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Author
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Topic: Paint the engine compartment
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CRB
Gearhead Posts: 102
From: Raritan NJ
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 11-14-2000 09:10 AM
   
I am getting ready to paint my engine, engine compartment and headers and need some color and paint advise. I am planning on painting the engine ford blue but it seems there are two different correct colors, one dark and one light. Which one is correct for a 66, also what brand does everyone prefer. I have seen a number of engine compartments painted black- but there seems to be a number of people who think that it should be flat or satin or gloss, but which one is right and will it look dingy all the time? And lastly I need to repaint my headers- what kind of paint will actually last?thanks
chip
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 1358
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-14-2000 11:55 AM
Chip. Go one page over and scroll down to 68 engine color. It will help you. Pete
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 990
From: Lemoore, CA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 11-14-2000 06:01 PM
Chip, I'm sure some will disagree with me, but I think that the flat or satin black holds too much dirt. Ok, maybe holds dirt isn't the right phrase, but I have satin black in my engine compartment and I can scrub it all day and as soon as it dries it still looks dirty. I am planning on going semi-gloss or gloss next time.As for the blue, I think the darker of the two is correct.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14060
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-14-2000 06:36 PM
I like the Duplicolor 1606, it's a nice dark Ford blue.  ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773 Have rice for dinner, not transportation!
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bossman
Gearhead Posts: 110
From: Moreno Valley, CA, USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 11-15-2000 12:25 AM
chipYou can't beat good ol' Krylon #1613 semi-flat paint - as long as you don't use any harsh chemicals for cleaning your engine compartment (ie use only warm water and dish soap), the Krylon semi-flat will retain is proper hue for many years. Of course, like with any paint job, it all lies in proper surface preparation. You can't beat getting down to the metal and a good quality primer - even in the engine compartment - to have a nice looking final job. Unless you are going concours, the blue hue is a matter of choice. My 70 Boss for example is the light blue, but the "correct" color is the darker Ford corportate blue, but since I don't enter my car in concourse competition, I go with what I like. randy www.bossman-motorsports.com
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 1358
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-15-2000 12:16 PM
Gotta agree with the bossman. 1613. Sears had Krylon on sale a week ago for $1.99. Mustang and Vette freaks bought out every can! I got three! For clean up and freshening, I hit it with Jubilee or pledge. It gives it a low sheen. The nice thing about Krylon is that it can be touched up easily. It gets as close to the original as possible according to MMonthly, for what that may be worth. Other parts like pulleys have more gloss. Shock mounts, etc. also. What I say is only opinion. Pete
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 990
From: Lemoore, CA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 11-15-2000 03:17 PM
Maybe I need to try this Krylon semi-black stuff. I used Rustoleum primer and satin-black and just don't like the way it looks, like I described above. $1.99 a can sure beats $3.99 for Rustoleum, too. I guess if I just sand the rustoleum on there now it'll still have the same protection from rust. Hmm, another project to be added to my list, but it can wait for another day.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 1358
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-15-2000 03:38 PM
Sig: Before you put Krylon 1613 over the Rustoleum, do a test to make sure that it doesn't lift or wrinkle. They are disimilar paints and may not be compatable. Pete
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 1332
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-15-2000 10:52 PM
On my coupe I used the Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black, have to use only a wet rag to clean. Alot of soap will make it look hazy when it dries, but it is more durable than Krylon, my opinion. For Beckys convertible, I shot it with DP Epoxy Black primer and then clear coated it to a gloss black, who care about originality, it will clean up alot easier. As you get older, you always look for the easy way out....  Mike
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 294
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-16-2000 11:02 PM
Iv'e tried the rest, now here's the best! It's called POLANE, it's a industrial paint, and has a hardener which makes it impervous to fuel, brake fuild, even laq. thinner would touch it. You don't need primer, spray right over cleaned sanded suface, even bare metal. Ask for Polane "T" carbide black, it is a matt to semi gloss. You can control the amount of gloss by the amount of hardener you use, little for low sheen matt, more for a semi. They make two hardeners, one interiour, one exteriour. I have found the interiour works great, and is cheaper, about half the price. What ever you do, don't get this stuff on your skin, it sticks so damn good to anything, you will have to wear it off of you!! I learned the hard way years ago..lol
Polane "B" static black is like Imrom (High gloss) but half the price, it two uses the same hardeners. I swear by this paint. I use it on engine parts, frames, suspensions, etc. fantastic paint. Only available in gallons or 5's Hardener I use is V66 V27, and reducer is R-69 or Rk-69. Sherwin Williams is the only place to buy this paint, they will have to order it for you. They can also mix any color you want. This is NOT house paint, they have a automotive line, and industrial line as well. Iv'e been using this paint for over 15 years, and done dozens of cars, and thats the only way to go. Yes it is alittle expensive, about 70.00 for paint, that includes the thinner and hardener. You get what you pay for, Quality!! Spray can paint is a waste of money and your time! (Do it once, is doing it forever with Polane ;-) BTW this has been my secert for years, now you know...[This message has been edited by Gary (edited 11-16-2000).]
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