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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  Tool Time
  Spot Weld Cutters

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Author Topic:   Spot Weld Cutters
lonewolf
Gearhead

Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 11-12-2003 01:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lonewolf        Reply w/Quote
In looking through the latest Eastwood catalog, I noticed they had 2 different spot weld cutters. I have never used any of them, just used regular drill bits in 3/8" and had to sharpen often.

Anyone have any experience with either of these? I am wondering if there is an easier way than what I have been using.

Cheers,

lonewolf

------------------
Lonewolf
1968 Coupe in Pieces

KULTULZ
Gearhead

Posts: 959
From: Rockville, MD
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 11-12-2003 01:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KULTULZ        Reply w/Quote
-Blair Spotweld Cutters-

They should be available through your body materials supplier or most any tool truck.

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 11-12-2003 02:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike        Reply w/Quote
Regular 'pilot point' drill bits are perfect for cutting spot welds.

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

skips69
Gearhead

Posts: 346
From: Catlin, IL USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 11-13-2003 05:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for skips69        Reply w/Quote
I get them through a local paint and bodyshop parts supplier, and they do work, but about as well as a sharp regular drill bit does. They are prone to dulling and breaking as well, so you'll need to have extra cutter's on hand if doing a lot of spot weld removal. I hardly use them anymore, just keep some good drill bits on hand that are a little larger than the actual spot weld and keep sharpening them......

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 11-14-2003 08:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
Recently removed the cowl top on a 66 cv. Used both Eastwood cutters. The first, a one piece one, lasted about 65 cuts. Finished with the other one with removable heads. Used oil for lubricant (wear sh*tty shirt or bib!), SLOW drill speed with steady pressure. Pre drilled the spot welds with a small bit, little smaller than 1/8". This will give you longer life on the head. Was able to get the top off with minimal effort. Did about 30 per day. One saving grace for me (yeah sure!) was the rusted condition on each end under the fender. NO SPOT WELDER NEEDED!! A big help is not having an engine in the bay!

On another site, there has been a few raves about the Blair cutter and one from Snap-on.

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 11-14-2003 03:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike        Reply w/Quote
These regular (and fairly inexpensive) pilot point drill bits are good for drilling out spot welds, while making a hole mainly in just the top layer of metal. You'll get a small pilot hole in the underneath layer, but that's no big deal. They can be purchased indivdually at Walmart for around $5 or so. 3/8" works for most spot welds.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

pmhvps
Gearhead

Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 11-17-2003 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for pmhvps        Reply w/Quote
Yes, those pilot point drills are the way to go. Bought the special spot weld cutters from Princess Auto. The first one lasted for 4 welds.....both sides. I have been babying the other one using only on super flat surface welds.

pmhvps
Gearhead

Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 12-09-2003 06:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for pmhvps        Reply w/Quote
Just a note here on the spot weld cutters. Like I said on the above post have been babying the last one. The other day needed to get the back trunk bracket separated from the tail light panel 30+ welds.....used the weld cutters with a shot of cutting fluid a few times on each drill process......worked great. You can tell by the feel when you need it. Go figure!

pmhvps
Gearhead

Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 12-21-2003 01:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for pmhvps        Reply w/Quote
BROKE it!!!!

lonewolf
Gearhead

Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 12-22-2003 12:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lonewolf        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pmhvps:
BROKE it!!!!


That stinks! Between work and all of the holiday things going on, I haven't had much chance to spend time on the car. I think I am going to try for the pilot point bits and cutter fluids.

Cheers,

lonewolf

iamblackjack
Gearhead

Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 02-11-2004 11:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for iamblackjack        Reply w/Quote
I had an abundance of old 3/8" drill bits laying around. I flattened the end completely and the used a cut off wheel to sculpt the edge back on it. I left a nib in the middle (much like the piolet points have,but free). I used a 3/32" to create a piolet hole (not all the way through). I removed my cowl, both quartes and both front floor pans this way. And it didn't cost a dime.

Kirk.

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Smack dab in the middle of a rotessire resto-mod of my '65 coupe that has been in the family for more than thirty years.

My car is older than me. That makes me feel young!

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