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Author
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Topic: Fusible link?
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 08:26 AM
   
Any idea what one of these looks like or where they are on a 67 S code? If I have any at all, they have been modified from their original location, but I'm looking for a place to start. My car isn't getting juice anywhere past the solenoid. Are these possibly eyelets? I have one that has yellow and black wires and a couple others including a red one.
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lreeder
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 02:33 PM
There is no fuse link on it. Going from memory, you've got a wiring harness that is routed from the solenoid (and other places) under the battery tray and along, or inside, the front crossmember, along the left aprons and shocktower, to a plug just outside the firewall. First off, check the plug. see if you've got power to any of the connectors there. If you do, check the wiring under the dash for burns, breaks, etc. If that looks good (like I said 2 days ago) replace the ignition switch. If you don't have power at the firewall plug, you've got a break, or a burn through (I think you said you had smoke under the hood) in the harness. Find the bad spot and repair it or replace the harness.
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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead Posts: 1144
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 07-29-2003 02:34 PM
The fusible links I've seen in the past look like a larger size wire then what they are spliced to at either end. And they were usually mounted in a convenient place so they could be replaces when they blew. Look near the solenoid and follow the large wire back through the harness. I should either go to a fuse block or the headlight switch first.Tracy
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 03:05 PM
If it smoked somewhere under the hood, and now there is no power past the solenoid, I would suspect a short somewhere, or possibly look for a lost ground somewhere. basic rules when it comes to electronics, you must have a continous loop for current to flow, and...it doesn't work if you let the smoke out.
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 03:48 PM
The wiring on this car makes this especially challenging to someone like me without a clue. The battery(s) are in the trunk, the voltage regulator is moved over nect to the coil, there are a bunch of eyelet terminations (yellow, black, red) that are screwed and taped together and just lying next to alternator. I believe these should really be mounted to solenoid. There is a ceramic block insulating (?) a wire feeding a Mallory coil. It uses a Ford Racing mini high torque starter. Their is no apparent wire insulation damage anywhere. Chilton and Haynes both say there is are fuse links, but I appear to have none. (lreeder), you are correct about the wiring path. Should I be getting 12v at the alternator bat terminal whether the key is turned or not?
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 04:26 PM
I believe the ceramic block you are referring to is a high watt resistor for the coil. I would also check the connectors that are screwed and taped together, there may be a bare spot that is touching up against against the chassis or somewhere it doesn't belong. the other guys could maybe double check my reasoning, but I don't think you should have voltage anywhere but your battery with the key off. Being very careful, i would remove the + clamp and lightly touch it to the battery post and see if you get a slight arc with the key off and the doors shut so that there is no voltage drain. if you get a slight arc with all off, then there is a short somewhere. guys?
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 04:42 PM
Is that ceramic block a Ford factory, Mallory or other thing? I can't imagine it's the way it came.
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 04:48 PM
could be, some coils came with internal resitors, and some came with external. it depends on the coil. you might also look on the resistor and see what the resistance in ohms is and see if it's open. it should have it listed on the side. if you have a short and replace your fusible link, it's just going to take out the fusible link again. better to find the cause first.
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 04:52 PM
thanks. I'll try to unravel this tonight. If I don't, I have help that has a clue coming tomorrow night.
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lreeder
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 07:02 PM
quote:
Should I be getting 12v at the alternator bat terminal whether the key is turned or not?[/B]
Yes, you should have +12v (or whatever the battery voltage actually is at the time) on the positive terminal on the alternator. On the factory wiring, one of the lugs you're referring to runs to the center connector of a 3 prong plug which in turns connects to the alternator. The ceramic block you're seeing was added at one time. It's a ballast resistor. Original wiring would have had a pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil.
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 07:10 PM
Thanks, Now I have new problem that's probably related to this problem. When I jump the solenoid now, the starter engages, but doesn't turn over the motor. Battery charge is good and charge is still good at the solenoid.
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 07:19 PM
quote:
Originally posted by lreeder:
Yes, you should have +12v (or whatever the battery voltage actually is at the time) on the positive terminal on the alternator. On the factory wiring, one of the lugs you're referring to runs to the center connector of a 3 prong plug which in turns connects to the alternator.The ceramic block you're seeing was added at one time. It's a ballast resistor. Original wiring would have had a pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil.
would that pink resistor wire you mention be the fusible link he's refering to?
