|
Author
|
Topic: Spot Weld Cutters
|
lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003
|
posted 11-12-2003 01:10 PM
 
In looking through the latest Eastwood catalog, I noticed they had 2 different spot weld cutters. I have never used any of them, just used regular drill bits in 3/8" and had to sharpen often. Anyone have any experience with either of these? I am wondering if there is an easier way than what I have been using. Cheers, lonewolf ------------------
Lonewolf
1968 Coupe in Pieces
|
KULTULZ
Gearhead Posts: 959
From: Rockville, MD
Registered: Oct 2002
|
posted 11-12-2003 01:24 PM
-Blair Spotweld Cutters-They should be available through your body materials supplier or most any tool truck.
|
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 11-12-2003 02:47 PM
Regular 'pilot point' drill bits are perfect for cutting spot welds.------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
|
skips69
Gearhead Posts: 346
From: Catlin, IL USA
Registered: Mar 2001
|
posted 11-13-2003 05:17 PM
I get them through a local paint and bodyshop parts supplier, and they do work, but about as well as a sharp regular drill bit does. They are prone to dulling and breaking as well, so you'll need to have extra cutter's on hand if doing a lot of spot weld removal. I hardly use them anymore, just keep some good drill bits on hand that are a little larger than the actual spot weld and keep sharpening them......
|
mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 11-14-2003 08:05 AM
Recently removed the cowl top on a 66 cv. Used both Eastwood cutters. The first, a one piece one, lasted about 65 cuts. Finished with the other one with removable heads. Used oil for lubricant (wear sh*tty shirt or bib!), SLOW drill speed with steady pressure. Pre drilled the spot welds with a small bit, little smaller than 1/8". This will give you longer life on the head. Was able to get the top off with minimal effort. Did about 30 per day. One saving grace for me (yeah sure!) was the rusted condition on each end under the fender. NO SPOT WELDER NEEDED!! A big help is not having an engine in the bay!On another site, there has been a few raves about the Blair cutter and one from Snap-on.
|
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 11-14-2003 03:33 PM
These regular (and fairly inexpensive) pilot point drill bits are good for drilling out spot welds, while making a hole mainly in just the top layer of metal. You'll get a small pilot hole in the underneath layer, but that's no big deal. They can be purchased indivdually at Walmart for around $5 or so. 3/8" works for most spot welds.  Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
|
pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003
|
posted 11-17-2003 08:53 AM
Yes, those pilot point drills are the way to go. Bought the special spot weld cutters from Princess Auto. The first one lasted for 4 welds.....both sides. I have been babying the other one using only on super flat surface welds.
|
pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003
|
posted 12-09-2003 06:35 PM
Just a note here on the spot weld cutters. Like I said on the above post have been babying the last one. The other day needed to get the back trunk bracket separated from the tail light panel 30+ welds.....used the weld cutters with a shot of cutting fluid a few times on each drill process......worked great. You can tell by the feel when you need it. Go figure!
|
pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003
|
posted 12-21-2003 01:40 PM
BROKE it!!!! 
|
lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003
|
posted 12-22-2003 12:56 PM
quote:
Originally posted by pmhvps:
BROKE it!!!!
That stinks! Between work and all of the holiday things going on, I haven't had much chance to spend time on the car. I think I am going to try for the pilot point bits and cutter fluids.
Cheers, lonewolf
|
iamblackjack
Gearhead Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002
|
posted 02-11-2004 11:40 AM
I had an abundance of old 3/8" drill bits laying around. I flattened the end completely and the used a cut off wheel to sculpt the edge back on it. I left a nib in the middle (much like the piolet points have,but free). I used a 3/32" to create a piolet hole (not all the way through). I removed my cowl, both quartes and both front floor pans this way. And it didn't cost a dime. Kirk. ------------------
Smack dab in the middle of a rotessire resto-mod of my '65 coupe that has been in the family for more than thirty years. My car is older than me. That makes me feel young!
|
