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Author
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Topic: what do you all think of my final combination?(long)
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-15-2001 02:23 AM
   
351C
-2V open chamber heads
-comp Cam roller rockers (1.73 ratio)
-Single piece stainless steel valves)
-Mild port work
-milled the deck .20 to raise compression
-chrome moly retainers, heavy duty locks
-screw in studs with guide plate assembly-hardened seats -Holley 750 double pumper(may be too big,anyone think I should go smaller?)
-Edelbrock performer intake manifold
-Msd 6AL Box with soft touch rev limiter
-MSD Electronic distributor
-electric fan
-3 row heavy duty mustang radiator
-Mellings High volume oil pump
-HEavy duty hydraulic clutch
-4 speed toploader w hurst classic shifter
-Custom high flow headers w/ turbo 2 chamber mufflers and 2.5 inch exhaust
-heavy duty aluminum driveshaft
-Ford 9 inch w/ aumbern limited slip posi differential and 3.50s
-8"s in the back and 7's in the front W/ American racing Torque thrusters for rims.
-Tubular upper control arms and lower control arms
-Adjustable strut rods and bushings
-Tubular tie rod ajusting sleeves
-Koni Shocks
-680 coils
-Sub frame connectors
-Monte CArlo bars(my bar that braces the engine compartment no longer fits however and I need to have it bent more to clear the distributor)
Other than that my car really is a POS..lol the paint job(some weird green color, sucks, and needs to be redone, and my interior makes it so I can still cruise my drunk friends home and not care when they puke in the back(For now 
MUHUHUWHAWHA!
Im in the process of Buying a motorcycle so I wont have to drive her every day and i can pull her apart and do the body and interior work(new doors, new dash, new seats, new carpeting, new paint job, new quarterpanel...ect ect...)
Ill have pictures very very soon, right now she is getting a new pressure plate put in, mine was bad from Mcleod, should have the car back tommorow.
AGain, thanks guys for all the help and any feedback or advice on how I could imporve on her would be noted and greatly appreciated.
Nick
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 175
From:
Registered: May 2001
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posted 06-15-2001 04:21 AM
what cam are you running?? what car is this in?? overall i like the set up as for the carb, answer the above questions and we can give you a better answer.
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-15-2001 07:46 AM
as asked above, what cam?
1.73 rockers, ported, etc, sounds like your going for decent rpms, it could be different on the Clevelands, but the Performer intake will limit you unless you have a low duration cam.
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-15-2001 12:12 PM
my cam is pretty hot, .510" intake and .536" exhaust for the lift. The duration I believe is 292/302 degree {214/224 degree @ .050 lobe lift} duration, 107/117 degree lobe centers. If that is too extreme what would be a better intake manifold for me? I actually just had this intake out back so i figured it would work well for a engine with better low end grunt since 2V heads tend to flow better below .400" anyways. But let me know if i should change intakes.
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-15-2001 12:19 PM
Oh, and the car is a 1968 mustang coupe
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 100
From: Oklahoma, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-15-2001 02:57 PM
Wolfgar, You might want to think about installing a oil restrictor kit and or a external oil line to help with the oiling system problem. I have a similar motor but with closed chambered 4V heads, single plane and a much bigger cam. Is your cam solid or hyd? One thing I have found out the hard way is that Clevelands either 2V or 4V like big solid cams and single plane intakes Let me know if that 750DP ends up being too big for you, I have a 650DP that has only been used about 2000 miles since bought brand new that I could trade you for (my motor needs a bigger carb) and can send digital pics of it if you like...
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-15-2001 05:15 PM
I was hoping Steve would respond, I'm not exactly a Cleveland expert, but I'll back pretty much everything MrXerox said.
single plane, or a dual plane that is better than the Peformer. Performer is rated idle to 5500, you should pull higher than that with a damn near stock Cleveland.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14658
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-15-2001 08:43 PM
Here I am!Hey, that's the same cam I'm using. It's pretty good. Makes good power from about 2500 to red line. Make sure you use single groove valves, and just like MrXerox said, use the oil restrictors. They say you shouldn't use these with a hydraulic cam, but I haven't had any problems. Also, pick up a hardened oil pump driveshaft. The Performer intake will strangle you at the higher rpms. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.50 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977 [This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 06-15-2001).]
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 175
From:
Registered: May 2001
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posted 06-16-2001 01:57 AM
i like your combo overall. you might get a single plane intake and run it back to back at the drag strip to see which the engine likes better, but if you like the current combo , it is good, stick with it.
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-16-2001 05:17 AM
I will try a different intake. I just started hearing a weird hard metal on metal clacking sound in my engine that increases wih RPMs. Since I run hydraulic lifters I ruled that out as a possibliity. I think It sounds alot like a wrist pin clacking against a cyliinder wall. if that is the case, god help me cause Im gonna have to pull the whole piston out to rehone the block. I wonder If since my machine guy put it in if he would repair it too since he messed it up...hmmm
but thanks guys for all your input for my motor
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 100
From: Oklahoma, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-16-2001 10:56 AM
It could still be your lifter preload not setup correctly...Might want to check your pushrods/lifers first but other than that I suggest you take the motor up to the guy who built it while it is still in the car and have him hear it...Oh, and check to make sure it is not just and exhaust leak too
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-16-2001 12:20 PM
quote:
Originally posted by richard bohm:
i like your combo overall. you might get a single plane intake and run it back to back at the drag strip to see which the engine likes better, but if you like the current combo , it is good, stick with it.
