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Author Topic:   Some pointers
Hotdiggydog
Journeyman

Posts: 8
From: Warren, Ohio
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 02-28-2002 04:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hotdiggydog   Click Here to Email Hotdiggydog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What would you consider some of the most important pointers when going to purchase your first project car? Thanks for the input in advance.

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Hotdiggydog
Journeyman

Posts: 8
From: Warren, Ohio
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 02-28-2002 05:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hotdiggydog   Click Here to Email Hotdiggydog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just to add a little detail which may help I am looking at a '73 Convertible.

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blown 351
Journeyman

Posts: 44
From: Seattle, Wa. 98258
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 02-28-2002 05:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blown 351   Click Here to Email blown 351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Go with someone who has rebuilt/restored/operated a project car. What to look for, availability of materials or parts, $$$,time frame of completion

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 30097
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-28-2002 05:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M!

I'd say the most important thing is to focus on the body and frame. Lots of people get obsessed with the mechanicals. Chance are almost 100% that you will be rebuilding all that stuff anyway. Concentrate on finding a straight and rust-free car. Don't fall in love with a rust bucket.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

MCA Member # 47773

I once asked a man: "Who art thou, that ye may pass judgment upon others?" Then he added $75 to my fine...

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blown 351
Journeyman

Posts: 44
From: Seattle, Wa. 98258
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 02-28-2002 05:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blown 351   Click Here to Email blown 351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That's Great. Welcome,... I'm new myself.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 8516
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-28-2002 05:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Welcome to M&M!

I'd say the most important thing is to focus on the body and frame. Lots of people get obsessed with the mechanicals. Chance are almost 100% that you will be rebuilding all that stuff anyway. Concentrate on finding a straight and rust-free car. Don't fall in love with a rust bucket.


Welcome to M&M, and I'll 2nd what Steve said.

And have a price in mind and stick to it.

SCOOP

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65 coupe,1969-351w,RPM intake,Carter625,shorty headers,2.5 exhaust, Flowmasters,C4,open 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede.
MEM#1240

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html

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johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 3187
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 02-28-2002 05:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M , as the other guy`s said get your price in mind and stick to it, period. Try and stay away from overly rusty cars , you will have to deal with a bit of it , but , if it is in the frame rails, torque box`s or heavy in the fire-wall stay away, also the best advice I can give is research , research , research take your time , and , pick the brains of everybody here at M&M. They will guide you in the right direction

JOHN

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65 2+2 FASTBACK
68 COUPE
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK

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mvierow
Gearhead

Posts: 152
From: Bay Area, Ca
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-28-2002 05:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvierow   Click Here to Email mvierow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Its the toughest thing to decide but if you know what you want to accomplish with the car, then searching for something that gets you closer to that goal will be easier to pick. For instance, if I wanted an all original car, I would be very careful to make sure the car had its original parts, tags, etc. If I wanted a car for the strip, chances are I would want to search for a shell and build it up from there. Do you want to spend the time, effort and resources to 'do it yourself', or are you more interested in the end result? Answering those questions before you buy could save you a lot of money in the long run. And take it from Steve, leave the rusty cars for the experienced even if it means sacraficing some of the things you wanted. Having a rust free car with a 289 would be better in my mind than a rusted up car with a 351, even if you want more HP.. (my opinion).

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The Iceman
Gearhead

Posts: 1978
From: Shelton, CT
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 02-28-2002 06:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for The Iceman   Click Here to Email The Iceman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Worry about the frame and body, TRUST me haha
Like Steve said, engine/tranny/rear end wise, all of that can be changed up and probably will be anyways.
Wiring can be had for about $700 to do an ENTIRE car, give or take a few $ (trust me I know, I just rewired my ENTIRE CAR last weekend and the weekend before ) and things such as interior can be found ALL over whether it be used or new pieces that people never got around to using.

So Ill say it again, make sure the body and the frame are in good solid condition, because its an expensive pain in the arse to start changing specific portions (such as I am with my rear torque boxes and floor pans...and now my gas tank etc etc)

Look for a car from the south, more preferable the southwest. But Steve can talk to you more about that as I believe he bought his Mach 1 from California and had it shipped to Maine (correct me if Im wrong STeve )

other than that welcome, have a good one, and if you DO buy a Mustang and need some used parts, just ask me as there is a Mustang salvage yard practically down the street from me

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CrAzY Dan~
1965 Coupe "BeeBop" 200ci Straight "6"~2.77 3-spd w/Hurst Shifter~Pertronix Elec. Ign.~Flamethrower Coil~Flex-Fan~Clifford 6-2 Header~26" Smithys~3" chrome tips~'85 T-Bird TC buckets~'66 guages
https://mustangsandmore.com//ubb/TheIceman.html July of 2000 pics
http://www.motorcities.com/contents/01GF9250033520.html July of 2001 pics
http://kingroyale.50megs.com/ Feb. 2002 pics!
There's Nothing Wrong With A Little Six In A Classic Mustang! ;)

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mustangs68
Moderator

Posts: 16475
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99

posted 02-28-2002 10:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangs68   Click Here to Email mustangs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
3rd Steve!
Good metal to start with will save a bunch of bucks down the road for other wanted goodies!

Welcome to M&M..hope you enjoy the site.
sam

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73trials
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: New Orleans, La. M&M member # 1752
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 02-28-2002 10:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 73trials   Click Here to Email 73trials     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Buy it! We need another '73 vert guy. Seriously, it's a good idea to bring someone who knows these cars, and can point out potential problems. Parts for 73s can be tough, though not nearly as bad as IIs. If it's solid and the price is right, go for it. After all, they are the coolest 'stangs.

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