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Topic: How many of you run sub frame connectors ?
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70 Pony Gearhead Posts: 1815 From: Glenmoore, PA, USA Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-23-2002 03:41 PM
I know all you racers do....but how about for cruising and occasional runs at the track on my 70 that's probably in the mid to hi 300's in flywheel HP. Is it a MUST add on with the unibodies to keep them solid and handling good.... Or are they mostly a racing necessity? Thanks.... By the way...I do run a Monte Carlo Bar and an ex port brace....------------------ EDDIE D Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof Arrest Me Red [This message has been edited by 70 Pony (edited 01-23-2002).]
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70SportsRoof Gearhead Posts: 901 From: Orange County, CA Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-23-2002 05:11 PM
I haven't yet put them on my car ('70 Deluxe interior Mustang SportsRoof w/ 351) but it's on my add on list. Everybody I've talked to said they are definatly worth it and you'll notice the difference. Unibodies flex under load, the sub frame connectors will prevent that and give the car more solid handling. I'm going to install a set right after I rebuild my front end.
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Scott (69Mach) Gearhead Posts: 727 From: Walnut Creek, CA USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-23-2002 06:36 PM
Your car is pushing or over 30 years old. The unibody wasn't designed to last that long by Ford without starting to crack in bad places. Put them in unless you're on the concourse show track. You'll have no regrets.
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4376 From: Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-23-2002 10:37 PM
Ditto, especially what Scott said. Unless it's a showroom-stock trailer queen, WELD them in (or have them welded). You can buy the bolt ins, install them yourself, and then have a welder bead them in. HUDGE diff in the overall rigidity/handling of the chassis. Can also help reduce wheel-hop, but only well engineered traction devices will totally eliminate that. [This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 01-23-2002).]
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stang106 Gearhead Posts: 780 From: God's Country!... Port Alberni B.C. Canada Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-24-2002 01:22 AM
I was first sold on subframe connectors when I (actualy Roger-bfxcomet) welded them on my '92 5.0 with mild performance upgrades. Around here in the mountains of Vancouver Island the car handling difference was a night and day change. When pulling hard on the wheel at high speeds the car stopped creaking under the load, and it was a tight car. When I (and Roger) welded them into my '70 Ragtop, the whole car now reacts to road bumps; before you could see a front corner bounce up. I will never own a muscle car without it. Dave------------------ '70 ragtop Stang "I live my life 16.090 seconds at a time"
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Stang28965 Gearhead Posts: 450 From: Webster New York USA Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-24-2002 06:34 AM
I welded them on my 65, very good idea, My car has zero wheel hop now, before it was pretty bad, I really could not believe the difference, I also noticed the handling increased.------------------ -Jeff 1965 Mustang with a 289 bored .030" over. The 289 has a Holley 600cfm 4bbl, 302 heads, tri-y headers, Elgin cam .448int. 204deg, .472 exh 214deg. Eagle connecting rods, As for the drivetrain, I have a 4speed with 3.55 gears in the back.
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7DMACH1 Gearhead Posts: 2344 From: PHILA. PA. Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-24-2002 08:29 AM
I have them in both cars. RAY------------------ RAY . FLY THE FLAG, SHOW THE WORLD WE ARE PROUD AMERICANS!70 MACH 1 351C NOW 408 STROKER 4SPD. 86 MERCURY CAPRI 5.0 RUNS 12.86 @107 1.65 60 ft. 2001 LINCOLN LS V8 1997 MUSTANG SHOW THE WORLD, LIGHT A CANDLE. http://www.geocities.com/slariviere/7DMach1.html
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Clark Gearhead Posts: 674 From: Rowlett,Texas Registered: Aug 99
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posted 01-24-2002 10:48 AM
I have them as well but have not driven the car as of yet. If you are concerned with cost I bought the Comp. Engineering bolt on one's for $80 and plan to have them welded when I get the exhaust installed. They tuck up nice and you would not even see them unless you get under the car.------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof Deluxe
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70 Pony Gearhead Posts: 1815 From: Glenmoore, PA, USA Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-24-2002 10:56 AM
Thanks guys.....you sold me..... I will DEFINITELY do them... My car is a looker, but no concourse trailer queen...I drive it (a lot), depending on weather.. By the way...are the Comp Engineering ones the only ones that you can't see....or are most of them "Out of sight">?------------------ EDDIE D Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof Arrest Me Red
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mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 6677 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 01-24-2002 11:35 AM
There's a co. www.totalcontrolproducts.com that sells them along with rack and pinion steering. They are selling some made for cvs. On a cv, opinion, a section from rear of lower seat pan to rear torque box would get the job done, as that piece would complete a subframe connection. I looked up their ad in the latest Mustangs and Fords and there was a promo ad in it's place. Being in print advertising, that spelled one thing, to me.
