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  Winterizing the Classic... what suggestions do you have?

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Author Topic:   Winterizing the Classic... what suggestions do you have?
Ralph Rebandt
Gearhead

Posts: 481
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 08-21-2002 09:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph Rebandt   Click Here to Email Ralph Rebandt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, Woodward Dream Cruise has come and gone. I guess this is mostly a question for those of us in the colder areas of the country where we can (or won't) drive our Stangs during the winter months. I now have a car worth protecting. What do you suggest? Things like drain the gas tank? Fill the gas tank? Use that stuff for winterizing the gas? Do you all heat the garage? etc, and always, thanks!

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1968 Convertible - almost done

"If your going through hell, keep going" - Winston Churchill
www.ohcc.net

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 1129
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-21-2002 10:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I put a fuel stabilizer in there for the winter because the cars don?t get around enough for me to refill the tanks. I do start them every once in a while and move up and down the driveway to keep things lubed up. Cars are kept in a garage with no heat unless I?m working in there.

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68 S-code FB GT 4spd(now C6)/3.25 PS PDB
68 J-code(now 289) Cp Sprint"B" C4/3L00-9" PDB PS AC
99 F150 XLT Ext/cab, 4X4, 5.4L, 3L55
95 Explorer XLT with the works! (Wife?s car)

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BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 388
From: South Central MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 08-21-2002 11:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Put fuel stabilizer in the tank as mentioneed, and my dad always likes to take the air cleaner off and speed the motor up a bit and pour some motor oil down the choke horn, this will make the motor smoke out the exhaust and it will make a hissing sound, but it oils the top end and the cylinder walls. This greatly helps keep the valves and cylinder walls from rusting. Then he slows the motor down and shuts it off and puts the air cleaner back on.

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73trials
Gearhead

Posts: 875
From: New Orleans, La. M&M member # 1752
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 08-21-2002 11:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 73trials   Click Here to Email 73trials     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Winter? What's that? You mean when the temps drop down into the 70's?

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Erwin
'73 convertible slowly taking shape

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 08-22-2002 07:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
In the 70's. Come on!!! That's skiing weather!! LOL! Move South Ralph. To repeat an oft used winter remark heard on M&M...I hate snow and Northern winters!!

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Ralph Rebandt
Gearhead

Posts: 481
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 08-22-2002 07:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph Rebandt   Click Here to Email Ralph Rebandt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What do I do with the snowmobiles if I move down south?

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FloJoe
Gearhead

Posts: 518
From: Port Orange, FL, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 08-22-2002 10:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for FloJoe   Click Here to Email FloJoe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ralph Rebandt:
What do I do with the snowmobiles if I move down south?

Sell'em for parts

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Joe Fields
68 Fastback 289ci bored .030 over
C-4
"If it wasn't for pick-pockets I'd have no sex life at all."
Rodney Dangerfield.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-22-2002 03:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ralph Rebandt:
What do I do with the snowmobiles if I move down south?

Snowmobile drag racing it's cool.
I hate winter,I just put my car in garage and start it and drive it as much as I can.

SCOOP

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2.634 60's
[email protected] 1/8 mile

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Cragar SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 08-22-2002 03:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Trade those snow mobiles in for ATV's!

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Boss302
Gearhead

Posts: 841
From: Coleman, Wisconsin
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 08-22-2002 07:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Boss302   Click Here to Email Boss302     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
Trade those snow mobiles in for ATV's!

oh, but snowmobiles are so much more fun!

MaxTang is gonna get ready for hybernation pretty soon, any tips for winterizing my 5.0?

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Max
-1989 Mustang GT (MaxTang)
225/50R15 tires
BBK Strut Brace
K&N Filter
4 cats, no muffs
180* stat
Member 1,861

"My Best Friend, Is My Car"

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1539
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-23-2002 10:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ralph,
I've stored my car over the 5-6 months of Michigan winters for the past 25+ years.
This is what I do:

#1) Fill the gas tank with Mid-Grade or Premium fuel (that way I don't have to mess around with an additive & it reduces the amount of airspace in the tank that could produce water condensation inside the tank).

#2) If you use a synthetic motor oil, then your fine. If you don't, when you change your oil in Sept/Oct prior to storage, add your 4-qts of regular oil & 1 qt. of a full syn oil. Of course your change your filter too.

#3) Check & top off the other fluid levels, add a small can of 'waterpump & seal lube' into the coolant and bring tire pressures to 30-psi.

#4) If it's going to be stored inside, I only disconnect the neg battery cable. If it's being stored outside, I remove the battery and bring it indoors and store it on a wooden board.

#5) Then about every 30 days or so, I re-connect the battery cable (or re-install battery), start it and let it run at a high idle (1200-1500) for about 4-5 minutes. Then I back it out and drive it around the yard a bit - keeping it out of ANY road-salt crap! If for some reason I can't drive it around a bit, I jack up the rear and secure jackstands under the rear - then put it in gear. This will allow the trans, pumpkin, axles & rear tires to turn; this stirs the lubes, turns all the gears, bearings, and re-lubes the seals. However, this doesn't turn the front wheels any; so after that, I'd jack up and spin the front tires some, so the bearings & seals don't sit in one spot longer than 30 days. By running it every month or so, I don't worry about the valve springs taking a 'set' or water pump, timing & main seals from drying out.

Also: If you have air/conditioning, don't forget to turn on the MAX A/C every month (yes, even in 20 degrees!) and let it run for five or so minutes; to allow the A/C compressor & seals to warm and lube themselves.

I prefer storage inside, or at least covered outside. If you've got a convertible & parking it outside, then place a piece of beach towel then wooden paneling on the top, under the tarp. This will prevent the snow load from sagging the top between 30 day intervals. Park it on high & dry pavement, gravel, raw dirt or even a tarp (held down by boards, stones or such), but don't park it where moisture will be - or on grass. Grass not only holds moisture but also prevents enough drying air from passing under the car. The moisture causes condensation to form on the underside. Grass also invites mice to use your car as a condo! If you still want to park it on grass and without a tarp down, cut the grass as short as you can & then raise the car off the ground with a cement block under each tire (8"). To keep the interior from drying out, wipe it down with some Armor-All or similar.

Come Spring, check all the fluids agan and adjust tire pressures for warmer driving; visually inspect it top to bottom and then take the first few drives easy without the radio on, so you can listen for any odd noises..... If all is well, then re-fill the tank with fresh fuel, turn on the radio and cruise ON!!

OK, so this got long, maybe 3 cents worth!!

Ryan

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Ralph Rebandt
Gearhead

Posts: 481
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 08-23-2002 11:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph Rebandt   Click Here to Email Ralph Rebandt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Ryan. Lots of good stuff.

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