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Author
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Topic: How to make my car stop better
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-26-2002 02:47 AM
   
I have all drums now,I need to stay with this set up for some time.I cant do disc right now.I think the drums should stop my light car pretty good.I have new shoes new rear drums and all rebuilt or replaced brake parts.I drained and flushed the system too.I bleed the brakes real good too.The still is slow to stop,is this the best it can do.Or is there some trick I dont know of.
Please give me your tips or tricks.SCOOP ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 06-26-2002 07:27 AM
A good disc package is the Granada/Monarch front disc brake setup which is a junkyard deal. Also, check Sam Griffith's (Sigtauenus) article on M&M re larger drum brakes for the rear. Another junkyard deal-good article.
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Hemikiller
Gearhead Posts: 395
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 06-26-2002 07:33 AM
Scoop: Have you replaced you hoses and whell cylinders? If the hoses are old they may be collapsing internally, limiting the pressure the brakes see.. If the wheel cylinders are getting sticky it will cause problems for you as well.
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18183
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-26-2002 10:13 PM
SCOOP...
drive slower and your stopping distance will be less...LOL... 
sam
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Billgear
Gearhead Posts: 182
From: Concord,CA
Registered: May 2000
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posted 06-26-2002 10:45 PM
How about some better gripping shoes for
your drum brake. Porterfield makes good
performance type shoes for older cars.------------------
Regards,
BillGear 1966 Coupe
Balanced 302
AFR Aluminum 165cc heads
Custom FTI Cam 565@284
Weiand Stealth Intake
Hooker Super Comps
T-5 Transmission with 3.55 gears
All the suspension goodies.
www.289mustang.com
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 06-26-2002 11:06 PM
Cut a hole in the floorpan and 'Fred Flinstone' the thing to a stop 
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1312
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 06-27-2002 10:46 AM
I'm with Hemikiller on this. Before I sold my 2nd coupe, we took apart the wheel cylinders and boy was there some gunk in there. I'm talking "mud-like" substance!! We didn't have replacements on hand at the time, but we took them apart and cleaned them real good. The car didn't pull to the left anymore and stopped a whole lot better. If they are leaking, replace them ASAP. If you clean them are they START leaking, replace them ASAP. Also, old brake hoses should be replaced too.Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-27-2002 10:51 AM
10-4 on the wheel cylinder slime.
Also, do you have a good master cylinder? You can get a Ranger one from a junk yard for $5. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-27-2002 12:12 PM
Hemikiller,yes the hoses and wheel cylinders are all new.New springs and shoes too.Alex,The M/C is the single stock org one,will changing it help with braking?
If so which one do I get,and whats needed to put it on.Pete,thanks and maybe next summer on the disc brakes.
On my stops ok now,but just seems like it should be better.It still pulls alittle to the left.
Sam,and Todd, 
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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-27-2002 12:15 PM
OH YEAH will it! that dinky OEM single has a HUGE piston and gives very little pressure. Get a Ranger/Explorer dual plastic unit from a junk yard, a few lengths of 3/16 brake line, and a couple of brass fittings to get yourself some good stopping power. Whole deal should be less than $50 and your time. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 06-27-2002 12:23 PM
That's a good tip!
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-27-2002 03:10 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
OH YEAH will it! that dinky OEM single has a HUGE piston and gives very little pressure. Get a Ranger/Explorer dual plastic unit from a junk yard, a few lengths of 3/16 brake line, and a couple of brass fittings to get yourself some good stopping power. Whole deal should be less than $50 and your time.
Alex I'm not going to question to you,after you helped me with my trans.Because the car drives so much better.
But will that M/C work on my NON power all drums brake set up?
I've also heard that the 67 mustang M/C works good too,is the ranger one better? SCOOP ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1312
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 06-27-2002 04:25 PM
Hey Scoop,I can vouch for the '67 dual master cylinder. We did that to my dad's '66 coupe and it stops great. The pedal came up a bit and doesn't need a lot of pressure to stop the car. The bowl closest to the firewall goes to the front breaks and the bowl closest to the bumper goes to the rear. Just plug up the open port on the distribution block where you'll remove the rear line. Bending the lines is the only time consuming task. But someone recommended using a wire hanger and making a model of how the line should be bent. That makes it 10 times easier. Someone also recommended to use a propane torch to bend the lines easier, but we didn't do it. The bender we have is just as easy. Erik Alex, what year Ranger? ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-27-2002 05:05 PM
Thanks Erik for the help and info.
I'll wait to see what ALex has to add about the ranger one.If not I'll go the 67 way.Did you Eric just get a rebuilt one from a parts store or a junk yard one?
