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Author
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Topic: Sub frame connectors
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-13-2005 08:50 AM
 
I apologize if this subject has been covered before, but when I try to search this site I get a blank screen back.The tear down is going well, the car will soon be on the rotisserie. My mechanic and I want to add strength to the subframe. He fabricates his own connectors, but is having trouble coming up with a design. I found the following: http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/subframe_connectors.htm Kit 2 appears to offer the most strength (? more being better?). I would like comments on this. A specific question from my mechanic is about connecting at the rear subframe - the frame rails are flush with the floor so how to you attach without cutting through the floor? Thanks as always! Gregg ------------------
68 coupe, red on black. http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/kinger44.html
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buening
Gearhead Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-13-2005 09:17 AM
Look into TinMan fabrications. He makes one STOUT subframe connector. They go under the rear torque box and weld to the frame rail as it goes over the rear axle. Tin Man Fabrications is on the web so do a yahoo search. It's the heaviest gauge steel connectors made and he does quality work.------------------
1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang
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71RESTO
Gearhead Posts: 1655
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-13-2005 09:58 AM
One thing I've always heard, and don't know if it's true, is that sub-frame connectors should only be installed on a fully loaded car with all four tires sitting on the ground (or a rack). Even a coupe or fastback gets a certain amount of body flex and if you install the connectors while the car ins't loaded the geometry will be off albeit minutely). Like I said, not sure how true, but you should probably check with some manufacturers before welding the connectors on.------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (under resto-351C-4V C6 auto)
M & M Member #730
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-13-2005 11:03 AM
quote:
Originally posted by kinger44:
A specific question from my mechanic is about connecting at the rear subframe - the frame rails are flush with the floor so how to you attach without cutting through the floor?
Many (such as the C-E units) will direct you to cut out a strip of the floorboards to allow the installation of their straight subframe connectors, then you'd reweld the floor edges to the connectors. Yes, the connectors will protrude up into the cabin area a bit.... You may want to check this thread for more ideas: https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/007127.html Good Luck!
Ryan 
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 1258
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 12-13-2005 01:00 PM
I've said it before, I'll say it again. Look at the Global West units. Mine went on so easily and fit perfectly WITHOUT CUTTING. My sources also say to do it as Duane suggests.
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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buening
Gearhead Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-13-2005 02:47 PM
Link for install on the tin man connectors: http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/subframe.htmlLink for Tinman fabrications connectors: http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/Products.aspx
Another link for discussion: http://members.boardhost.com/MustangSteve/msg/archive/139706.html
In my opinion, use brands that people have for sure installed and haven't had to do any cutting. Some connectors out there are no thick enough to get the full effect of a full frame car. I know people who have removed their Global West and TCP connectors to put in the Tin Man ones (they are that rigid). I don't work for the fellow or am not affiliated with him, but have heard too many good things about them. They even had a group buy on www.vintage-mustang.com
Don't cut your floorboards if there are better and non-intrusive connectors. At least they are reversable if you decide to go back to concours. Oh and don't go with the bolt in type either, you will want the weld in type.
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1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang
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Jake11
Gearhead Posts: 246
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-14-2005 03:50 AM
I used to work at Doug Nordin's place.
I quit cause he is a total Axxxxle. Most of
his stuff is ok, I guess. His mom bought
the buissiness for him. HeHeHe. JMO
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-14-2005 04:03 AM
I *heard* that the TCP units were very stout. Might want to check them out @ totalcontrolproducts.com .... I have also ehard very good things about Global West... David F.on edit. Just noticed the first link kinger included, those are the TCP subframes. The idea is to weld kit 1 then bolt kit 2 to strengthen the chasis... [This message has been edited by 68mustang351w (edited 12-14-2005).]
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Jake11
Gearhead Posts: 246
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-14-2005 04:03 AM
Doug Nordin=Global West, not too sharp.
buyer beware. Makes "pretty" parts
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buening
Gearhead Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-14-2005 11:30 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Jake11:
Doug Nordin=Global West, not too sharp.
buyer beware. Makes "pretty" parts
Yeah and he wants and arm and a leg for his new coil over conversion kit.
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1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 12-14-2005 11:59 AM
Just cut a groove through the rear floor, and run a straight 2x3 piece of steel tubing from the rear subframe to the front. Weld it in all the way around, and presto! The best (and cheapest) subframe connectors out there! You can attach them to either side of the original frame to make them as straight as possible.The only intrusion into the passenger compartment is the rear floorboard.... and that's only around an inch tall or so. Not bad. They are also FAR less visible from underneath the car. They look almost factory. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220 [This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 12-14-2005).]
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Jake11
Gearhead Posts: 246
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-17-2005 02:40 AM
That sounds better. Got any pic's?
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CometGT1974
Gearhead Posts: 479
From: Asheville, NC USA
Registered: Jan 2002
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posted 07-18-2006 10:11 AM
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
Just cut a groove through the rear floor, and run a straight 2x3 piece of steel tubing from the rear subframe to the front. Weld it in all the way around, and presto! The best (and cheapest) subframe connectors out there! You can attach them to either side of the original frame to make them as straight as possible.The only intrusion into the passenger compartment is the rear floorboard.... and that's only around an inch tall or so. Not bad. They are also FAR less visible from underneath the car. They look almost factory. Good Luck!
Does anyone have any pictures of doing it this way??
I'm doing this for a customer and i'm trying to decide what is the best way to overcome the slight offset between the front and rear subframe.
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 07-18-2006 10:38 PM
This is how my guy did mine without cutting into the floors 
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CraigStephens
Journeyman Posts: 39
From: Atlanta Area
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 07-19-2006 11:32 AM
I have Total Control subframes on my '68 Convert. and am very happy with them.Craig
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66 fastback
Gearhead Posts: 223
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 07-19-2006 01:26 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Jake11:
Doug Nordin=Global West, not too sharp.
buyer beware. Makes "pretty" parts
Just what are you trying to say? Global West does not make quality parts? Or are you just holding some kind of grudge against your former employer? There are a lot of car out there running these parts without any problems.
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