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stang106 Gearhead Posts: 780 From: God's Country!... Port Alberni B.C. Canada Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-24-2002 05:57 PM
I use 1"X 2" rectangular tubing, thinwall. Dave
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Doyle Journeyman Posts: 41 From: Annapolis, Maryland Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-27-2002 06:35 AM
Will headers be a problem when installing these?
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4376 From: Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-27-2002 12:37 PM
Nope, headers/exhaust tubes run inboard of the connectors by quite a bit.
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cynot65 Gearhead Posts: 1178 From: New York Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-27-2002 02:31 PM
Sorry to jump in late but I just had that conversation on Sat. The discussion was not should they go on, but which type to use. the rectangular or tube type connector, and that the rect. one was a lot more rigid and the tubular one had more "play". Any thooughts about that topic? Tony C*------------------ 65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd M&M Member#450 It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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Rustang Gearhead Posts: 728 From: Clarion PA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-27-2002 06:16 PM
I think the Mustang's unibody is stronger than most people think. My '67 with patially rusted out floors, no frame connectors or roll bar, went 11.18 with mid 1.50's 60 foot times. I never saw any problems with the body cracking. Conversely, my buddy's '67 camaro shattered his rear window when he got in the 12's! I'd definitely go with the connectors, but in my experience the stang is surpisingly sturdy as-is ------------------ '68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124 '67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118 '69 351C Torino-14.90@100 '78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88 '79 Pickup 460 ET=?? http://www.rustang-racing.cityslide.com/contents/contents.cfm/712231
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Scott (69Mach) Gearhead Posts: 727 From: Walnut Creek, CA USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-28-2002 11:50 AM
I don't know about the Comp Eng. connectors, but the TCP connector and cross-brace is visible if you squat down and look under the car. However, they are realy well made and black powder coated so it doesn't bother me one bit to see them. They look like they belong on the car.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 25539 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 01-28-2002 12:58 PM
FYI, FoMoCo started installing sub frame connectors in Cobra Mustangs from the factory in 1999. They make the cars stiffer and smoother. Not an offensive ride at all. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02 Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 Part time secret agent license #0089 US Class Nationals link
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Fastback68 Gearhead Posts: 3053 From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-28-2002 05:52 PM
Hmmm, I've gathered a few pics of the basic rail-to-rail connectors and I think I'll get some made. It hardly seems worth importing them from the US. If anyone else has made their own, please share any tips. Thanks, Simon
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70 Pony Gearhead Posts: 1815 From: Glenmoore, PA, USA Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-29-2002 10:50 AM
Very informative posts...but now (dumb Question)...it seems there are different types of S.F connectors....length, strength, square or round, etc...... If I'm running leaf springs and lakewood traction bars on my '70, which is rarely raced, but driven hard...what should I look for that will be an "EASY" weld on, but still accomplish the mission. Such as product name, or description....------------------ EDDIE D Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof Arrest Me Red
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Robert K Gearhead Posts: 630 From: Nashville, TN Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-29-2002 01:03 PM
I've got the TCP subframe connectors on my 65 fastback and so far am pleased with them. Yes you can see them if bend down and stand on your head while looking under the car ------------------ 67convertible 289/auto 65fastback 302/4sp
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mustang68mustangs Gearhead Posts: 454 From: pittsburgh,pa.usa Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-29-2002 08:17 PM
It seems to me that some of the square connectors have to have slots cut in the floor to clear.Am I right about this?Also Comp engineering weld ons say the leaf springs must be moved inboard,Whats the deal? Can you buy the bolt ons and just weld them.I am seriously thinking of buying the Total control products for my 68 coupe.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 42859 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-29-2002 08:20 PM
There was a neat set that Mustang & Fords installed on a '70 Mach a few months back that seemed to fit real well. I think they were round tubes and you couldn't see them hanging down at all. Anyone remember what brand they were?------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC MCA Member # 47773 Of all the things I've lost, my mind is what I miss the most.
