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Author Topic:   Looking for Suggestions...
Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-22-2002 12:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok Guys:
As you may recall, I posted on 3/12 that a friend of mine has a '79 1/2T Ford pickup with a 302 V8 and automatic transmission and wanted to step it up. The concensus was to stick with a small block so I can use the current transmission. It was also mentioned that the '79's were OE equipped with a 351M.

What do you guys think about warming over a 351M or a 400M for this truck? -- I'm thinking since the truck won't be raced or such, it wouldn't need all the "modification possibilities" that a 351W offers. It may also be that a 351M or 400M core may be found easier because of lack of popularity and yet may still respond well to a 4bbl carb, headers, lumpy cam, etc.

What do ya guys think - should I start looking for a 400M?

Would the current trans and radiator handle it?

Thanks for your advice,
Ryan

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 22951
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-22-2002 12:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You would need to change the transmission too, if you decided to go with a 351M/400 because it uses the big block bellhousing.

I'd stick to the 302 or Windsor, myself.

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

MCA Member # 47773

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-22-2002 01:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oh, %^&**(&^%$$#!!!!!

I figured the current trans would bolt to a 351M or 400M..... so I guess I'm back to either locating a 351W or simply rebuilding the current 302.... and depending on how much I'd have to pay for a 351W & it's vintage & condition, would probably determine if I'd even go that way.......!

That's for the information again, Steve!!

"I'll be back",,,, Ryan

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MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 2383
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-24-2002 09:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere   Click Here to Email MLariviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You can get decent power out of a 302,even for a truck. My friend has one that is impressive.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-25-2002 09:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK - I agree with ya on the potential of a 302. So what kind of mods would you guys suggest be done to it to "warm it up" without it hurting it's drivability.... I'm wide open.... Talk to me, guys!

Thanks!
Ryan

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MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 2383
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-25-2002 09:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere   Click Here to Email MLariviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve? You're my cam man! I would go with an Air Gap Intake, a good set of Headers,and a cam with maybe a high duration?

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-26-2002 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the input, Mike!

Great - I agree with the Air Gap (or maybe a RPM intake?) & Headers (maybe Hedman Elite's?)..... and a new 2.5" dual system to the rear bumper with a crossover.

I'm thinking I'd freshen the OE 302 heads with OE-sized valves & springs, check for straightness and valve job; boil, bore and hone the block, new oversize pistons, rings, brgs; new timing chain & gears, water pump, and oil pump.

1) What do you think about a carb (I'm thinking new rather than rebuild the OE)?

2) What about the ignition/distributor - any upgrade ideas?

3) What about a new cam & lifters (rpm range of probably off idle to 5000 rpms?).

What have I (we) missed....?

Should I do anything to freshen the automatic transmission (other than new fluid / filter)?

I'm not sure about getting into the rearend at this time; but if the $$ allows it, we might...

Let's get some more ideas & thoughts going here, Guys...!

Thanks, Ryan

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MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 2383
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-26-2002 08:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere   Click Here to Email MLariviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think I'd use the heads,with some port matching done. As for a carb,a 600 Vacuum secondary would give you the power you want,with some gas mileage inbetween. You'll want to match the cam to the rear end and the torque convertor. Maybe a shift kit,and a cooler. You are moving a big vehicle.

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Blown54
Journeyman

Posts: 8
From: Surrey,BC,Canada
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 03-27-2002 09:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Blown54   Click Here to Email Blown54     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with everyone. The one concern I have is the Airgap. They are a great manifold and definately increase power but don't forget there are no exhaust crossovers. If the winters are as cold in Michigan as they are here (I believe it gets colder there)the problem is icing the carb up. As a fix on our parts truck, we ended up throwing a insulated thermal blanket in the "gap" just for heat.
Fred

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-28-2002 07:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks to everyone for the input!

OK, here's where we are:
-freshen block
-AirGap or RPM intake with a 600Vac Holley.
-port match the OE heads & valve job
-shift kit & trans cooler
-new radiator
-headers & 2.5" duals w/crossover to bumper
-cam to match rear gear & torque convertor

Regarding what cam to use: I'll find out what the rear gear ratio is and get back here with that info. I suspect the torque convertor is OEM,,,,

Fred: Good Idea, but I'm not worried about icing the carb in the Winter. This is a 'fair weather' truck; stored inside during the salty & nasty cold months of Winter, so that shouldn't pose any problem.

Meanwhile - any thoughts on any ignition freshening or should the OEM distributor be fine yet?

Thanks again, Guys!
Ryan

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MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 2383
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-28-2002 07:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere   Click Here to Email MLariviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The Duraspark is just fine. I'd stay with that,just a tune-up maybe.

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1MonsterEffie
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: Gloucester, VA
Registered: May 2002

posted 05-25-2002 09:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 1MonsterEffie   Click Here to Email 1MonsterEffie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
you don't want a high duration cam in a truck, by the way. Get a high-lift, short duration cam for the brute low-end torque you'll want in a truck. High Duration cams are good for high RPM horsepower, because they give the valves alot of time to stay open, which is good for filling the cylinders in the upper RPM range but kills velocity at low RPMs. You could run that type of cam, but a stock torque converter won't cut it, and you don't need alot of stall in a truck, that would just create excess heat and would make towing a real pain.

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