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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  Tool Time
  Welder Recommendations

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Author Topic:   Welder Recommendations
Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 08:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
Since I'm having rotten luck with finding a body shop to do rust repair, I might as well do it myself. The first order of business is replacing my little buzz-box welder with something appropriate.

I would like to stick with MIG. I want gas shielded. This is intended primarily for body pannels (qrts, floor boards, etc...) and some heavier stuff (welding on my new sub-frame connectors). I have the ability to run 220 if needed.

I would like to hear what people like using. Make and model please. I don't want to overkill this either. Just a nice, appropriately sized unit for the job.

Thanks ~ Eric

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 08:45 AM              Reply w/Quote
I'm using a Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 120 volt. It can be either gas shielded or flux core. It has worked great for me.

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 07-14-2005 08:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
I would have sworn they had a topic on Welders in the Tool Time section, but I went back to the beginning with no luck. Sorry, but I think it was close, if not the same as ddenton's here.

------------------
William
68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress"

Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 706
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 07-14-2005 09:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K        Reply w/Quote
I've got a Millermatic 130 that has been absolutely outstanding. I've had mine about 8 years with no problems at all. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Miller product.

------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 09:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
Maybe this is what you were thinking of William - thanks for the tip, this was a good read over in the Ford Racing area:

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/010364.html

How does this one compare your yours DDenton?

How do Hobarts fall into the mix?

74merc
Gearhead

Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-14-2005 10:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 74merc        Reply w/Quote
I've got a cheap no name (not pronouncable name) 110v welder. I wish I had more control of the heat, cuz frankly all settings are a bit too hot for body work, but I think that is the case with all body panel welding.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 07-14-2005 11:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Yep, that's the one. Hope it works out for ya!

------------------
William
68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress"

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 12:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
Well, further research tells me that the Weld Pack 3200HD looks to be extremely similar to the PRO-MIG 135. Only a couple of subtle differences - nothing that changes the functionality. You can buy one at the one big hardware store and the other at the other big hardware store...

I think this is an easy decision based on all the feedback. Thanks for the all the input everybody.

Now I need to start thinking about an air compressor...

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 02:40 PM              Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Twirly Bird:
Maybe this is what you were thinking of William - thanks for the tip, this was a good read over in the Ford Racing area:

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/010364.html

How does this one compare your yours DDenton?

How do Hobarts fall into the mix?



It's a Weld-Pack 3200 but it sure looks identical to mine. I got my Pro-Mig 135 at Lowe's and I've been very happy with it. A friend got one from Eastwood tools (not a Lincoln) which he is happy with. 74merc is right about the heat. Welding thin sheet metal can be tricky. I use setting 1 with a feed around 2, argon-co2 mix, and I move my bead along quickly.

It seems to me that Hobarts are more expensive.

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

[This message has been edited by ddenton749 (edited 07-14-2005).]

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 02:49 PM              Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Twirly Bird:

...Now I need to start thinking about an air compressor...

Sounds like the start of a whole new thread...

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 03:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
Maybe later, but not today. I just found a loaner...

He is also loaning me his air chisel, die grinder, and air drill. Look out spot welds, here I come.

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 03:19 PM              Reply w/Quote
DeWalt makes a great 5/16" pilot drill bit that is awesome for drilling out spot welds.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/dewalt/dew02-09.html

I buy them a Sears Hardware for about $6 each as opposed to $25+ for spot weld removers.

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 03:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
Just out of curiousity, how long will one of those bits last - 30 welds, 50 welds, etc... assuming you keep it well lubed ???

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 07-14-2005 03:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike        Reply w/Quote
Spot weld cutters...

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000287.html

I also use a Dewalt pilot point drill bit. 3/8 is the perfect size. I just drilled out a dozen or so with an old bit. Works like a charm. Don't waste your money on those 'specialty' spot weld cutters. These work great, and are cheap.

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 07-14-2005).]

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 07-14-2005).]

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 03:59 PM              Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Twirly Bird:
Just out of curiousity, how long will one of those bits last - 30 welds, 50 welds, etc... assuming you keep it well lubed ???

