Author
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Topic: Pinion Gear Seal on Rear End
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rcrill Journeyman Posts: 16 From: Longmont, Colorado Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 02-03-2003 03:20 PM
The pinion seal of my 8" rear end is leaking. Other than that, there are no ugly noises or problems that I can detect. Is this seal simple to replace and is there anything else I should look at when I pull it? The rear end was rebuilt about 5 years ago (50K miles) with 3.55 ratio gears. The tag says WCZ-E 2.90 4JD 911. It is in a '65 Mustang, 289, C4 daily-driver.
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 12673 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-03-2003 03:40 PM
I'd check the ring and pinion teeth.Make sure they aren't chipped or broken off.Check the axle bearings while the axles are off.Also check the axle seals too.For a novice mechanic like me.I'd say it's a straight forward job.But for me it was not easy physically only because I have a bad back. ------------------ SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 2.26 60'S 14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 34763 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 02-03-2003 05:46 PM
You don't have to tear it down that far if you don't want to. Just drop the driveshaft, remove the big nut after a healthy bowl of Wheaties, and take the yoke off. One thing you want to take a good look at since it has started leaking so soon after a rebuild is the seal mating surface on the yoke. If it's grooved you should replace it or you'll be doing the same job again soon. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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Huskinhano Journeyman Posts: 50 From: Montvale, NJ. Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-03-2003 05:56 PM
Unfortunately, once you remove the nut to remove the yoke to replace the seal, you'll loose the chrush on the chrush collar that sets the pinion depth. Some shops do away with the chrush collar uand use ships simply for that reason, that you can replace the seal without changing pinion settings.Realistically, are you going to re-do everything? I think not. Just go ahead, put the new seal, clean all the threads and use some thread lock. Otherwise, the pinion nut will back off every once and a while. My old '78 E150 was like that. When the rear axle started to howl, it was time to tighten the pinion nut! *LOL*
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 12673 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-03-2003 07:35 PM
quote: Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere: You don't have to tear it down that far if you don't want to. Just drop the driveshaft, remove the big nut after a healthy bowl of Wheaties, and take the yoke off. One thing you want to take a good look at since it has started leaking so soon after a rebuild is the seal mating surface on the yoke. If it's grooved you should replace it or you'll be doing the same job again soon.
Oops I thought he said the 3rd member gasket. Sorry about that,Steve's(but he knew that already ) right you dont have to take the axles off,or of the other things I said. I'll read more carefully next time.
------------------ SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 2.26 60'S 14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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RonnieT Gearhead Posts: 685 From: Port Allen, La. 70767 Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-04-2003 03:42 PM
Before you remove the pinion nut mapk the nut and the pinion shaft with a scribe. When you loosen the nut count how many turns it takes to get the nut off. When you reinstall the nut screw on the number of turns counted and line the scribe line up. This way you do not affect the pinion bearing preload enough to cause a problem.------------------ Ronnie 69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time! 70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker" Mustangs and More Member #23
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