SCOOP
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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-28-2002 01:22 PM
TTT... scoop ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-29-2002 03:21 PM
Hey Alex what year ranger M/C and will it work with non power all drum brakes.SCOOP ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 06-29-2002 05:25 PM
Also Alex,
Can you take the power booster with the Ranger unit and use it?
I am going to put power and dual chamber m/c on my '65......is the Ranger the way to go?Thanks
Harry
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-01-2002 12:58 PM
Hey Sir Alex, you back or what.  SCOOP ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 405
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 07-01-2002 09:55 PM
hey guys if u dont mind a little bit of drilling and modifying u can use a fox body mc and booster u just have to drill 4 holes in the firewall and enlarge the rod hole a little it will bring ur pedal up a little makes a lot of diff in stopping power oh yeah and ull need to make a plate to brace the bottom 2 bolts whole deal took me bout 2-3 hours to do ------------------
Josh
67 coupe with 351c
94 Explorer
30 model A currently rustbucket
in process 67 convt with efi 5.0 and t5
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 07-01-2002 10:28 PM
Scoop,The original v-8 drums on Melissa's '66 work well enough to stop it from 123+ mph so far on the track. The best thing about disc's is their fade resistance. I wouldn't want to try it three times in a row! 
We're using the '67 m/c w/o a power booster. SteveW
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 07-01-2002 10:38 PM
Hi guys.
85-90 Ranger units are the ones that I use.
It will work great with 4w drums.
I have never used the booster, but I am certain that you can make it work if you want the power assist. It is not a very long unit, and it is a nice compact booster.
Anything else? ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl
IP: Logged |
rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1312
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 07-01-2002 11:57 PM
Scoop,I would never get a master cylinder from a junk yard (just me...). We went rebuilt with a lifetime warranty. Around $25. New is what everyone recommends though. Oh, make sure to use your original '65-'66 Pushrod. You'll have to break the original master cylinder to remove the rod. The '67 pushrod WILL NOT work correctly. Make sure to also install the brake stop ring so the pedal doesn't come out. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 07-02-2002 12:50 AM
Thanks Alex. I will keep you posted as to how it works out.
Harry
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-04-2002 12:41 PM
Thanks Alex and SteveW,I will give the 67 M/C a try.Erik,I go with a rebiult one,not used from the yard.
And can you go over this with alittle more detail, "make sure to use your original '65-'66 Pushrod. You'll have to break the original master cylinder to remove the rod. The '67 pushrod WILL NOT work correctly. Make sure to also install the brake stop ring so the pedal doesn't come out." I dont know what you mean by a brake stop ring? SCOOP ------------------
65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 07-04-2002 06:11 PM
Hey Scoop, I'm putting a '67 m/c in my car also... front discs on the GT . I'm gonna watch this thread closely, because I too understood that the '67 unit in a 65 needs a longer pushrod, but it seems we need the stock '65 rod after all...  You will need to either bend & tweak your brake lines from the m/c to the proportioning valve and distribution block or get new ones and bend those; the '65 m/c outlets face foreward, the '67 outlets face left (driver's side). I've already got a '67 m/c, but just for sh*ts and giggles I'm going to look at a late 80's Ranger model per Alex's recommendation, that might be just as easy if not easier
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-04-2002 06:16 PM
Opps SCOOP
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-04-2002 06:19 PM
Hey Alex with that ranger M/C what push rod do you use.And dose that just bolt right up?Todd,
Wheres the proportioning valve now?
Ok so I'm not that smart,but I have gotten more women in to bed then all of you.
SCOOP
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65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8"3.40 TracLoc,Crager SS,Black Suede. https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 07-04-2002).]
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 07-04-2002 08:44 PM
I called every junk yard in town looking for a Ranger MC and Power assist unit. I found lots of MC's, they go for $15 around here, but no power assist units. Nobody has any.
If I get a '65 power booster, can I use a Ranger MC with it????
There is a guy that sells a dual MC/ and power assist unit with correct pushrod for '65/'66(all new) for $250. It is supposed to be Bendix parts, I think he is in Canada.
I am not sure which way I will go, but I really want to get this finished.
Harry
[This message has been edited by Harrys'65 (edited 07-04-2002).]
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 07-05-2002 08:18 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Ok so I'm not that smart,but I have gotten more women in to bed then all of you.
LOL!!! Damn Scoop, you bust me up The p/valve on my car (disc/drum) is just behind the shock tower on the driver's side, maybe 5 inches up from the frame rail
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68F100
Gearhead Posts: 2065
From: Fort Madison, Iowa USA - United We Stand
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 07-06-2002 12:28 AM
Can't ya just trace your brake lines to the distribution block?
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