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66 coupe
289
C4 auto
"someone who knows how will always have a job working for someone who knows why"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-29-2003 07:24 PM
Tony the way I understand it. Is a fusible link is a wire that will burn up and cut current, at a certain volt or amp level. Where as a resistor wire cuts down the amount of volts that can flow through it.------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 07:35 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Tony the way I understand it. Is a fusible link is a wire that will burn up and cut current, at a certain volt or amp level. Where as a resistor wire cuts down the amount of volts that can flow through it.
that makes sense, perhaps I should do a little more homework before I go spilling advice.
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66 coupe
289
C4 auto
"someone who knows how will always have a job working for someone who knows why"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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lreeder
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 07-29-2003 11:30 PM
Fastymz is right. Two different things. If my memory isn't failing me today (today's a good day, I think) fuseable links didn't appear on any American made cars until around 1973. I believe Chrysler products first used them. Ford and GM followed suit a couple of years later.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 827
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-30-2003 08:50 PM
Has your car ever ran since the battery has been moved to the trunk? It sounds like someone started the relocating the battery and never completed all the wiring required and you are trying to finish it.I would look at the ground strap from the engine to the frame, it might not be making a good connection. Also since the battery is located in the trunk it should be a heavy gauge wire.
I would think that the eyelet terminals you described did connect to the solenoid, and should have a 12 volt supply connected to them to supply power to the electrical system of the car. Are there any wires connected to the battery side of the solenoid or the positive battery post, other than the battery cable?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-31-2003 02:03 AM
The black wire on my 65 goes to the batt,side of the starter solenoid.It sends power the ignition switch without it nothing works.
The yellow wire on my car also goes to the batt side not sure what it does?
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SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-31-2003 05:04 AM
Solved! The weird eyelet splices must have bounced arround and shorted, causing the ampmeter to short out. Everything ran from ampmeter so it died. The ampmeter was letting voltage through intermitently, so it would start sometimes and then die. Thanks all. It was the wiring.
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lreeder
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 07-31-2003 09:47 AM
Glad you got it figured out. Ain't electrical fun? LOL
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-31-2003 10:16 AM
Electrical is no fun at all. It's always been an "Oz behind the curtain" thing for me. Now I need to figure wiring this linelock...............
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 07-31-2003 11:00 AM
Glad you got it going. 
------------------
66 coupe
289
C4 auto
"someone who knows how will always have a job working for someone who knows why"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-31-2003 03:11 PM
Good to hear you got it running.  ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2058
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-01-2003 09:05 AM
quote:
Originally posted by HHStang:
Electrical is no fun at all. It's always been an "Oz behind the curtain" thing for me. Now I need to figure wiring this linelock...............
I'm right there with ya, HH, regarding "behind the curtain"! But I can say that a line-lock isn't too, too bad to wire in. I installed a Hurst Line-Lock and their directions were pretty good to follow. If you don't have good directions, I'd call the Hurst Tech line and ask them to fax you a copy of the install directions. The only thing I didn't like was the tie-wrap thingy to hold the switch onto the shifter. It doesn't hold it very secure - it slides down or spins around. I wish I could figure out a better way to secure it on the shifter. Good Luck!
Ryan
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4857
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 08-01-2003 09:43 AM
The only thing I didn't like was the tie-wrap thingy to hold the switch onto the shifter. It doesn't hold it very secure - it slides down or spins around. I wish I could figure out a better way to secure it on the shifter.I don't know how the part looks, but is there someway to attach a small hoseclamp to it and mount it like that. (J.B.Weld, the poor mans fabricator!)Hell, if looks aren't as important a function, I'd wrap electrical tape around it after tie wrapping it.
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 372
From: SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 08-01-2003 05:47 PM
Fortunately, my B&M shifter has the switch built in. It doesn't appear that this will be a big deal, but I want the other problems fixed before I tear into this. It will just take time.........
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2058
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-06-2003 04:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by adragon8u:
...I don't know how the part looks, but is there someway to attach a small hoseclamp to it and mount it like that. (J.B.Weld, the poor mans fabricator!)Hell, if looks aren't as important a function, I'd wrap electrical tape around it after tie wrapping it.
The switch is small and made of plastic, so JB Weld is out; and I've thought about simply going the black electrical tape route, but then when its one of those 100+ degree days, the dang thing will be all slimy and slippery. The shifter is a chrome hurst stick, so adhesion is a problem. I even thought about drilling the shifter to bolt it on, but I'd have to come up with a studded or some such switch. Thanks for the suggestions though! Maybe I'll check into one of those shifter handles with a push button switch built into it; I could simply run the wire up the stick....? Ryan
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