[This message has been edited by jwchatm (edited 08-31-2001).]

although i cannot respond to your question, we have some incredibly knowledgable cleveland folks here.....

keep checking back.... i am sure someone will come along soon and help you out!!

kaylin

I used the Crane conversion kit, and I really don't recommend it. It's a light-duty band-aid solution. My studs loosened up on me twice and that was in a F-150 that never went over 6000.

Machining your heads for 7/16" studs and guide plates is a good investment, IMHO.

Screw in studs is the correct way to put adjustable rockers on. And, for one piece pushrods, buy some good 3/8" .060 or .065 wall. They are lighter than 5/16 .080 wall, and stronger.

On my street car with a mild cleveland,(my version of mild is slightly warpped ) I used to run it with 2.5" pipes into 3 chamber flowdisasters. It ran absolutely no faster with them off, it just made more noise.

Also, I have yet to take apart a 2v cleveland that didnt have flattops in it. And for a cast piston, they are a good one, and tuff. But not near as tuff as the forged you now have.

In my opinion, you should go with a dual plane intake, I used an old F351 Edelbrock on mine. Experiment with different heights of OPEN spacers. Also, don't get too crazy with the carburetor. Maybe a 650, or a 700. If you go with a 750, use a vacuum secondary carb with a black spring. Start with the factory jetting, and adjust accordingly as far as what gets the car down the strip quicker, don't waste your time with seat of the pants tuning, get some real ET's and MPH' s at a drag strip. Also, keep your power valve. Use a 6.5 in the primary.

With your heavy car, and the gears that you are running, the single plane intakes will not work well at all. I experimented with a Weiand excellerator with this cam, and found that it worked OK, but I had 4.56 gears, and a 3500 convertor. The F351 had better 60 foots. I also didn't gain any RPM with the Weiand. There is nothing wrong with the Offenhauser intake, In fact I would choose it over the Weiand because of the fact that it will keep the velocity up higher,and the runners all converge toward the plenum a little better. I am talking about the Port O Sonic here. Don't even consider a Strip Dominator for this combination, unless you don't want any low end at all. I never cared for the Torkers personally.

The 2 1/2 inch exhaust is good, don't go any bigger. I don't know what headers you are using, but don't make the mistake of putting 1 7/8 primaries on it. 1 3/4 should be plenty. And 1 5/8 would be better in my opinion, but you usually don't find them that small for a Cleveland. The length needs to be around 38 to 40 inches. Keep the collectors to a absolute maximum of 3 inches in diameter.

I have never fallen in with the bigger is better crowd when it comes to setting up an engine. For the RPM range that this cam will work in (about 2000 to 6000 max) my recommendations will get you down the drag strip quicker. If you want to go with bigger cams and such, then you will have to re -think everything, and streetability falls off rather quickly.

I agree about getting rid of the FMX, if for no other reason than it will be harder to find parts for it. A C4 will work fine.

Go with the 4.11 gears at least.

The umbrella seals will be fine.

Why not use Moly rings? I use them in everything anymore. Just make sure that the bore finish is correct.

My combination ran 7.50's in the 1/8 mile with pretty much what I told you to do,in a 3300 pound '68 Mustang with me in it, stock leaf springs, and 4 wheel drum brakes included. It idled at about 800 or 900 RPM, and like I said had about 14 inches of vacuum at idle.

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'85 Capri
Cleveland powered
carburetted
6.95 1/8th
@94 1/2 MPH
1.49 60 ft.