Brought to you in part by:
Shop Eastwood for all your Auto Restoration Needs!

.


  Mustangsandmore Forums
  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  Pinion Gear Seal on Rear End

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Pinion Gear Seal on Rear End
rcrill
Journeyman

Posts: 16
From: Longmont, Colorado
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 02-03-2003 03:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rcrill   Click Here to Email rcrill     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The pinion seal of my 8" rear end is leaking. Other than that, there are no ugly noises or problems that I can detect. Is this seal simple to replace and is there anything else I should look at when I pull it? The rear end was rebuilt about 5 years ago (50K miles) with 3.55 ratio gears. The tag says WCZ-E 2.90 4JD 911. It is in a '65 Mustang, 289, C4 daily-driver.

IP: Logged

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 12673
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-03-2003 03:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'd check the ring and pinion teeth.Make sure they aren't chipped or broken off.Check the axle bearings while the axles are off.Also check the axle seals too.

For a novice mechanic like me.I'd say it's a straight forward job.But for me it was not easy physically only because I have a bad back.

------------------
SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

IP: Logged

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-03-2003 05:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You don't have to tear it down that far if you don't want to. Just drop the driveshaft, remove the big nut after a healthy bowl of Wheaties, and take the yoke off.

One thing you want to take a good look at since it has started leaking so soon after a rebuild is the seal mating surface on the yoke. If it's grooved you should replace it or you'll be doing the same job again soon.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com

IP: Logged

Huskinhano
Journeyman

Posts: 50
From: Montvale, NJ.
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 02-03-2003 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Huskinhano   Click Here to Email Huskinhano     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Unfortunately, once you remove the nut to remove the yoke to replace the seal, you'll loose the chrush on the chrush collar that sets the pinion depth. Some shops do away with the chrush collar uand use ships simply for that reason, that you can replace the seal without changing pinion settings.

Realistically, are you going to re-do everything? I think not. Just go ahead, put the new seal, clean all the threads and use some thread lock. Otherwise, the pinion nut will back off every once and a while. My old '78 E150 was like that. When the rear axle started to howl, it was time to tighten the pinion nut! *LOL*

IP: Logged

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 12673
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-03-2003 07:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
You don't have to tear it down that far if you don't want to. Just drop the driveshaft, remove the big nut after a healthy bowl of Wheaties, and take the yoke off.

One thing you want to take a good look at since it has started leaking so soon after a rebuild is the seal mating surface on the yoke. If it's grooved you should replace it or you'll be doing the same job again soon.


Oops I thought he said the 3rd member gasket.
Sorry about that,Steve's(but he knew that already ) right you dont have to take the axles off,or of the other things I said.
I'll read more carefully next time.

------------------
SCOOP
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

IP: Logged

RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 685
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-04-2003 03:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Before you remove the pinion nut mapk the nut and the pinion shaft with a scribe. When you loosen the nut count how many turns it takes to get the nut off. When you reinstall the nut screw on the number of turns counted and line the scribe line up. This way you do not affect the pinion bearing preload enough to cause a problem.

------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2003, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Members' Pics]

[ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [Mustangsandmore.com T-Shirts][Tech Articles]