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Author
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Topic: runs great but won't move (Pt. 2)
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 228
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-23-2001 10:43 AM
   
Hey guys and gals-Finally got my engine back together this weekend and am back to the same problem. It starts easily, idles great, will rev to and run smoothly to 5500 rpm (and higher probably), but when I stick it in gear, it dies immediately. This is a 302 in a 66 coupe. I'm not sure how to sort this out. I had the same problem months again when the motor first went in. Thought it was a intake manifold leak, and replaced the gasket (twice  ). I can raise the rear wheels, and they will spin in gear, but the drive train is obviously laboring. It's timed (12 degrees with vacuum line plugged), vacuum advance is working, and I have vacuum of about 10-12 in Hg at the back of the manifold (Holley Street Dominator). How do I troubleshoot this? Tranny was rebuilt recently (C4 w/shift kit and 2500 rpm? stall torque converter). Rear end was rebuilt at the same time (8 inch with 3.55 posi). Ignition (MSD 6A, Duraspark, and Accel supercoil) came off a car that had not run for 6 or 7 years. Carb is a Holley 650DP that I kitted in June. So, there are a lot of untried variables. Appreciate any help. I'm ready to drive this car again. JimO
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franklin
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: VA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-23-2001 01:50 PM
Sounds like something is wrong with the transmission after your raised wheel test. But I wouldn't have a clue what it could be. Did the engine and tranny go together ok or did you have to force it with the bellhousing bolts?
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 228
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-23-2001 02:11 PM
Franklin-
Thanks for the response.I had to fight the tranny the get it in. It's now leaking, btw. JimO
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 194
From: Oklahoma, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-23-2001 03:02 PM
Bet you trashed your trans pump...had it happen to me once. I quickly learned if you are going to drop the motor in you need to unbolt the trans and bring it back a bit and then sink the motor and bring the trans back up to it. Sinking the motor with the trans bolted in place on my 71 proved to be a costly mistake 
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 228
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-23-2001 03:18 PM
Actually, the engine went in first, then the tranny. (Thought briefly about putting the two in together- is that done with a 66?)Besides the fact that I was was rolling around on the ground under the car with the tranny, my major problem was that there was barely enough clearance between the bell housing and the tunnel to get the top two bolts in. Ended up using some longer bolts to draw it up. Moderate levels of cursing, but no real banging or excessive, physical force. Got a good leak though JimO
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 327
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-23-2001 10:12 PM
Jim, When you have it jacked up and the rear tires spining can you use the brakes and stop the tires without stalling the engine? If the engine stalls when you apply the brakes then the torque converter is locked up, this can happen if you do not get the input shaft splines engaged in the rotor and then pull the transmission into place with the bolts. The transmission should go all the way to the bolck without the help of bolts, if you have to pull it in then something is not right.
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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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franklin
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: VA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-24-2001 01:01 AM
Sounds like you are going to have to do the nasty and pull the trans again. What I usually do to have more room is let the rear of the engine drop down as far as the motor mounts will let it. This will help getting the trans back in. When you go to put it back in, bolt the tranny up and then use a jack to raise the assembly up into the tunnel. I hope nothing is ruined up front in the trans.
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 228
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-25-2001 10:19 AM
Darn! Puts me in a foul mood even thinking about doing the transmission thing again.Ronnie, with the rear wheels up, if I let off the gas it dies- haven't tried braking but I will. Once the tranny is out, are there obvious (easily described) things to look for or should I just haul it to a shop? Thanks, guys-
JimO
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 327
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-28-2001 09:51 PM
Jim, Have you gotten a chance to do any more checks on your car? Not a whole lot of checks that can be done after the transmission is removed, you realy need to have a idea of what is wrong before you pull it. If the converter is damaged you cannot tell anything without cutting it open to look at the internals. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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DaveK
Gearhead Posts: 143
From: Sterling, VA
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 10-30-2001 11:05 AM
I have to agree with MrXerox that your pump is trashed. When you reinstall the tranny, the bell housing needs to be up against the block before you start any bolts. If you have to pull the tranny to the block using bolts, it's not in right.Good luck.
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 228
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-30-2001 11:41 AM
Ronnie/Dave- Thanks.Got the rear end up this weekend and tried to check the converter in the manner described. Again, I could get the wheels to spin, but as soon as I took my foot off the accelerator, she dies. Other thing I noticed is that the leak gets worse when the motor is running. Anything else I can check before pulling the tranny? Appreciate the help. JimO [This message has been edited by project66 (edited 10-30-2001).]
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