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Author Topic:   1" Lowering of Control Arms
RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 05-21-2002 11:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
edit: omitted 'urgent'

I have a 1970 Maverick that I will be putting a 347 c.i.d. in soon. I bought the car as a rolling chassis, so I have no idea how it handled.

The engine bay (edit) HAS gone through its restoration (shock tower mod, welding up holes, re-wiring, etc).

I am also installing PST's Super Polygraphite front suspension (complete system). The complete front suspension is out of the car. I (edit) AM ABOUT TO START installing the new suspension.

I also have the Moroso Drag Springs to go with the suspension kit.

I was reading a few posts in the Mustang archives about lowering the control arms to correct their inherent "shotty" handling problems. (https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Archives/Archive-000020/HTML/20001007-1-002150.html)

It ocurred to me that if the Maverick has the same problem as the Mustangs, I should relocate them now. Also, it may help make room for larger tube headers (??)

If so, has anyone done this mod on a Maverick / Comet?

I checked Pro-Motorsports site to see if they offered a pattern to relocate the a-arm holes on a maverick 1" lower but couldn't find any information.

f.y.i. The car will be 70% drag and 30% street. I intend to run 4-1/2" wide, small diameter radial front runners.

Any help/comments/links from either Mustang or Maverick guys would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rick Book
Houston, TX

[This message has been edited by RickBook (edited 05-30-2002).]

[This message has been edited by RickBook (edited 05-31-2002).]

[This message has been edited by RickBook (edited 06-12-2002).]

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 05-22-2002 09:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ttt

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 05-29-2002 01:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ttt

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 05-30-2002 11:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Can someone answer this or put me on to someone who can help me?

I will be doing the PST install within 2 days - I'd like to learn more about the lowering of the control arms (ie., dimensions, instructions, illustrations, etc.) PRIOR to re-building my suspension.

Thanks,

Rick Book

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 05-31-2002 10:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
TTT (final request)

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37258
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 06-02-2002 08:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Geez, sorry nobody helped you here.

I can't see why you can't; the suspension is essentially the same as the Mustang.

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 ~ '72 Mustang Sprint ~ '94 F-150

MCA Member # 47773

"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
- Voltaire

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37258
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 06-02-2002 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
By the way, you do realize you'll get better handling, but at the expense of increased tire wear, right?

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 ~ '72 Mustang Sprint ~ '94 F-150

MCA Member # 47773

"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
- Voltaire

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-02-2002 09:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey how ya doing. I did it on my 68 Fairlane Fastback last summer. It was the best mod I made on my car since the CD Player,lol. Im not sure about the Comet. For a template, go to www.themustangshop.com they have a printable template and instructions, and also the alignment specs needed after the lower. Go to the How-to link, then down the list is the article. Good luck.

[This message has been edited by dark7068 (edited 06-02-2002).]

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-02-2002 09:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve, I will dis agree about the tire wear. I did my Fairlane, and not only is my car alot better to drive, but the tires last longer if the geometry is correct. I have absoulutly NO tire wear on my car since I did it.

Rick

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-02-2002 09:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rick, Rick here again,lol. If there is anything I can help you with, just buzz me by email. Ive also done it on my 70 Cougar.

Rick

[This message has been edited by dark7068 (edited 06-02-2002).]

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-03-2002 08:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Guys,

I was wondering if it was my cologne or something (no replies)???

Thanks for the links and contact names. I'll be referring this link often (beginning today).

I'll update with my progress (and questions I'm sure).

Thanks again Guys,

Rick (the "other" Rick)

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-03-2002 03:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rick, I think it was the fact that people couldnt stop laughing enough to actually type. Sorry, couldnt resist. Just remember to get the new holes for the UCA in straight, and take your time with drilling, the rest is easy. It will lower the car about 1 and a bit inches, so if you cut your coils as well, no more then a 1/4 coil at a time. I cut one complete coil out and it was like 4 inches off the ground, yikkkkes. Bought new coils, and its perfect.

Rick(dark)

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-03-2002 06:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dark7068:
Rick, I think it was the fact that people couldnt stop laughing enough to actually type. Sorry, couldnt resist. Rick(dark)


Rick,
Thanks for the coil info (I'm sure I would've cut at least 1 complete spiral out!!).

Now, as I scratch my head with one hand, my arse with the other, then regretfully rotate, what did I type that was funny (I am too sm'fart)

Thanks again,

Rick
(the OTHER-other white meat)


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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-03-2002 06:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I dont know why I said that, just cuz I guess. Anyways, lowering the car wont give you more header room, if anything, it will make it closer to the ground. If you want more header room by the shock towers, cut them down. Im a wealth of info,(no life I guess), and could show a site that shows abit on how its done, and looks real good if you need room to change plugs, etc.

