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Author
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Topic: I ***CANNOT*** solve this brake problem!
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Boss Hoss
Gearhead Posts: 223
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-11-2003 03:08 PM
   
OK, here is stupid Andy again, with another elementary problem...I am trying to replace the rear disc brake pads on my 1996 Mustang GT. I have siphoned off some of the brake fluid in my master cylinder. The master
cylinder fluid container is about 1/2 full. I have the proper tool for screwing in the piston on the rear caliper so it can
fit over the new brake pads...BUT...I CANNOT make the caliper piston compress! I sit there and rotate and rotate and rotate the piston but it just goes around
in circles! It is NOT screwing into the caliper. It is just rotating around! I am thinking of draining the entire brake system so that the calipers will
hopefully be loose enough to work with...but I don't want to do this if I can
avoid it! I sure wish I could use a "C" clamp but I know that it is not
appropriate for my brake system. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?????????????????? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
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*andy* ([email protected]) also known as...***Boss Hoss*** *1965 Mustang 289 coupe*
*1996 Mustang GT coupe*
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RADRIDE
Gearhead Posts: 292
From: Va.Beach, Va.
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-12-2003 11:59 AM
I know its a stupid question , but are you turning it the right direction.I did my 94 GT and had no problems as long as you have right tool.
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1079
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-12-2003 03:32 PM
Andy,
As a Ford tech who does alot of brakes, I will be the first to tell you that those rear brake calipers are a pain. It sounds like you're doing it right, you just need to exert MORE PRESSURE as you're turning that piston clockwise. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP, YOU'LL BREAK THE CALIPER!! Trust me, it'll go, you just have to work at it. You don't need to drain brake fluid from the master cylinder....that won't help out, and may make things tougher for you in the long run if you take out too much, then get air in the system. You didn't mention which tool you're using as there are a couple of different ones. A "cheap" one, and of course a more expensive one. The one I use uses a threaded bolt with the tool at the end that has two nubs that fit into the divots on that piston, and then uses a bar against the caliper to compress inward as you're turning with the ratchet. It's a little hard to describe, but it's the easier one to use. Then there's the cheap one that looks like a little square box that's built for several different applications that just mounts onto the end of a 3/8 extension. If that's the one you're using, then you REALLY have to press hard with your brute strength while you're ratcheting with the ratchet. Good luck with it, and remember.....PUSH HARD as you're turning.------------------
Sub Stanger/1990 LX 5.0 convertible;
2003 Mach 1 (on order!!) Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; 2 '95 GT 5 speeds, totalled first one; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed. [This message has been edited by SUBMARINER MUSTANGER (edited 01-12-2003).]
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brockjoe
Gearhead Posts: 961
From: Sioux City, Iowa
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 01-12-2003 10:18 PM
open the bleeder screw wile compresing, pushing fluid backwards thru the m/c is not recomended------------------
Joe
71 Coupe
302 w/2x4
73 Coupe parts car.
Boycott NASCAR
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Rory McNeil
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-13-2003 01:57 AM
As Sub Stanger noted, trying to wind in the pistons on many different cars with rear disc brakes with integral park brake mechanisms can be a real pain using just the "cube" tool. At work we use a Snap On kit, which fits most cars, and as he noted, it uses a threaded plate inside the caliper casting to push the piston in as it rotates. I`ve had major troubles with rear calipers on late model VW Jetta`s, like you, they would turn , but not retract. Borrowed this tool, bam, both sides in within 5 minutes. Personally, as a dealership mechanic, we never open the bleeders while pushing back pistons, never had a problem.------------------
78 Fairmont 428 4 speed 10.20@130mph
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA Stocker under construction, 302 5 speed
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1079
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-19-2003 11:39 AM
Well???? Any status??------------------
Sub Stanger/1990 LX 5.0 convertible;
2003 Mach 1 (on order!!) Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; 2 '95 GT 5 speeds, totalled first one; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed.
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Boss Hoss
Gearhead Posts: 223
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-19-2003 06:19 PM
Hi, Submariner (and anyone else who has been following this thread):The status is that the rear brakes are finished and doing fine!  I have learned that those cheap "cube" shaped caliper piston tools are NO good. You really need to use the tool that looks similar to the standard disc brake pad spreader but also rotates the piston back into place. I was able to locate one of these tools (after much searching), and the whole job was done in less than 10 minutes! It just goes to show that every job is easier when you use the RIGHT tool. THANKS TO EVERYONE for all of your help! ------------------
*andy* ([email protected]) also known as...***Boss Hoss*** *1965 Mustang 289 coupe*
*1996 Mustang GT coupe*
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SUBMARINER MUSTANGER
Gearhead Posts: 1079
From: Grandview, Missouri
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-24-2003 08:52 AM
COOL! Another satisfied mustanger!------------------
Sub Stanger/1990 LX 5.0 convertible;
2003 Mach 1 (on order!!) Past Mustangs: '84 GT 5-speed; '91 GT auto; '70 M-code Mach 1, grabber yellow; 2 '95 GT 5 speeds, totalled first one; '94 6-banger, wifes; '89 LX 5.0 vert, '90 LX 5.0 hatch, '69 M-code Mach 1, 4 speed.
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