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Author
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Topic: 2000 GT Brakes Part 2
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Wicked-Toy
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-01-2005 09:58 AM
   
I replaced the brake pads on all four wheels this weekend. Used the special tool to compress the back calipers as advised in my first post. The front calipers are dual piston so I used the old pad and a C-Clamp to compress those. The pedal is spongier feeling now. I bled each wheel and did not get any improvement. Anyone have a suggestion as to what to try next. The car stops, it just takes a lot more pedal travel than before. I can bleed them again, but I didnt get any air the first time around.------------------
Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1987 GT Conv. (Son's)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-01-2005 11:47 AM
You didn't need to bleed the brakes as you did not open the hydraulic system. The only time you should have to bleed your brakes is when you replace a component (caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder, ABS HCU, etc etc). What kind of brake pads did you install? Did you machine the rotors? Some of the "cheaper" brake pads take a little longer to set in and will make the brakes feel a little spongy. Also, if you did not machine the rotors, same result. You should ALWAYS machine the rotors, even if they're not warped, to give the new brake pads a "fresh" surface to break in on. Give the brakes a week or so to break in. If they still feel spongy, you should really machine the rotors if you didn't do it already. Just a reminder also. Make sure your master cylinder is topped off. ------------------
Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1.
MCA Member #61863 Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5. [This message has been edited by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER (edited 08-01-2005).]
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Wicked-Toy
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-01-2005 12:20 PM
I used the best pads that Autozone had. They were $36 and $39 per set. Semi-metalic with a lifetime warrenty. Don't remember the brand exactly but it was something like Duralife or Duralast. Did not machine the rotors as they looked and felt smooth. I bled the system to to be sure there wasn't any air induced by my retracting the calipers.------------------
Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1987 GT Conv. (Son's)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-01-2005 12:43 PM
You really ought to machine the rotors....OR....if you don't want to go through the hassle of tearing everything apart again....at least scuff them up with some emery cloth. As I mentioned before, you would not have introduced air into the system by just compressing the calipers. As long as there is ample brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, and you don't open the system, no air should get in there to bleed, as proven when you said you didn't get any air out when you did bleed them. Machine the rotors, drive for a week, and you'll be in good shape. One thing I forgot to mention....have you operated the hand brake following the repair? Just making sure it's working okay and that the rear brakes are adjusted properly. They should self adjust when you press the brake pedal.
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Sub Stanger/Oxford White 2003 Mach 1.
MCA Member #61863 Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; '95 GT-S 5 speed, green, wrecked and totalled; 1995 GT-S 5 speed, bright yellow; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed, 1990 5.0 LX 'vert w/ AOD converted to T-5. [This message has been edited by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER (edited 08-01-2005).]
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Wicked-Toy
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-01-2005 03:03 PM
Handbrake is good and tight. The master cylinder in fact had too much fluid as I had to remove some as the calipers compressed. Will drive the car this week and see if things improve. Like I said, the rorors looked great. I have put pads on cars before where the rotors were a lot worse looking and never had a problem like this. I thought maybe there was something special you needed to do with the adjusters or because of the ABS.
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 673
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 08-18-2005 01:46 AM
I was just reading my son's Haynes manual as we are going to replace his rotors and pads on his 2002 Stang with no ABS. The book did say that if you have ABS, do not let air get in the system or you will not be able to bleed it at home using the typical old fashion method. Something about a computerized version of bleeding is required.As you compress the pistons in the caliper to remove them from the rotors, the reservoir level will rise as you are forcing the piston to travel further into the caliper than usual. Sometimes you have to remove some fluid so it won't overflow, but you have to remember to put some back in after the pistons get back to their normal positions. ------------------
reliving youth [This message has been edited by exlocal (edited 08-18-2005).]
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