I would like to stick with MIG. I want gas shielded. This is intended primarily for body pannels (qrts, floor boards, etc...) and some heavier stuff (welding on my new sub-frame connectors). I have the ability to run 220 if needed.

I would like to hear what people like using. Make and model please. I don't want to overkill this either. Just a nice, appropriately sized unit for the job.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/010364.html

How does this one compare your yours DDenton?

I think this is an easy decision based on all the feedback. Thanks for the all the input everybody.

Now I need to start thinking about an air compressor...

quote:

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Originally posted by Twirly Bird:
Maybe this is what you were thinking of William - thanks for the tip, this was a good read over in the Ford Racing area:

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/010364.html

How does this one compare your yours DDenton?

How do Hobarts fall into the mix?

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It's a Weld-Pack 3200 but it sure looks identical to mine. I got my Pro-Mig 135 at Lowe's and I've been very happy with it. A friend got one from Eastwood tools (not a Lincoln) which he is happy with. 74merc is right about the heat. Welding thin sheet metal can be tricky. I use setting 1 with a feed around 2, argon-co2 mix, and I move my bead along quickly.

It seems to me that Hobarts are more expensive.

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'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site

quote:

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Originally posted by Twirly Bird:

...Now I need to start thinking about an air compressor...

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Sounds like the start of a whole new thread...

http://www.mytoolstore.com/dewalt/dew02-09.html

I buy them a Sears Hardware for about $6 each as opposed to $25+ for spot weld removers.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000287.html

I also use a Dewalt pilot point drill bit. 3/8 is the perfect size. I just drilled out a dozen or so with an old bit. Works like a charm. Don't waste your money on those 'specialty' spot weld cutters. These work great, and are cheap.

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 07-14-2005).]

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Originally posted by Twirly Bird:
Just out of curiousity, how long will one of those bits last - 30 welds, 50 welds, etc... assuming you keep it well lubed ???

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I never really counted how many spots I drilled, but I'm going to guess around 20-30+. I used two bits to drill all the spot welds in my cowl to completely remove it. Like n2oMike said, they work like a charm. You can buy them individually so you don't have to buy a whole set. They're much better and cheaper than spot weld removers.

I sent you an email DDenton.

It sounds like a bit per day when you relate this back to cowl removal. I'll get a handful.

Thanks Again.

Don

quote:

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Originally posted by ddenton749:
Eric - I haven't seen that email yet. Are you sure you got the D's and the dots in the right places?

Don

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My floorpans were forgiving, the fender was not. I probably spent an hour welding a 7 by 11 sheet into my fender only to have it warp. Cut the welds and start over.

By the time I got it right, I had several hours tacking it in, letting it cool to the touch, then starting over. I generally put in 6 tacks (I guess that's how you spell it when talking about welding) around as far apart from the last as possible, let it cool for 10-15 minutes, then go again. It works out better if you have something else to while waiting on it to cool.

quote:

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Originally posted by 74merc:
One word of advice, go slow...

By the time I got it right, I had several hours tacking it in, letting it cool to the touch, then starting over. I generally put in 6 tacks (I guess that's how you spell it when talking about welding) around as far apart from the last as possible, let it cool for 10-15 minutes, then go again. It works out better if you have something else to while waiting on it to cool...

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It's called stitch welding and it's a must for doing thin sheet body panels to keep them from warping. Weld about an inch, then move to a cold spot down the line, weld about an inch, etc, until you get to the end, then start at the beginning again. 74merc is right. Allow time in between for the metal to cool. Also, using a gas shielded arc MIG, as opposed to flux core helps to keep thing cooler.

quote:

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Originally posted by 74merc:
One word of advice, go slow.

... but it gets HOT when welding at low temp much faster than full on welding. The wire gets hot, the tip gets hot, the wire seizes up until it cools off. Thats a good time to let the steel cool.

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Yeah. That's been my problem, too. Heat control and weld quality are the two big reasons leading me to purchase a better quality MIG welder. The one I have works great for heavier gauge metal (torque boxes, inner rockers, and the like) but is a challenge with the lighter stuff. It can be done, but I want better heat control to help compensate for my skill level.

Oh yeah, I have a lightly used C*****man MIG welder for sale if anyone is interested. I'll give you a good price. email me

I got a curved sheet within 1/8 of an inch of the actual curve on my fender for a first try at an actual body panel, so I think I'm doing ok... I was shooting for only needing filler over the welds themselves, but...