Id like to see pix of the car if you have any handy, for my web site. You can email me some and I'll put them on for you, see, no life,lol.
On my car, I used Belltech dropped shocks from a GM, and used aluminum 1/2inch spacers on the saddles to lift them of the saddles, and used longer gr.8 bolts. They came with poly bushings, and have the correct travel I needed for the lowering. Consider shocks if you lower it and cut some of the coil of, it will drop alot, and stock height shocks might be adaquate.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37258
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 06-03-2002 08:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dark7068:
Steve, I will dis agree about the tire wear. I did my Fairlane, and not only is my car alot better to drive, but the tires last longer if the geometry is correct. I have absoulutly NO tire wear on my car since I did it.

Rick


Do you remember what you set your camber at?

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 ~ '72 Mustang Sprint ~ '94 F-150

MCA Member # 47773

"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
- Voltaire

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-03-2002 08:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's in the site I put a link up for, cant remember off hand.

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-03-2002 10:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dark7068:
Anyways, lowering the car wont give you more header room.

I don't know if I can explain clearly how I believe lowering the A-arms will help gain more header room but here goes:

The normal shock tower mods are typcially like this (not my car):
[img]http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/Tower Cut 2.jpg[/img]

The lower plane is located approximately 1" above the A-arm holes (in order to help maintain structural integrity).

From what I've seen on other Mav's (and that was only one time recently at FFW in Houston), the headers came VERY close to the lowermost plane of the cut-outs.

If I lower that plane (by the 1" we're talking about), I believe an increase in distance would be achieved between that plane and the (large tube) headers.

Anyway, here's a photo of my cut-out:
[img]http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/shock tower delete 1.jpg[/img]

I made a few changes to the 'norm' mods I suppose, by cutting a "V-type" notch out of the center 'rail' and bending it inward - then welding it to the new fab plate (again, to help gain more access room). I don't believe that particular mod will effect the structural integrity of the suspension. (after plates welded in on mine)
[img]http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/shock tower mid mod.jpg[/img]

Here's a (shotty) pic of the "Beast of Burden" I'm doing this to.

[img]http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/Rick's 1970 Maverick.jpg[/img]

I'll have a set of before and after pictures soon for your board if'n you want 'em.


Does "lowering of the A-arms allow more room for big tube headers" make sense now?

Comments please?

[And why won't the photo links work? ARGH!!! Help please Moderator?]

please cut and paste to see pics for now

[This message has been edited by RickBook (edited 06-03-2002).]

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-03-2002 10:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, but I dont see how lowering the suspension will make more room for headers. I guess I just cant see it, sorry. The tower mods will help lots for room, I see that, but not the lowering of the upper arms. You using an export brace and monte carlo bar for you car right, after cutting that much tower off, Id want more reinforcing. Looks good though.
I made up an export brace and monte bar for my Fairlane, it sure improved the handling big time.

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-03-2002 11:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dark7068:
Ok, but I dont see how lowering the suspension will make more room for headers. I guess I just cant see it, sorry.[Quote]

I'll show pics of it when complete. It'll make sense then. (it really will!)

You using an export brace and monte carlo bar for you car right, after cutting that much tower off?

Yup on both.

Thanks,

Rick

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 06-12-2002 03:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Rick, how's the car coming. Hope your having fun, and playing safe

Rick

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RickBook
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: Houston, TX
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-12-2002 11:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RickBook     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dark7068:
Hey Rick, how's the car coming. Hope your having fun, and playing safe

Rick


Hey Rick,

Actually, I haven't spent as much time on it as I would like to have. I have a 1990 Mustang that I'm working on also. I'll get back to the Maverick next week.

I'll keep you posted on the lowering - it looks simple and straight forward enough.

I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

Later,

Rick

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dark7068
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002

posted 07-29-2002 02:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dark7068   Click Here to Email dark7068     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Rick, how's it coming, been awhile since I checked your progress.

Talk again soon.
Rick

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lyle29464
Gearhead

Posts: 870
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 09-10-2002 09:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lyle29464   Click Here to Email lyle29464     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok question? I put very few miles on my mustang and do not care to much about tire wear Is their any settings I could use for better handling? thanks Lyle

quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
By the way, you do realize you'll get better handling, but at the expense of increased tire wear, right?


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