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Author
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Topic: overheating problem!help!
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65mustang
Journeyman Posts: 93
From: Stockton,CA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 10-26-2001 01:08 AM
   
i just got my 65 289 back today with the freshly converted C4.it used to be a 4spd. anyway i was told that it was running warm on the test drives form the owner of the shop and when i was driving it home. it was gettin real hot.on start up temp is on H,and after a few minutes drop down to 3/4.no1 knows why this is happening because it didnt happen before i took it in there. the guy tells me i need to either clean the radiator and rod it or buy a new one. does any1 have any idea why this happened all of a sudden. they put in a C4 and dual flowmasters on the car. and what if i buy a new radiator and this still happens. would the extra expense of an aluminum radiator be worth it? will it stop from getting hot just with an aluminum radiator. o yeah,it is full with coolant,so thats not the prob. any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. thanks alot.------------------
65 coupe 289 .30 w/holley 4 barrel 650cfm, edelbrock performer intake,C4 w/shiftkit and B&M Pro Stick shifter, true dual 2chamber 40s.flowmasters,4 1/2 leaf springs.
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70 Pony
Gearhead Posts: 982
From: Glenmoore, PA, USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 10-26-2001 04:22 AM
Hey '65...I'm no mechanic, and you'll get way better answers than mine from the others...
But I'd hold off on the radiator for a while...I run a Milodon Hi Volumn aluminum water pump, a 160 degree Hi Flow thermostat, a coolant/water mix of about 30% Coolant 70% water, 2 bottles of Red Line water wetter, stock oem radiator and fan...and an oem FAN SHROUD. My Pony runs all day and night at 160...probably too cool..in 90 degree heat, stuck in traffic it will peek at the 190 mark and drop back down to 170 quick...
DO YOU HAVE A FAN SHROUD ??? I think they are pretty important, and I'd get the radiator pressure checked and cleaned b4 I'd buy a new one, and are you running the oem water pump..??
Unless money is no object...Go for the whole thing.
Good Luck and wait for more knowledgable answers please.------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red
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1trickpony
Journeyman Posts: 15
From: Escondido, Ca
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 10-26-2001 05:37 AM
Considering that this car was a 4 speed car, and I know this is basic but I gotta state it. If you are using the stock tranny cooling through the radiator the added heat from the tranny could be causing you to overheat. This is, of course, compounded if your radiator needs to be flushed/rodded. You would probably be better off replacing your radiator and getting one with an extra row/core. Alternatively, you could add an aftermarket tranny cooler and mount it on the front of the radiator without routing it through the current radiator.
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 4656
From: Pensacola, Florida, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 10-26-2001 05:39 AM
'65,
Eddie hit on several good points. Start with the easy stuff. How does your radiator cap look? Is it old and need replacing? Do you have a fan shroud installed? If not, get one installed. Have you looked at the inside of your radiator? If not, drain a little coolant so that you can see the top internal vanes in the radiator. Do you have a bunch of junk in your coolant? If you have a bunch of junk in the coolant and the internal vanes looked clogged, get the radiator rodded. Also check your thermostat. Is it the right temperature thermostat? Is it installed right? Is it old and in need of replacing? These are a few of the easy things that can be done to resolve over heating problems. Do NOT remove the thermostat and leave it out of the cooling system. This causes cooolant to cycle through your radiator constantly and will not cool the coolant properly. Hope this helps you out.Dave & Terri ------------------
Poison Ivy
'65 Fastback Modified 289 4V, C-4 w/shift kit, dual exhaust, styled steel wheels, 2.80:1 limited slip rear, rally pac, A/C
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 327
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-26-2001 11:17 PM
Since this was a 4 speed car I am going to assume that it had the original radiator that did not have the trans cooler coils in it. The radiator had to be replaced to with the conversion if the trans cooling lines are going into it. What did the radiator come from - is it used and what condition was it in when installed?
