http://www.chassisengineering.com/

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Originally posted by Daniel Jones:
The adjustable upper control arms permit changing the pinion alignment. On my car, with non-stock springs, lower control arms, motor and transmission mounts, etc. my pinion was no longer in alignment (parallel to the output of the transmission), so I had to get adjustable uppers. I'd wait until the rest of the modifications are complete to see if they are needed.

Dan Jones

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It's my daily driver '87 Mustang GT. Chassis and suspension basics are:

Global West caster/camber plates (street settings of 1 degree negative
camber and maximum symmetric caster)
polyurethane sway bar and endlink bushings
Ford Motorsport B springs (stiffer and lowered about an inch from stock)
Bilstein gas struts and shocks
subframe connectors (welded-in)
4 point G-load brace (bolt-in)
Ford Motorsport chassis stiffening kit (essentially a kit containing
the reinforcements and bracing from convertible Mustangs, welds and
bolts-in but no longer available through the FRPP catalog)
HPM Megabyte Jr. control arms (probably would have been just as effective
to install poly bushings in the stock arms)
Steeda adjustable upper control arms (with polyurethane bushings)
Prothane polyurethane grease (Teflon based and very sticky, absolutely
the best grease I've used on poly bushings)
rebuilt 8.8" trak-loc with Moser axles
heim joint in place of steering coupler
Ford Motorsport aluminum driveshaft
15:1 high effort steering rack (standard issue)
stock '87 sway bars (1 5/16" front, 0.83" rear)
Bumpsteer kit (offset rack bushings and T-bird outer tie rods)

It is a street only car (coming up on 160K miles) so I'm not constrained by
any specific class rules, just my wallet. Whenever I get bored with the
car or something needs repair or replacing, I usually upgrade.

> Well, i have 1 1/2 BBK springs and i will be using a 205-50-15. ( thats
> a long story)

Hmmm, tires are arguably the single most important part of making a car
handle well and 205's are very narrow for a car that weighs as much as
a Mustang. I've noticed a lot of difference in the way the car behaves,
depending upon the specific tires used. At the same time I put the rear
control arms on, I installed Firestone Z-rated rain tires and the car
turned into a rear oversteering pig. I just couldn't keep the back end
under control when accelerating out of tight low speed corners. I thought
it was the 4 link binding until I tried a different set of tires (Dunlops).
With no other chassis changes, all of a sudden, the back end was staying
put. The Firestones just didn't have enough grip to turn and accelerate
at the same time. The Dunlops did so the back end would stay planted.
The 4 link rear is certainly a compromise and there is some 4 link binding
going on but good tires help to mask it. The proper solution is a torque
arm or a 3 link but that's not in the plan at the moment. If contemplating
a 3 link or torque arm, be aware they will take a very different spring
rate, shock valving, and sway bar stiffness.

I check in every now and again. What's up?