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Author
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Topic: electronic choke
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surfnripcurl
Journeyman Posts: 87
From: state of confusion(s. carolina)
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 04-19-2003 01:25 PM
   
anyone ever wire their choker to the + on the coil. i wired mine to there but is this a good place to have it at (full 12 volts)or does anyone suggest somewhere else.it works when i get the car started.
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ewokeric
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: woodbridge, va united states
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 04-19-2003 02:29 PM
hook it to the accessory power that way when you have the key on it has power and when it is not it has nonei was told that was not a good place to hook the choke up to(the coil wire anyway) ------------------
68 mustang coupe(california special)not real though but looks it(will be nice) 351w/c4
My 68 Coupe
[url=http://mustangsamdmore.50megs.com/ewokeric.html]
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12673
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 04-19-2003 02:51 PM
I didn't like the idea of taking volts from the coil.So I went to the fuse block to a fuse that was only hot with the key on.------------------
SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 398
From: South Central MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-19-2003 03:37 PM
Check out this post for some more suggestions, I would not power it off the coil, I used a relay. I described how I did it at this link: https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/009678.html------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 302 with 600 holley, aluminum intake, headers, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.25 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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surfnripcurl
Journeyman Posts: 87
From: state of confusion(s. carolina)
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 04-19-2003 06:10 PM
maybe thats why i have a hard time starting in the morning,the choker is taking power from the coil? ill run to a fuse and see if that takes care of it. could i run this to my "i" post on the solonoid since i dont have anything running off of it(pushbutton start)?[This message has been edited by surfnripcurl (edited 04-19-2003).]
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 04-19-2003 08:46 PM
When I ran mine from the coil wire the car ran rougher than usual. I think its because its taking more current through the resistor wire and therefore it lowers the voltage available to the coil. My electronic logic may be flawed but the car definitley ran worse. I chose not to use "accessory" power because If i want to sit and listen to music with the engine off I didnt want the choke getting hot. I used the key hot wire from the back of the ignition switch (only get 12V when the key is in run position but not in accessory), then I ran the wire out through the firewall beside the blower motor wires so its barely visible under the hood. neat - tidy and works like a charm Phil ------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
66 heads, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust
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Jeff
Gearhead Posts: 280
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-22-2003 09:52 AM
quote:
Originally posted by surfnripcurl:
maybe thats why i have a hard time starting in the morning,the choker is taking power from the coil? ill run to a fuse and see if that takes care of it. could i run this to my "i" post on the solonoid since i dont have anything running off of it(pushbutton start)?[This message has been edited by surfnripcurl (edited 04-19-2003).]
Connecting electric choke to coil is a BAD idea if you coil has a ballast resistor (block resistor) or nichrome wire between the ignition switch and the coil. Most Fords have a nichrome wire thats "pink" in color that goes between the ignition switch and the firewall plug. Heres ways you can check: 1. visual. Look under dash and trace wire going from igntion switch into harness. If its pink or has connector connecting to pink or insulated wire then you have a "ballast" wire. 2. voltage. Measure voltage at coil. If less than 12 volts then you have a "ballast" wire. Why is this BAD? Because the "ballast wire" is designed to reduce the voltage when the car is running and connecting the electric choke impacts the voltage available to the coil - dragging it down. What to do? Connect the wire for the electric choke BEFORE the pink "ballast wire". On some cars this is easy and on some its not. If your car has a umbilical connector coming from the ignition switch and the pink wire plugs into it, simply make a "Y" connector from two female electrical connectors and one male electrical connector. Females go at top of "Y" and male goes at bottom. Disconnect pink wire. Plug in male from "Y". Plug pink wire into one of the "Y" females. Use the remaining "Y" female to connect to your electric choke. Now if there is no umbilical, you can use the central connector of the ignition switch "ACC" to connect the electric choke. The only drawback of using "ACC" is that if you key over to "ACC" while the engine is not running, it energizes the electric choke making it not available when you later go to start the engine (choke is already open).
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