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  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  PASSNGR SIDE WINDOW (coupe 66)

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Author Topic:   PASSNGR SIDE WINDOW (coupe 66)
DONNIE1
Gearhead

Posts: 254
From: conover nc
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 07-07-2002 11:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DONNIE1   Click Here to Email DONNIE1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
over past few days., this window rollup continuted to get harder and harder..finally its up BUT WON'T ROLL BACK DOWN..IS THE REG GONE/OR SHOULD I go INTO IT AND ADJUST SOMEWAY....? (advise please.)thanks guys..IS IT HARD TO GET TO THE REG/?

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-07-2002 02:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Donnie I'd take off the panel and check the window bushing,they are little plastic pieces.There are 3 of them,if all or any of them break it will make the window not go up or down.I just had to replace them all in my 65 I went ahead and did both doors.It's not a hard job,but I have fat hands so it was hard for me to reach in there.Also clean and lube the tracks and regulator while your in there.

SCOOP

------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede.

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DONNIE1
Gearhead

Posts: 254
From: conover nc
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 07-07-2002 04:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DONNIE1   Click Here to Email DONNIE1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
is the panel the "insert" ?., and NOT the entire dorr face, right??!! thanks..will do.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-07-2002 05:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The insert panel, behind window cranks.Take the cranks and door handle off.then the panel pulls off.

SCOOP

------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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Jeff
Gearhead

Posts: 280
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 07-08-2002 03:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jeff   Click Here to Email Jeff     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll assume you have '65/'66. While the rollers may need replacing, this is not the usual cause of failure for a window that's been working fine for a long time. What usually happens is the moleskin in the back channel wears out. As it grows thin and exposes the metal channel, the window will bind progressively more and more. Throwing a lot of grease on this usually results in deteriorating the moleskin even more. What to do? Note adjustment of window by marking the lower channel adjustment as viewed through the bottom removed hole filler. What you'll see is the rear of the channel and the attachment nut. After loosing the nut, the channel can be moved left or right with a large screwdriver acting as a pry. Before loosening it, etch the position of the channel relative to the door shell bracket. You'll want to install it like it was and if you don't mark it, you'll spend a lot of time finding the sweet spot again. Once marked, find the up locks and remove them (one removes at rear of window and one removes at front of window). With the uplocks removed and the rollers removed, the window will pull out the top of the door shell. Note: there is a catch on the window frame for the rear uplock. Use a wide putty knife inserted in the window and over the catch so it can glide upwards past the window shell (else it will catch on the door shell). Once the window is out, remove the body screws and nuts on the back edge of the door to remove the channel. Okay, this part seems hard...the next part is worse! Clean the old moleskin from the interior of the channel. Sand it if necessary to get every speck of the old moleskin out. Do not take backing paper off the new moleskin. Rather cut cardboard forms the shape of the channel bottom, then sides until they exactly fit in the channel. Lay these on the moleskin then cut with a fresh industrial razor to match the forms you've created. Take the piece cut for the bottom of the channel and peel off the backing and stick to the bottom. The adhesive on the new moleskin is powerful stuff and so you have to get it in good alignment from the start...no matter what you'll be cussing and swearing! After you get the three pieces in (why weren't they pre-cut!) then its window reassembly time. Reverse order of disassembly and put the window back in. Install the uplocks and rollers. Adjust the uplocks until the upper edge of the window matches the roofline weatherstrip. The combination of front uplock/back uplock takes care of the height and contour of the window. Once these are done, set the channel adjustment at the bottom hole cover to the mark previously made. If you failed to mark it, then adjust the channel right/left such that it appears an extension of the window arc. Tighten the nut to the point where it meets the bracket but do not make it firm. Roll the window down and see if it operates correctly. If it does, tighten the nut. Put hole covers back on and replace the gasket at the top rear of door shell.

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DONNIE1
Gearhead

Posts: 254
From: conover nc
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 07-09-2002 11:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DONNIE1   Click Here to Email DONNIE1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thanks JEFF., I'll try to find catalog to order new moleskin...you and others are great help..THIS IS THE BEST SITE ON THE WEB FOR MUSTANGS AND ALWAYS..."help is on the way".

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