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Author
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Topic: Putting in headers in a couple of days. Any suggestions?
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BaLleRz68
Gearhead Posts: 103
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 01:26 AM
   
I bought some long tube headers at a Good guys car show for $40 and i'm going to put them in this week. Does anybody have any tips and suggestions? I read somewhere that I have to jack up the engine on one side, does anybody know which side it is? Which one needs to go from the bottom or the top? What is a safe jacking point to jack the engine? I also bought a power steering lowering bracket, does anybody know how that goes in? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 11-25-2002 04:07 AM
Assuming you have a V8, chances are you can pop the right side in from the top, but the left side will have to go in from underneath. If you've got power steering, anticipate all sorts of "fun".
Detach the engine mounts from the frame, not from the block. Then place a thickish piece of wood under the oil pan and lift gently.
There are many tips I could pass on that are specific to Doug Thorley headers, but I don't think that's what you have. Here's one tip though: Once you finally have the headers lined up to the exhaust manifolds, you'll be tempted to slap the gasket sealant on the gaskets and tighten everything up before lowering the engine back into place. Do a test run first. I didn't, and found that when I lowered the engine back down, it wouldn't fit. I had to remove the headers again to do the necessary hack job down there.
Good luck! You are undertaking what is probably the WORST job you will ever undertake on your Stang!
Simon
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senzstang
Gearhead Posts: 122
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 07:21 AM
I agree with Simon - worst job to do! Get a pair of Mechanix glove to preserve your knuckles!Phil
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 672
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 09:48 AM
Take your time, DON'T drink any beer, and have a friend give a helping hand.[This message has been edited by Hell_Fish (edited 11-25-2002).]
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BaLleRz68
Gearhead Posts: 103
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 10:26 AM
I have a c-code 289 BTW.
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senzstang
Gearhead Posts: 122
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 01:18 PM
Everyone is joking including me because somehow a simple bolt-in job becomes a miserable day long affair. There are no special tricks beyond what was already said about lifting one side of the engine. Murpy's law takes on some wierd multiplication factor with headers. It's only 32 bolts to the heads right? Well 1 will break, 1 will strip, you won't be able to get a socket on one, you'll find out a previous owner stripped a bolt hole then filled it with JB Weld and pushed a bolt in (don't ask how I know). Take your time and be patient. I hope yours go quick and easy! Let us know.Phil
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senzstang
Gearhead Posts: 122
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 01:20 PM
Maybe mine were so difficult because I was trying to put in 32 bolts! Sorry for the error.Phil
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1214
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-25-2002 01:42 PM
Before you install them, have them sandblasted and then paint them with Krylon 1200 degree ceramic paint. You can get it at Auto Zone and the stuff works great. You can get it in aluminum or black. If you want a dressed up look, go with the aluminum. Make sure you use header gaskets and not manifold gaskets and soak them in water a few hours before you put them on. I've never actually tried that but I've heard it works well for sealing. You'll also have to re-torque the bolts after you run them in the first time.
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 11-25-2002 08:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by senzstang:
Maybe mine were so difficult because I was trying to put in 32 bolts! Sorry for the error.Phil
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oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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71RESTO
Gearhead Posts: 1288
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-25-2002 09:19 PM
It's really not TOOOOO bad, but just take your time. You have to jack up the drivers side, and that can be done be unbolting the driver's side motor mount and jack about 1", which should be enough to allow you to slide the header up from underneath.
Also, if you have power steering, you'll need to get a longer bracket for the assist cylinder(it bolts to the frame on the driver's side) from someone like Hedmann. It's about 4" long (stock is about 1")and bolts right into the same bolt holes as stock and should run about $20. Also make sure to get this welded to the frame when you're done or it will rip right out of the frame due to the extra torque from a lower position. If you have power steering and don't do this, the headers won't fit.
