Grassroots Motorsports $2003 Challenge Rules

This Challenge is designed and run as an editorial event for a privately owned magazine. As such, the rules and event should be taken with a certain spirit in mind. In other words, all entrants should play well with others. It will make the event much more pleasant for all of those involved.

Production-based passenger cars only. No kit cars, dune-buggies or formula-type cars will be allowed. No Zambonis will be allowed to enter.

Cars must be road-worthy, meaning basic street equipment must be present: functioning headlights, windshields, working brake lights, working horn and DOT-approved tires. Non-DOT-legal slicks are allowed at the drag strip, but must be replaced by DOT-legal tires for the autocross competition due to safety reasons. All major body panels must be present. Interiors may be gutted, although the basic dashboard must remain. Windows may be replaced with clear plastic.

Cars do not have to be built for any recognized sanctioned race class. Nitrous oxide, forced induction and radical engine swaps are permitted. (As per SCCA rules, nitrous oxide may not be used at the autocross event.)

All cars must pass a SCCA Solo II safety inspection. Items checked will include throttle return spring, battery tie down, lug nuts, seat belts, brake pedal pressure and the overall soundness of the car. (Stock components in good working order will pass.)

Cars must also meet all NHRA safety regulations. This includes, in addition to the items required by the Solo II rules, the presence of front, side and rear windows. Open-top cars may run if the driver is wearing arm restraints and approved seat belts. All cars capable of running 11.99 or better must have a NHRA legal rollcage, while open cars capable of running 13.99 or better must have a NHRA legal cage. All cars must also feature a working tail light.
All builders shall spend no more than $2003 on their cars. All parts used at the event (including multiple sets of tires) shall be part of that $2003 budget. Parts that are not used may be sold up to the initial cost of the car. In other words, if you buy a $500 challenge car, you can recoup up to $500 of your budget by selling parts. (If you do turn a profit on selling parts off the car, we suggest you take your significant other out to dinner to compensate them for having a $2003 car hanging around the house.)

Entrants must show up to the competition with complete documentation totaling, at most, $2003. Entrants must bring receipts or verifiable proof for each item on the car, including the car itself. This information will be available at registration for all entrants to view.

If parts or vehicles are already owned by the competitor, they must be figured into the budget at fair market value at today's prices.

Parts that are given to the competitor by a company or person must be figured into the budget at fair market value. Sponsorships are allowed, but any product or service that is used in building the car must be figured into the $2003 budget.

Parts cars may be purchased. Parts that are not used may be sold up to the initial cost of the car. In other words, if you buy a $500 parts car, you can recoup up to $500 of your budget by selling parts. (If you do turn a profit on selling parts off the car, we suggest you take your significant other out to dinner to compensate them for having a parts car hanging around the house.)

Any car may be protested by another entrant. The entrant who is questioning the budgetary legality of another car shall present their case and a protest fee of $50 to the Independent Council. The Independent Council will rule on the car. If the Council says the car is legal, then the protest is dropped and the protest fee is forfeited. If the Council says the car is not legal, then the owner has two choices: run for exhibition only or go home. In this case, the protest fee would be returned.

The ruling of the Independent Council shall be binding and is not open to dispute. The Independent Council will be selected by the GRM office staff before the event. All protest intentions must be presented to the Independent Council by the end of the first day of competition.

Broken parts may be replaced at the event on an emergency basis, but penalty points may be awarded if the total value exceeds the limit of $2003.

Past Challenge cars may be entered. Past winners will automatically be evaluated by the Independent Council.

Past Challenge cars and their parts cannot be sold and repurchased in an effort to depreciate their value for budget purposes.

If parts are sold off the past Challenge car, the amount "credited" to the budget cannot exceed A) fair market value AND B) must meet all other challenge rules (ie, if you sold $300 worth of parts off of your $300 car for the last challenge, you can't credit yourself $200 for a bumper that you took off for the upcoming challenge...as you've already credited yourself the maximum amount per previous challenge budgeting).

Tires and brake pads, if they are worn out, can be replaced up to the value that they were originally listed at for the previous challenge (ie: $200 tires can be replaced with up to $200 tires)

Wristbands will be administered to all paid entrants and banquet attendees. These wristbands must be worn at all times. No exceptions.

The GRM staff reserves the right to make any changes, additions or adjustments to these rules at any time.

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1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/rm302boss.html

The rules seem to rely very heavily on the honor system.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

See my reply to your connectors post. Get that book it will be very helpful.

John

Rene, I would say the 3.55's. You wouldn't want to much hook going around a turn. Like your buddies AC Cobra.

Torque is made by combustion pressure, pressure in a fixed cylinder size is increased by either getting more intake charge per intake stroke (More efficient cylinder heads) or by increasing the dynamic cylinder pressure before ignition (a function of cam timing and static compression ratio)

www.toohighpsi.com

I second John's suggestion about getting the Mustang Performance Handbook; Vol. II. Great info on autocrossing, street, or strip chassis set-ups. Lays out the plans on how to build full-length subframe connectors, among lots of other things.

quote:

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Originally posted by Kyle:
Well, my take on this subject is go with a power adder. In particular, a turbocharger or two. Turbos make a ton of torque and use a small cam to do it. Price wouldn't be all that bad, either. Get a couple of junkyard turbos- there's a yard around here that charges $16.50 each for any turbo. You use the BBK headers that you have, and as long as you or somebody you know is handy with a welder, you can fab the intake tubing yourself. Thats what I would do. Look here:

www.toohighpsi.com

I second John's suggestion about getting the Mustang Performance Handbook; Vol. II. Great info on auto crossing, street, or strip chassis set-ups. Lays out the plans on how to build full-length sub frame connectors, among lots of other things.

Just my $.02

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quote:

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Originally posted by rm302 boss:
...i ordered both the first and the second of those books... Lets hope that they what every one says they are..
Rene

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Were you happy with the book purchase?
Did they help you very much?

-look for adjustable front struts at swap so you can adjust for drag and turns.
-look for fiberglass hood at swap
-remove ALL unecessary crap. wiring,vacuum,a/c,heater box and components,carpet,sound deadener etc. etc.
-power adder, definately go with a used nitrous system from a swap
-upgrade those crappy front discs with later model units
-replace all rubber with poly bushings, especially rear suspension
-weld and box your torque boxes
-box your stock lower control arms
-adjustable upper control arms (preferably double adjustable)
-weld your rearend to make it a locker
-install air bags in both rear springs (use right side for 1/4 mile and both for turns)
-remove front bumper and reinforce bumper cover with tubing and great stuff foam
-remove crash bar from doors
-check and double check U joints
-dont forget driveshaft loop
-for the front springs you might want to get some 4 cylinder coils. they will help you transfer better off the line and for turns you can make up some real tight limiters with coil blocks
-maybe some quick disconnects for your front anti sway bar