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Author
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Topic: Ignition and Choke Questions
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-04-2005 06:25 PM
   
Hello - I am running a 289 with Hooker SuperComps an Edlebrock intake and a Demon Jr. carb. According to the carb instructions, they say to run the vehicle 10-14 before top dead center. Why? I figure the car would run better at factory timing... Also I have a new electric choke that needs to be hooked up to the stator wire off the alt, that way it is only hot when the engine is actually running. Well, I have converted to a one wire alternator. Do I merely tap into that wire? THANKS!!!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-06-2005 06:41 PM
No, that wire will be too much juice for your thermostat coil, a keyed circuit off the fuse box would be much better. Engines generally make more horsepower with the timing advanced as much as possible without detonation {pinging}. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-07-2005 04:32 PM
Thanks Steve! A fused circuit... can you give some detail in how to find one? I've heard of people running off the wiper line, but I know I'm supposed to be running of a hot wire WHILE the engine is running. Kind of a catch 22 because the car is not running at the moment. Any idea what 12v line I could use? Any general circuit? THANKS!!!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-07-2005 04:56 PM
Well, you want a keyed circuit that is live when the key is in the run position but not the accessory position, so that would leave out the radio power supply, but the heater motor supply circuit is dead in the accessory position, I believe. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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todmeg
Gearhead Posts: 421
From: sayreville,nj
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 03-07-2005 09:12 PM
for what it is worth... if all this becomes too confusing, go to a manual choke. i see you live in cruz ( i used to live in san jose)... sure doesn't get too cold there and a manual choke should work well for you. i have very few problems with my manual choke even in the dead of winter here in jersey. (just my 2 cents worth.)------------------
scott
todds' dad
MCCI nj state rep
1972 4door-250 c4
1970 302,c4, firehawks+ansens.
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-08-2005 11:59 AM
Stock is 10?. With premium fuel, start at 13?-14?. If you have no detonation, increase upward. Timing is free horsepower and will run better up to 19?-21? of timing.
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-08-2005 01:25 PM
THANKS GUYS... This really helps a novice. One last question for you all. I just installed my Edlebrock aluminum intake onto my 289. According to the FelPro gasket instructions
http://www.pickproparts.com/pictures/result.aspx?linecode=fel&partnum=MS901031%
they say nothing about adding silicone to the water ports, only to the areas that use the cork seals. Well, I didn't add it since I wanted to follow the specific instructions. My FelPro gasket has a special blue seal for each air and water port, so I thought the silicone would mess that up. Well, I torqued it down, and then read on another site the step by step instructions according to Edlebrock... they say to USE the silicone around the water ports! My question to you all is:
Do I need to use silicone and do you think I could reuse the existing gasket? The car has not been started, but the manifold has been torqued down. I'd rather deal with this now then later.
 THANKS!!!
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-08-2005 01:31 PM
Oh yeah... and what the heck is that o ring for??? I didn't see anywhere that it would fit onto?
http://www.pickproparts.com/pictures/result.aspx?linecode=fel&partnum=MS901031%
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-08-2005 06:44 PM
I would have siliconed it but I wouldn't worry to much about. It should be just fine if the surfaces were clean. Once a gaskit is torqued down it done. The O-ring looks to be a Distributor gasket? Maybe a Chevy put the kit together?[This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 03-08-2005).]
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-09-2005 12:26 PM
Once again thank you. I called Summit Racing last night, as I was a bit worried, and they said that the silicone was not neccessary for the type of gasket I'm using. Finally... I'm installing a Mallory LED distributor now. I hear its a bit of a process to replace the original distributor... meaning that I need to make sure that am at top dead center before removing it. Any tips here? I'n never done this on a car, but have replaced many on 2 cylinder British/Italian bikes... THANKS!!!
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-09-2005 08:21 PM
Before you start remove valve cover then rotate the motor until you come up on TDC then try to turn the push rods on the #1 piston until there both rods are spin freely.At thhis point you should be at TDC on the balancer. Mark the position of the rotor on the intake then slowly remove the distributor. Watch the rotor as to where it becomes loose then put the new one back in.
You may have to rotate the motor by hand to ge the oil pump rod to line up so the distributor will drop in. I hope this makes sence?
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-10-2005 12:38 PM
Thanks again! I am replacing the entire distributor, so I will do my best n marking the original rotor first. Funny, but any hints on how to manually turn the motor? I figure if I remove all the spark plugs it will be easier to rotate... THANKS!!! I hate to keep hammering on you, but any idea on how to adjust the kickdown on the C4 tranny? Is it supposed to come on (activate, or pull the cable) on full throttle? Seems that that is the only way it can work in order for the carb to access "full throttle" without the kickdown cable from stopping it otherwise. I had to change from linkage to the Lockar throttle cable and kickdown SS cable kit, as I have changed to a Demon Jr. carb.
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-10-2005 05:34 PM
As far as turning the rotor the only way is to turn the motor over. Take the plugs out and turn the large bolt in the center of the harmonic balancer. As for the Auto Tranny I Can't help much there, I'm a Standard kind of Guy! Or a Manual Valve body person.
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sixtyfourcaliente
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Santa Cruz, California
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-11-2005 12:47 PM
Thanks! FYI if anyone wants to know, I found this while scrounging around for advice:READJUST YOUR KICKDOWN LINKAGE
"Easy set. Prop throttle full open,
with cable unhooked (I do the front) press trans lever forward till you feel it engage, there should be spring travel slightly afterwards, hook cable back to connection leaving half the spring travel."
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-11-2005 12:49 PM
That O ring is for the distributor housing, where it goes into the block. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
IP: Logged |
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