13 psi in the et streets and make sure it's safe before changing back to the C/E shocks and tiny battery mounted at the firewall. Oh I also removed the two horns, but Melissa wouldn't allow me to remove the horse!! LOL Thanks everyone!

SteveW

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 05-28-2001 06:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Update;

She ran a new best today of 12.54 @ 108.84mph this morning. 60' was 1.703. Her second round in the afternoon was a 12.63 @ 107.6, 1.754 60'. The 90-10's, little battery, ballast in trunk, and the jet extensions are working. Now we're looking at an automatic, and alum drive shaft. Any ideas on tranny (4.11 gear) and convertor (leaving at 4500 now w/4spd)?

SteveW

IP: Logged

I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5923
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 05-28-2001 06:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jet extensions solve the bog problem Steve?

------------------
Tim
M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 05-28-2001 07:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
They did for Sears anyway. Not sure about Sac's track though.

SteveW

IP: Logged

I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5923
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 05-28-2001 09:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Guess you all will just have to come back out here and try it out . Maybe I will have the M/Ts by then .

------------------
Tim
M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 05-28-2001 11:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Tim, we'll be bak!

Any sugestions on an auto tranny and convertor anyone?

SteveW

IP: Logged

TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 4780
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 05-29-2001 03:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ACK!! ACK!!

NOTamatic ... don't do it...don't succumb to the evil forces of icky red fluid-dom.

Steve they are trying to brainwash you... make you think that automatics are OK and that a Torque Pervertor is some sort of replacement for a clutch.

Anyways... thats my suggestion...glad i can be of help

------------------
64 T-Boltish Fairlane 427 HR 4spd 10.05 at 133.7 so far ... arrgh ,so close!!

another 64Fairlane project 428 4spd
53 F350 ramptruck 428 4spd
88 Ranger 5.0 5speed
'bout half of a 67 Mustang FB was a 390 :-(

IP: Logged

I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5923
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 05-29-2001 03:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Lol, I was waiting for you to say that Tom .

I know Alex's recommendation, a C4 .

------------------
Tim
M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

IP: Logged

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1511
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 05-29-2001 07:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
At LEAST put a 2-step rev limiter on the thing and try it before going to the slush-o-matic.

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

IP: Logged

Butch Jennings
Gearhead

Posts: 577
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 05-29-2001 09:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Butch Jennings   Click Here to Email Butch Jennings     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Congrats Steve and Melissa! Personal bests are always way cool I'd put a 2-step on it whether you go to the automatic or not.

------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.069
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 05-29-2001 01:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys. I ordered a three step limiter today (Crane 9000-0005). We're gonna stay 4 speed, just try to simplify the launch for her. Should I add a switch to the clutch linkage to release the limiter and line lock on launch? Then she'll only have to think about releasing the clutch on time?!? (kinda like footbraking an auto) How would you wire this? Thanks again,

SteveW

IP: Logged

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1511
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 05-29-2001 03:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just put a button on the shifter. It's not really much more to think about. It's no big deal at all.

I think the clutch thing would be a pain in the butt. As soon as the clutch was let out the least little bit, the switch would activate. I like to have the clutch part way out on the starting line. so it wouldn't work for me.

It's not hard to release your thumb when stepping off the clutch.

My shifter button is hooked to both the 2-step and the line-loc. When released, it's time to go! The nitrous is throttle activated.

Some people mount it in the steering wheel spoke by their left thumb. Whatever works!

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

IP: Logged

TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 4780
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 05-29-2001 11:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i have a 3 step..only i dont have the 3rd step hooked up,can't figure out why i'd need to, tho may just use two buttons on the shifter and have a choice of 2 different launch RPMs if i see the car ahead spin?

The clutch pedal is a bad spot, when the clutch is pushed in on shifts it will feel like the engine quit for 3 seconds instead of .03

IP: Logged

Doc
Gearhead

Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 05-30-2001 01:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Doc   Click Here to Email Doc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It is said the right index finger is the best/quickest button controller, for right handed people that is .

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 05-31-2001 12:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the tips everyone!
The car ran well tonight, but typical Weds night track prep resulted in a 12.71 and 12.73 best with 1.9 60'ers. That's ok though.
TomP, the 3rd stage is for the waterbox, but I don't think we'll use it either. Crane doesn't have a 2-step option. Oh well it's cheaper than switching to MSD now. My son's car will run a MSD-6plus with a built in two step for about $100 less than the crane package. Live and learn. Thanks again to everyone!

SteveW

IP: Logged

Big D
Gearhead

Posts: 3603
From: WELLS, NEVADA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 06-01-2001 09:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Big D   Click Here to Email Big D     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve,

After reading all these great suggestions, I was wondering if you have ever considered going with Fiberglass Rear Leaf Springs??? As per MoneyMaker...

Toni, also runs regular control arms with Lakewood traction bars,,, Have you given that a try???

Don

------------------
Previously Known As Don H McDonald
Brilliant Blue 1966 2+2
Soon To Be 302 w/5spd
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/BigD.html

[This message has been edited by Big D (edited 06-01-2001).]

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-12-2001 02:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well,

The three/two step is in and we'll get to try it out next week. The car went 1.702 60'ers on Memorial day @ 12.520 et. We've been vacationing since. A new driveshaft is on the way, and we'll report the findings next week. Still need to loosen up the front shock mounts.....

SteveW

IP: Logged

Rory McNeil
Gearhead

Posts: 1192
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 07-12-2001 12:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil   Click Here to Email Rory McNeil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve, are you still using that overdrive toploader? If so, a regular toploader would be a major ET improvement! Myself, I`d sell the Traction lok before it breaks the side cover (has happened to me several times when tight clutch packs were used)& buy a Detroit locker. My 428 70 Mach 1 (428 4speed) ran12.4 @ 115 mph years ago at 3800 lbs, with a locker & NO axle problems at all. In my 2 4/5 speed cars, I have a 2 step in each car. Both have the line lock wired into the low side (6000-6500 in the 10 sec. car, 3000-4800 in the street car) . I have an adjustable MSD RPM selector on the street car, going from 3000 to 5200 rpm, (pn 8670). It sure beats digging around in the glovebox
looking for the right chip! On the street car, the line lock & 2 step are wired into a button on the shifter, on the race car, I have them wired into the clutch pedal. Since I ran the switch through a relay, the low side rev limiter can`t come back on during gear changes. Does your track mandate DOT tires? I`ve yet to see a car with decent power not make a real improvement running proper slicks instead of DOT tires, including ET Streets. I hope you stay with a stick shift car, my 302 street Fairmont with a C4 (with 2500 stall convertor) ran a best of 13.74 @ 101 mph, swapping in a T5 Mustang 5 speed, the car has gone a best of 12.80 @105 mph, with NO other changes. Plus in the 5 years the 5 speeds been in,other than 1 stock axle in the 8.8 rear end, there has been NO breakage. Now, why would I ever consider putting an automatic back in?

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6352
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-12-2001 02:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Rory,

Yeah it's still the same. Maybe a 5 speed in the future.
I put a Crane three step in it and it is fully adjustable w/o chips. I'll try 4,000rpm first, then up or down depending on traction. The launch limiter is released by the line lock button on the shifter handle. She has to use linelock on the line at Searspoint 'cause it's not level. I like your clutch activated set up, how'd you wire the relay?

SteveW

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2003, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Build a free Mustangsandmore.ws Home Page!]

[About M&M][Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Links] [Members' Pics] [M&M Mug Shots] [Tech] [ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [Advertise on Mustangsandmore.com] [Mustangsandmore.com T-Shirts]