If the car is showing hot as soon as you crank it I would look for a wiring problem. Even with a plugged radiator it will take a few minutes for the engine to heat. It is possible the wire is pinched between the block and the bellhousing, or the wire was just damaged during the swap.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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65mustang
Journeyman Posts: 93
From: Stockton,CA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 10-27-2001 10:08 PM
the radiator was in the car when i bought it but i just got it cleaned and rodded yesterday for $107.00. anyway i put the radiator back and it still rides on the warm side. almost the same as before.o yeah, they told me thy had to dip the radiator 3 times and do some extra rodding to clean it. but for some reason this cleaning didnt make much of a difference. after i drive it, then stop for a few minutes and start it back up-it goes right to H on the temp. when i first start it,like in the morning,, it takes a minute and goes a little past half. when driving it stays that way ,in between 1/2 & 3/4.but when i come to a stop, it heats up to about 3/4,almost H. what does a fan shroud do?
how can i tell if the thermostat is no good?and will it make thta much of a difference?
also,im running a 4 blade fan,will a 5 blade fan make much of a difference? thanks for the help.any more would be great. i drive a good 175 miles on the weekends but now i want to start driving the pony, so i need it to stay cool. please help! thanks.
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65 coupe 289 .30 w/holley 4 barrel 650cfm, edelbrock performer intake,C4 w/shiftkit and B&M Pro Stick shifter, true dual 2chamber 40s.flowmasters,4 1/2 leaf springs.
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Fastymz
Gearhead Posts: 1026
From: Reno Nv
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-28-2001 06:15 PM
A shroud helps to pull the air through the radiator.Rather then a fan without a shroud pulls air from all around the radiator as well.So the fan works better with the shroud.
On the thermostat its best just to change it.If your not sure of it,they are cheap and easy to change.It can make a big difference.
Not sure on the fan it seems that a 5 blade will pull more then a 4 blade.
If the radiator had that much crud in it,you should fluss the motor as well.
I'd try a trans cooler 1st they are alot less they a new radiator.Even if the trans cooler dose not help alot it will help trans stay cooler.So either way it will be worth it.
My electic fan sloved almost all of my cooling problems.I think once I install a trans cooler I should have it made.The electric fan helped alot on my car many becuase I had a fan without a shroud before.
Hope this helps.Ron ------------------
65 Coupe with a 351w, RPM intake,carter625,shorty hedders,2.5 exhaust,Flowmasters,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
MEM#1240
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289 Rod
Journeyman Posts: 29
From: Laguna Niguel, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 10-30-2001 02:42 AM
Fastymz is correct a shroud will pull the air directly in front of you radiator thru the radiator better. In referance to your thermostat question you can check the thermostat by placing it in boiling water to find out when it opens. I recommend just getting a new one they are cheap, just like Fastymz said.
Oh yeah the whole thing about 4 blade or 5 blade, you want to find out the CFM rating on them. Them more the better.
Other things that could cause the problem....
Also check your fan spacing because if you blades are not close enough to the radiator then you won't pull as much air thru.
If your radiator is too small or your coolant flows thru your system to fast or not fast enough you will easily have cooling problems.
Check if your fan blades are pulling or pushing air.
You probably don't have a leak since you don't need to refil you cooling system.
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'65 Mustang Black/Black Pony Interior
289 4V 4 speed Manual
Weiand Dual Plane,AFR 165cc, Comp Cam Pro Magnum Rocker Arms, 3.55 Rearend
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65RestoMod
Journeyman Posts: 13
From: Spring, TX
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 10-30-2001 09:27 AM
Here is my .02. I was having similar problems with my car over heating so I went and bought a brand new radiator because I needed one any way and still was having problems. Try bypassing the heater core to see if that is your problem. Mine was clogged up and not flowing very well which was causing the temp to rise. After bypassing the heater core it ran cool as a cucumber. I never put a new heater core in mine because I live in Houston and don't need it. Don't know if this will help, but it is a quick test.
Jeff
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