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Author
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Topic: Which to buy first? (kinda long)
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65_289
Journeyman Posts: 64
From:
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-21-2001 08:20 PM
   
Well, my car is finally about ready to hit the strip. I still have some more things that I need (want) to buy before I can get near 12's, which is my goal. I have 4 things that won't cost too much, unlike the new differential and gears I will need. 1. A 3-step rev-limiter, (1 step will be set at 1000rpm or even 100rpm and activated by a hidden switch so as to make theft a little more difficult). I even thought about cutting the wires to my cigarette lighter, and making contact plates so that you have to take the lighter out of the holder to dis-engage the low limit. 2. Line Lock. 'Nough said. 3. Drag shocks for front and Rancho 5-way shocks for the back. 4. Traction bars. Probably Lakewood or SSM. The question is, which should I buy first? The car has pretty decent weight transfer. But the last time I "got on it", I got a little wheelhop. Maybe my used cheater slicks need less than the 35psi the seller put in them. I want to try that 3-step idea, so I can get good launches. Sorry about the length. If you are still with me, please give your ideas. 
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1965 Coupe, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cable Clutch conversion, 3.25 gears, Ford XB3 longblock, x303 heads, B-Cam, 9:1 comp., Ford Racing high-torque starter, Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, Accel 8.8mm wires, 600 cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock RPM intake, K&N air, Holley electric fuel pump & AFPR, dual 2-chamber Flowmasters, KYB shocks, 5-leaf springs, Chrome Export Brace, Griffen Radiator, Comp. Eng. subs.
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 1544
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-21-2001 11:07 PM
Go with the bars, the rest of it won't do much good if you can't put the horses to Ground.Mike
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65_289
Journeyman Posts: 64
From:
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-21-2001 11:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by kcode:
Go with the bars, the rest of it won't do much good if you can't put the horses to Ground.Mike
True, but I guess I should go run a few times and see if I even need traction bars. I might not need them now, which would save $125 or so, at least for the time being.
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1965 Coupe, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cable Clutch conversion, 3.25 gears, Ford XB3 longblock, x303 heads, B-Cam, 9:1 comp., Ford Racing high-torque starter, Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, Accel 8.8mm wires, 600 cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock RPM intake, K&N air, Holley electric fuel pump & AFPR, dual 2-chamber Flowmasters, KYB shocks, 5-leaf springs, Chrome Export Brace, Griffen Radiator, Comp. Eng. subs.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 15730
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-22-2001 06:53 PM
Go with the rev limiter. Without an engine, you can't have traction problems.  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!
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65_289
Journeyman Posts: 64
From:
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-22-2001 07:30 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Go with the rev limiter. Without an engine, you can't have traction problems.
LOL, true. But if you check my latest thread, I gotta go with a new radiator first.
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1965 Coupe, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cable Clutch conversion, 3.25 gears, Ford XB3 longblock, x303 heads, B-Cam, 9:1 comp., Ford Racing high-torque starter, Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, Accel 8.8mm wires, 600 cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock RPM intake, K&N air, Holley electric fuel pump & AFPR, dual 2-chamber Flowmasters, KYB shocks, 5-leaf springs, Chrome Export Brace, Griffen Radiator, Comp. Eng. subs.
IP: Logged | |
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