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mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 6677 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 01-29-2002 10:45 PM
You might be thinking of MMonthly feature- putting connectors in a project 70 at Mustang Central in Ga. www.mustangparts.com They welded in rectangular tube connectors solid, from front to back. The rectangular connectors look better, opinion. They seem to blend in better. Also, they can be welded more effectively to the floors
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Fastback68 Gearhead Posts: 3053 From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-29-2002 11:34 PM
Mellow, this will probably sound like me being dense, but I just wanna be absolutely sure, 'cos I'm in the process of picking materials for this project. You say ... quote: They welded in rectangular tube connectors solid, from front to back.
What do you mean by the word "solid" here? Do you mean exclusively? All tube? No non-tube bits? Simon
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mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 6677 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 01-30-2002 06:47 AM
Sorry for the confusion. When the owner of the co. installed the connectors, he welded them in solid, no skip welding, just one continous bead of weld on both sides of tubing from the front inner frame rail to the rear torque box. Seemed like overkill to me but it sure tightens it up!! Hope I'm being clear.
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Randy Wilson Journeyman Posts: 21 From: Portland, Or USA Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-30-2002 10:59 AM
I made mine out of 2"x2"x.125" square tubing. I have posted these pics before, but here are some pics. I will be securing my homebuilt traction devices to my subframe connectors. I have'nt built them yet, but plan to make something like the Shelby style underrider. The difference will be, I want to cut the ends and thread them for a spherical bearing so that I can preload my suspension (if and as needed). http://www.hevanet.com/rkwilson/sub1.jpg http://www.hevanet.com/rkwilson/sub8.jpg Don't mind the Tonka's and skateboards. The garage still isn't any cleaner, but hey, its dry!
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richard bohm Gearhead Posts: 373 From: tucson,az-luray,va Registered: May 2001
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posted 01-30-2002 11:25 AM
subframe connectors will be going on my 66 coupe before i put it the 300 hp 289 and 4sp. i will also put subframe connectors in my 64 falcon futura with the 170 six as i believe in them that much. as for material, you want a 1018 dom steel for easy welding and highest strength. i can hear the 4130 guys now, 4130 is stronger. yes but only after normalizing when welded. as for the shape 2X2 rectangular or 2" round works fine unless you are going full time racing in a pro catagory(if that is the case then why are you worrying about subframe connectors).
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 18590 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 01-30-2002 01:58 PM
Do they hit the floor on a 65.And if they do,do you just beat the floor more flat or what? My pops inlaw whats to make them him self he really likes do jobs like that.Can any one tell me how long they need to be for a 65 coupe.Do you make a channel where it meet the front frame to sit over,and on the rear where would you weld it to.And is it just more easy to buy them,what kind of cost difference is there.SCOOP ------------------ 65 coupe,351w,RPM intake,Carter625,shorty headers,2.5 exhaust, Flowmasters,C4,open 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Crager SS,Black Suede. MEM#1240 https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Ryan Wilke Gearhead Posts: 2058 From: Stanton, Michigan 49707 Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-30-2002 06:21 PM
Guys: Check out my ad in M&M's 'Classified Ads' if you're looking for some sub-frames..... Ryan
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