I'll agree, if its running good and you're happy with it, by all means keep it, but the Performer, unless by some magical touch of a Cleveland, is severely limiting the engine.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14658
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-16-2001 01:49 PM
If your wrist pin touched your cylinder wall, you'll need a whole lot more than honing.It probably is your lifter preload. Especially if you didn't machine your heads for adjustable valvetrain. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.50 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977 [This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 06-16-2001).]
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-16-2001 04:46 PM
Ya Im hoping it is ANYTHING other than the wrist pins(andd the honing is just wishful thinking). I would be very upset if my brand new engine got runed by a 25 cent wrist pin. Also, Steve, The heads were machined for an adjustable valvetrain. So I take it thats not a good sign eh?  Im bringing her into the shop on tuesday, Im prayin to the Ford gods till then.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14658
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-16-2001 06:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Wulfgar:
Also, Steve, The heads were machined for an adjustable valvetrain. So I take it thats not a good sign eh?
No, just that it might need adjustment. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.50 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-16-2001 10:59 PM
whew! thanks steve, ill make sure to tell you all how thios goes, I sure hope it works iteself out easily .
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 1317
From: Lusby, MD, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-17-2001 11:05 AM
Good luck!![This message has been edited by GTRocks (edited 06-17-2001).]
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-19-2001 03:59 PM
well?
did ya adjust your lifters yet?
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-19-2001 11:49 PM
I just had it checked out by a machinist...he said it was nothin from the bottom end, just some valve noise. but he said hed adjust them in like 1000 miles..cause i suppose from what he quoted me "valves are like kids, better to hear them then not to"...i dont know if i question the valitidy of that statement...pics coming soon!!!
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-20-2001 02:05 PM
a little rattle is better than having them adjusted too tight, it'll burn valves really quick.
but!
with hydraulic lifters, you should never hear noise.
I'd try to adjust it now, hopefully the valves just need adjusting.
how did you set them the first time?
and as far as waiting 1000 miles... whatever.
adjustable drivetrain needs to be adjusted properly, if its too loose it can mushroom out the top of the valve stems.
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-20-2001 03:15 PM
well, the first time they made noise we did a full turn on all of them and it went away. I suppose i could adjust them again to keep em quiet. I didnt know with hyd lifters you werent supposed to ever hear noise...and did you mean if they are too tight they will burn up quick?
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 8514
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-20-2001 06:44 PM
I like everything except the intake. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-20-2001 08:26 PM
quote:
and did you mean if they are too tight they will burn up quick?
yea, if it barely seats, little imperfections will let compression leak through the valves, pretty much like a torch...
you do know how to properly adjust the valves?
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-20-2001 09:12 PM
Actually I dont know how to adjust the valve..=(
but I can learn if you are willing to take the time to tell me =)and hey moneymaker, what intake would you go with? Im thinking about a weiand xcelerator. whadda you think?
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-20-2001 09:14 PM
Also, I have a little oil in my radiator fluid. which is weird. i dont think tis a craked block cause its just a little tiny bit(plus i had the block magnafluxed, honed, crack checked, balenced..you name it. And the head gaskets were well installed. I heard it may be my timing chain? Does that sound right to anybody? if so how would i go about tightening down that to prevent any more leakage?
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-21-2001 11:22 AM
proper adjustment is done while its running.
crank it up, back off the rocker nut until it starts rattling, then tighten it until it stops, then tighten 1/4 turn, some people say 1/2 turn. Either works fine.
rinse and repeat 
be forewarned, it's gonna get kinda oily...how much is a little oil?
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 100
From: Oklahoma, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-21-2001 11:37 AM
Its best to get an old junk set of valve covers and cut the top out of them. This allows access to the nuts and keeps the oil from dripping down on the headers and smoking you out...
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 580
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-21-2001 02:48 PM
agreed, we have a set here for a brand x 350, but I haven't hacked up any Windsor valve covers yet...
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-21-2001 09:40 PM
hey im running about the same motor in my car except with an autoant a torker 351 intake my heads r 2bbl woth a lot of port work and funneling to match up better to the intake my cam is way too small for now but it is a 500 525 lift and220 230 dur at .50
110 sep the car bogs a little the line but runs out great to about 6000 and dies down
i an also using a 750 dp holley which it takes it quite well:)
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Wulfgar
Gearhead Posts: 132
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 06-21-2001 10:49 PM
A little oil is apparantly, "trace amounts" i checked it today and there was no oil in it and my oil level is fine as well. ill get that beat up set of valve covers though, so i can adjust the valves without smoking myself out.
And the Torker is a good intake. cool cool, any other suggestions?
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 175
From:
Registered: May 2001
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posted 06-22-2001 04:35 AM
set the initial timing at 10 degrees btdc and set your total timing at about 36-38 degrees(not including vacuum advance). when you go to the drag strip add 2 degrees just to see what the difference is, but keep it at 10 initial for the street. clevelands can run hot so you might invest in an oil cooler and run synthetic oil after break in. i like pennzoil, quaker state, and castrol the best.
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