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  Putting engine back???

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Author Topic:   Putting engine back???
Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 456
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 11-24-2001 03:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was NOT a mechanic in my last life, of this I'm sure I raised the engine last night to put in the headers, then lowered it back. I just crawled under to reinstall the four bolts connecting the mounts to the block, but the holes don't line up and what's more the fan is crammed against the radiator. I figured, I'll just roll the engine around on the trolley jack until it lines up, but (surprise, surprise!) that thing's heavy! Is this the way to do it? Is this a one-man job?
Thanks as always,
Simon

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Boss Hoss
Gearhead

Posts: 176
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 11-24-2001 08:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Boss Hoss   Click Here to Email Boss Hoss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Simon:
It sounds to me like the front springs have relaxed a bit as a result of the engine's weight being lifted off of them. When the springs relax, the front of the car raises up quite a bit, and the car looks like it is trying to do a wheelie, which could cause the misalignment you are experiencing. Is just the top of the fan touching the radiator, or is the whole face of the fan touching? If it's just the top of the fan touching, then it's a safe bet that the problem is being caused by the relaxed springs, and you will have to find some way to weight the front of the car down enough so that the engine can settle back down into its proper place. Get a couple of big friends to sit on the fenders! The added benefit is that they can help guide the engine into place by listening to your instructions as you lie below the car (out of the way of the engine, in case something slips).

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

*1965 Mustang 289 coupe*
*1996 Mustang GT coupe*

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 9546
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 11-24-2001 01:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Loosen up the trans mount Simon. That will give you some more "wiggle room".

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 17955
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99

posted 11-24-2001 04:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Careful of that radiator! It slices open just by breathing on it!

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 327
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-25-2001 12:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Simon,

It sounds like you unbolted the motor mount from the block and not the frame. It will be very hard to align the bolts into the block without taking the mount loose from the frame. I would remove the mounts from the frame and then bolt them to the block, Then as Alex suggest loosen the trans mount and then move the engine back into place, If the motor moved forward alot then the trans mount is probably bad. If you are trying to do this with a floor jack it's gonna be tuff. You may end up needing 2 jacks, or a engine hoist on the front of the block and a floor jack under the tailshaft of the transmission to get everthing back into place.

The springs relaxing should have no effect on the motor mounts lining up unless the front subframe is very weak and the shock towers are leaning.

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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 456
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 11-25-2001 06:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys Ronnie, I think you hit the nail on the head. So I undid the wrong bolts, right? Next time I should disconnect the mounts from the frame, not from the block. I'm still sweating over this one by the way -- the story's not over!
The good news is the engine hadn't moved so much. The radiator had popped out of its mounts.
I'll let you know when I win!

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 17955
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99

posted 11-25-2001 07:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fastback68:
The radiator had popped out of its mounts.
I'll let you know when I win!

Yikes! Radiators don't like to be manhandled like that. I hope you don't need a new one before you're through.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
Christmas shopping? Why not use the Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore?

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 266
From: South River, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 11-25-2001 10:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Between the rubber mounts and frame mounts are two long horizontal bolts (one on each side). These are the ones you should have removed. Engines are a lot easier to remove and replace with only having to remove two bolts and realign two bolts.

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 456
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 11-26-2001 09:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Solved See other thread "Thorley headers in '68 tip". Thanks all anyway. Got some good info here.

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