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Author
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Topic: Engine building
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67Stangboy
Journeyman Posts: 49
From: lafayette, indiana usa
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-01-2000 02:54 PM
   
I getting ready to short block my 289. I was wondering if anybody knew what the clearances are between the rods on the crank?? Also, I bought ARP main studs and was wondering how much to tighten them. It says just put the studs in finger tight then torque down the nuts. I dont have to torque the studs any?? Thanks for all the help. If you have any other tips or info for me I would be glad to have it. ------------------
Kit
67 Coupe
I-6, 3sp
289 on the way
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14060
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-01-2000 05:15 PM
Hi Kit, the rod side clearance is .014-.024"The studs are not torqued in place, because if you torqued the stud alone, you'd be jamming it against the threads and that's definitely not what you want to do. Just screw the studs downs to get as much thread in the hole as possible, then torque the nuts down. Be sure to use 10W or machine oil to lubricate the threads. The best advice anyone could give you is to keep everything clean. Remember to clean even the new parts. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 482
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 10-01-2000 09:28 PM
WITH THE ARP STUD'S THEY GIVE YOU A SPECIAL LUBE,YOU SHOULD USE THAT.
ALL MY MOTOR'S I ALWAY'S USE ARP MAIN STUD'S AND ALWAY'S HAVE TORQUED THEM INTO THE BLOCK
FIRST AND LOCK TITE THE TREAD'S AND THEN INSTALL MAIN CAP'S AND BEARING'S AND TORQUED THEM ACCORDINGLY,NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM..------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
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67Stangboy
Journeyman Posts: 49
From: lafayette, indiana usa
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-01-2000 10:07 PM
Thanks. I am going to use the lube that came with the studs. Thanks for the help guys. I forgot about getting a rear main seal. So I wont be putting it together right away now.  I ll have to pick one up at the local parts store. Can you recommed a good one. Fel-pro?? I plan on painting my block after I have it put together. How should I remove the oil on the outside of the engine before I paint it?? Thanks for all the help guys.
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 1332
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-01-2000 10:47 PM
Use good old hot water and soap with a stiff scrub brush. Blow the block dry with compressed air and paint away.Mike
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67Stangboy
Journeyman Posts: 49
From: lafayette, indiana usa
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-02-2000 11:27 PM
Anybody ever paint there lifter valley?? Did you use regular engine paint or something else?? Thanks for all the help!!------------------
Kit
67 Coupe
I-6, 3sp
289 on the way
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Nos351C
Gearhead Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 10-03-2000 02:20 AM
PAW claims they paint theirs with Rustoleum. Others I know use an oil shedding type coating. If you are interested in that, checkout techlinecoatings.com
hth------------------
Marcus
Fast, Reliable, Cheap.... Pick any TWO of these words.
68 Mustang, still in purgatory.
BOYCOTT EXCESSIVE MOTORSPORTS
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cpmaverick
Moderator Posts: 829
From: Auburn, AL.
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 10-03-2000 03:22 AM
I used Glyptal on all the cast surfaces of my 302.. Eastwood sells it: www.eastwoodco.com  ------------------
-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs
www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com [This message has been edited by cpmaverick (edited 10-03-2000).]
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1036
From: Austin, TX
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 10-03-2000 11:12 AM
I would go with the Glyptal over other paints. Surface prep is, obviously, critical, as you don't want that stuff flaking off inside you nice new motor do you. As far as cleaning goes, two words, STEAM CLEANER! Back when I was in high school I had a job steam cleaning forklifts. Nothing like 2000psi of boiling water to take off the crime! ------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 8393
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-03-2000 12:26 PM
FYI I have used Rustolium in my lifter valley for about 25 years now with great success. I clean the surfaces with carb cleaner first to remove all oil residue.  Alex------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html
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66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 482
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 10-03-2000 03:39 PM
I AM WITH ALEX,PLAIN OLD RUSTOLEUM IS JUST FINE ALTHOUGH HE HAS ME BY SOME YEAR'S LOL
I DON'T QIUTE HAVE 25 YEAR'S BUT I AM GETTING THERE  ------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
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67Stangboy
Journeyman Posts: 49
From: lafayette, indiana usa
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 10-04-2000 06:26 PM
Thank for all the great tips everyone. Another question for you. I got my rear main seal and was wondering if I should put in sealant or rtv on it so that it never leaks. Again thanks for all the tips on painting my block and oil galley. I think I ll go with the rustolium since it is cheaper. Thanks for all the help!! ------------------
Kit
67 Coupe
I-6, 3sp
289 on the way
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 8393
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-04-2000 08:23 PM
Silicone only the mating edges of the RMS ends and a very fine film on the main cap also. DO NOT glob it on, just a little dab will do ya!  Alex------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html
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cpmaverick
Moderator Posts: 829
From: Auburn, AL.
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 10-05-2000 01:06 PM
Remember not to paint any machined surfaces, as it will flake. The point is to smooth out the casting anyway, painting machined surfaces doesn't do any good. I painted the inside of my block and my main caps, cyl heads, everything cast, its cheap, does something, and looks cool!
Here's a link to a picture (don't wanna post to many directly on the thread)------------------
-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs
www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 14060
From: Saco, Maine MCA # 47773
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-13-2000 05:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 66351stang:
I ALWAY'S USE ARP MAIN STUD'S AND ALWAY'S HAVE TORQUED THEM INTO THE BLOCK
FIRST AND LOCK TITE THE TREAD'S AND THEN INSTALL MAIN CAP'S AND BEARING'S AND TORQUED THEM ACCORDINGLY,NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM..
That's the wrong way to to install studs. Here's what ARP specifies:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/media/main_studs.pdf ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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CRB
Gearhead Posts: 102
From: Raritan NJ
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 12-14-2000 10:18 AM
cpmaverick-what brand and # of blue paint did you use on your motor?thanks
chip
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66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 482
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 12-15-2000 10:07 AM
hey marcus, i have been painting the lifter valley in all my motor's for years with rustoleum, never had a problem ------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-61 falcon 302
have a great day!!!!!!!!
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