I never really counted how many spots I drilled, but I'm going to guess around 20-30+. I used two bits to drill all the spot welds in my cowl to completely remove it. Like n2oMike said, they work like a charm. You can buy them individually so you don't have to buy a whole set. They're much better and cheaper than spot weld removers.

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-14-2005 05:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
I knew you guys would have the answer

I sent you an email DDenton.

It sounds like a bit per day when you relate this back to cowl removal. I'll get a handful.

Thanks Again.

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-14-2005 08:03 PM              Reply w/Quote
Eric - I haven't seen that email yet. Are you sure you got the D's and the dots in the right places?

Don

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-15-2005 08:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ddenton749:
Eric - I haven't seen that email yet. Are you sure you got the D's and the dots in the right places?

Don


Lets try that again - thanks

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-15-2005 08:38 AM              Reply w/Quote
Got it...I sent you a reply...

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

74merc
Gearhead

Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-15-2005 11:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 74merc        Reply w/Quote
One word of advice, go slow.

My floorpans were forgiving, the fender was not. I probably spent an hour welding a 7 by 11 sheet into my fender only to have it warp. Cut the welds and start over.

By the time I got it right, I had several hours tacking it in, letting it cool to the touch, then starting over. I generally put in 6 tacks (I guess that's how you spell it when talking about welding) around as far apart from the last as possible, let it cool for 10-15 minutes, then go again. It works out better if you have something else to while waiting on it to cool.

Something else, could just be my welder, but it gets HOT when welding at low temp much faster than full on welding. The wire gets hot, the tip gets hot, the wire seizes up until it cools off. Thats a good time to let the steel cool.

ddenton749
unregistered
posted 07-15-2005 11:27 AM              Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 74merc:
One word of advice, go slow...

By the time I got it right, I had several hours tacking it in, letting it cool to the touch, then starting over. I generally put in 6 tacks (I guess that's how you spell it when talking about welding) around as far apart from the last as possible, let it cool for 10-15 minutes, then go again. It works out better if you have something else to while waiting on it to cool...


It's called stitch welding and it's a must for doing thin sheet body panels to keep them from warping. Weld about an inch, then move to a cold spot down the line, weld about an inch, etc, until you get to the end, then start at the beginning again. 74merc is right. Allow time in between for the metal to cool. Also, using a gas shielded arc MIG, as opposed to flux core helps to keep thing cooler.

------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

Twirly Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 226
From: Central PA
Registered: Aug 2004

posted 07-15-2005 12:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Twirly Bird        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 74merc:
One word of advice, go slow.

... but it gets HOT when welding at low temp much faster than full on welding. The wire gets hot, the tip gets hot, the wire seizes up until it cools off. Thats a good time to let the steel cool.


Yeah. That's been my problem, too. Heat control and weld quality are the two big reasons leading me to purchase a better quality MIG welder. The one I have works great for heavier gauge metal (torque boxes, inner rockers, and the like) but is a challenge with the lighter stuff. It can be done, but I want better heat control to help compensate for my skill level.

Oh yeah, I have a lightly used C*****man MIG welder for sale if anyone is interested. I'll give you a good price. email me

Roadkill
Journeyman

Posts: 80
From: Chesterfield, Mi, 48047
Registered: Jun 2005

posted 07-15-2005 08:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Roadkill        Reply w/Quote
I have a Millermatic 135 mig welder, does gas or flux core. New was arount 6 bills works great and very easy to use. Ed

74merc
Gearhead

Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-16-2005 01:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 74merc        Reply w/Quote
I generally weld about a quarter inch at a time, warps easily with what I've got. What is the thickness of Mustang body panels? I'm using 22 guage, its a pretty good match to the steel (tinfoil) used in the 74 Comet.

I got a curved sheet within 1/8 of an inch of the actual curve on my fender for a first try at an actual body panel, so I think I'm doing ok... I was shooting for only needing filler over the welds themselves, but...

Mine was free, just had to get it working. it doesn't work perfectly, but the way I figure, I learned to work on cars on a hunk of junk, learned to drive in a hunk of junk... learn to weld sheetmetal with a hunk of junk, I oughta be good at it with a real welder... lol

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