I just went through this 3 months ago on my daughter's car, so it is still fresh in my mind.------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (his) under resto (351C-4V C6 auto)
73 Mach 1 (hers) (351CJ 4 speed)
66 289/2V coupe (daughter Ashley's)
89 LX 2.3 convertible (daughter Amanda's)
M & M Member #730
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 3600
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-25-2002 10:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Hell_Fish:
Take your time, DON'T drink any beer, and have a friend give a helping hand.[This message has been edited by Hell_Fish (edited 11-25-2002).]
hell fish, i was just going to tell him to get a friend that had lots of beer!!!! ------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.
http://prestage.com/site/site_display.asp?SiteID=141
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 11-25-2002 11:50 PM
I did this job all on my own -- crazy! Everything that could possibly go wrong went wrong.
As God is my witness, it took me six weeks, working about four evenings a week.
My beer intake also went up enormously.
I will never do it again.
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MrWesson22
Gearhead Posts: 1209
From: Dacula, GA
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 11-26-2002 12:04 AM
I'm still working on mine. My super comps are good quality, but they don't fit a 4 speed worth a sh1t. One of the primaries comes right behind the clutch fork. I've been banging and prying for a couple months and ALMOST have enough clearance to operate my clutch, but I'm unwilling to dent that tube up any worse than it already is. I'm just going to take it somewhere and get them to heat it up and bend it out of the way for me (I don't have the tools or the knowledge). Headers are like women. They're a huge PITA, but you've just gotta have em. 
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Neal 69 Gulfstream Aqua Grande
351C/4sp
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/MrWesson22.html
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mustangboy
Gearhead Posts: 670
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-26-2002 12:06 AM
Lots of great tips so far,I'll just add don't tighten any of the bolts along the exhaust ports until you have all the bolts started.Usually the bolts on the front side of the pipes are a straight shot in and are easy to get in but the ones on the back side of the pipes usually have to contend with the curves of the pipe as they sweep towards the back of the car.If the header is in tight you won't be able to start these bolts and you may even have to tighten them all a little bit at a time until you get the header up to the head.Also most header gaskets have the end holes made so you can just hang the gasket in place if you start the front bolt and the very rear bolt first.
Good luck,sometimes these things go on pretty easy.Other times 
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RADRIDE
Gearhead Posts: 243
From: Va.Beach, Va.
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 11-28-2002 11:35 AM
My Hooker Comps could be installed with-out lifting motor,but now with new higher flowing alum. heads I had to up grade to Super-Comps what a PITA,but well worth it in the end they look great.Had to lift both sides and pull fan shroud to allow this.Then the fun begins.65 FB w/289 & T-5 no power anything.
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dubstar
Gearhead Posts: 423
From: Long Beach, Ca 1966 A-Code Coupe
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 11-28-2002 02:40 PM
i dont know how all you go into doing so much work for headers! my Tri Y's slid right in, bolted right up, and were nice and loud for the 3 weeks i was running straight headers! Ballerz68, make sure to put in the Lowering Bracket BEFORE you put your headers in! and when you get your exaust done, ask them to Tack Weld it for you.. they shouldnt charge anything for it. -Laytro. Good luck!
PS: some people mentioned Beer, definitly drink some, get some gloves, and do not, under any circumstances, EVER (!!!) drink a Wine Cooler. Cooers light is the OFFICIAL 'workin on your car beer' (says me) ------------------
Tuesday's Gone With The Wind.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-28-2002 02:43 PM
Same here. On my '72, I threw them at it and they stuck right on. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 11-28-2002 02:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Same here. On my '72, I threw them at it and they stuck right on.
Wow! Magnetic headers 
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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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RADRIDE
Gearhead Posts: 243
From: Va.Beach, Va.
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 11-28-2002 04:58 PM
My heads are also held on with studs not bolts and they stick up a good inch above where a bolt head would end.Also tri-ys are a lot more compact than most.Another thing is engine compartment size.Im sure the 72 would have more room to play with unless its got a 429 in place.
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