Anyway, the Edelbrock heads. The RPM heads do have 2.02 intake valves, requiring piston fly-cutting for valve clearance. They do outperform most cast heads- but depending on how you build the rest of the motor (and its inended use), there are plenty of other aluminum heads out there with other features to concider. AFR offers several heads with different runner volumes, for example. Trick Flow rotates the valves to get away with 2.02's without fly-cutting (for most street cam profiles). These are just a few examples, not necessarily better or worse for a given motor; the trick is getting all the components working efficently with one another rather than fighting one another. Deep breathing aluminum heads are high-end, and need the entire package (cam, manifold & carb, exhaust, trans, etc.) to perform at thier potential. 300 degree mechanical roller cams are cool at 8000 RPM, but how useful are they from stoplight to stoplight?

The RPM heads do come with 1.90 valves too.I dont think the 1.90 reg,fly cuts.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.

MEM#1240

The rpm heads are also available with 1.90 intakes and aren't as racey as some think. Thumper sounds like he's describing Edelbrock's Victor heads. They are an excellent street/strip head choice. IMHO assuming you wanna make 350hp or more.

quote:

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Originally posted by richard bohm:
in reality the only reason to go to aluminum heads over equivelent cast iron heads is weight savings. you can drop 80lbs just by bolting on the aluminum heads.

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And they allow about .5 compression ratio increase without detonation problems!

quote:

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Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
...and they look bitchin'

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True!

You don't have to paint them either!

The package will come with new alluminum heads, cam, manifold, etc. From there I will add Headers and an open exhaust system as well as an updated electronic ignition.

In my previous life (Teanage Years ~16 years ago) I used to be a big Holly fan so I am curious about Edelbrock vs. Holly Carburators? I have read the various carb posts and I realize I will be looking at something in the 500 to 700 cfm range most likely right in the middle (600 cfm). Beyond that, I am open to any advise as what to look for for this application?

I am planning to do a frame off restoration of our Mustang, a '67 Convertible, so I have the option of having the engine bored if necessary. We are not looking to build a weekend cruiser with kick in the pants performace when she is asked to deliver but I don't want to build her so that all of our power comes when she is running wide open either. Accordingly, I am guessing that we should be able to get 300-hp and perhaps a little more with the right set of parts.

Also, the car has the factory C-4 trans and an 8-inch rear. I have read elsewhere that this combo may be capable of handling this much power but I have not checked if the rear is locking? As for the rear, I assume the best way to check if she is locking is to put the car on stands and see if I have torque at both wheels? Note, the car is not road legal at this time and I can't lay a patch of rubber in the neigherborhood so I am looking to determine if I need to look to rebuild or replace the rear to posi if necessary?